Cappy's f32 rehab

[Captrichc]

Its definitely strong. Trying to figure out hiw to get the new gas tanks in now

[Captrichc]

New tanks are on the boat. I didnt say they were installed yet.... lol. I need to make a craddle for them and im going to have to raise them off if the hull a little bit.

[oil&water]

Moving right along Cap!

[Captrichc]

Measured the new fuel tanks for the craddles. Ordered the marine ply wood and started measuring for the floor.

[Captrichc]

Ok ran into an issue with the water tank. I had to remove the locations where the fill and vent fittings were for the tanks. Replafed the wood top that had entire box of screws in with 3/4 pvc sheeting. And is now centered. Will post pics in a few.

[Captrichc]

Water tank

[captainmaniac]

How did you figure out which screws were holding the tank in and which were holding it together, or did you just yank 'em all and figure it out later?

[Captrichc]

I used a sawzall and cut between the wood and tank. once the heads were cut off the tank just lifted out. I used goof off to clean off the goop that was in between the wood and tank. Then went to HD and got 3/4 pvc board. Calked and evenly spaced the SS screws. The tank is back in the boat now

[Captrichc]

Cut new 1.5 in fill lines. Cut the 3/8 fuel lines. Tomorrow i will cut the 5/8 vent line. And finish installi g the new tanks. Once thats done i will start laying the new plywood.

[captainmaniac]

I used a sawzall and cut between the wood and tank. once the heads were cut off the tank just lifted out. I used goof off to clean off the goop that was in between the wood and tank. Then went to HD and got 3/4 pvc board. Calked and evenly spaced the SS screws. The tank is back in the boat now

Just spent 10 minutes trying to figure out how you could do that, then clued in that you are doing this with fuel tanks removed. Makes muuuuuch more sense now! Guess I can't really do that with my fuel tanks still in place. And I am NOT pulling them just to pull the water tank!

[mikeandanne]

I used a sawzall and cut between the wood and tank. once the heads were cut off the tank just lifted out. I used goof off to clean off the goop that was in between the wood and tank. Then went to HD and got 3/4 pvc board. Calked and evenly spaced the SS screws. The tank is back in the boat now

Just spent 10 minutes trying to figure out how you could do that, then clued in that you are doing this with fuel tanks removed. Makes muuuuuch more sense now! Guess I can't really do that with my fuel tanks still in place. And I am NOT pulling them just to pull the water tank!

There were only 4 long screws holding the tank in on our 78, the balance were all shorter, just holding the lid to the tank....was a snap to remove...drill gun and back out screws, a few screws heads were buried but easy to find, pry tank out from between stringers depending on the fit, really only a few minutes and not heavy at all.

[captainmaniac]

There were only 4 long screws holding the tank in on our 78, the balance were all shorter, just holding the lid to the tank....was a snap to remove...drill gun and back out screws, a few screws heads were buried but easy to find, pry tank out from between stringers depending on the fit, really only a few minutes and not heavy at all.

How can you identify which of the 100 screws are the 4 that really need to come out?

[Captrichc]

There were only 4 long screws holding the tank in on our 78, the balance were all shorter, just holding the lid to the tank....was a snap to remove...drill gun and back out screws, a few screws heads were buried but easy to find, pry tank out from between stringers depending on the fit, really only a few minutes and not heavy at all.

How can you identify which of the 100 screws are the 4 that really need to come out?

I would take a fine knife maybe in between the stringer and tank. Try to feel for the screws then kind of eyeball the holes in top.

[captainmaniac]

I would take a fine knife maybe in between the stringer and tank. Try to feel for the screws then kind of eyeball the holes in top.

Hard to get a fine knife into that gap given very little distance between that and fuel tanks. Also knife easily hung up on coarse fibreglass weave on top of stringers... Previously tried using a piece of fine but firm wire (from sprinkler system flags - bent 90 degrees) as a feeler but couldn't really detect 'real' from 'false' hits as the plywood/tank are tight to the tops of the bulkheads. The wire dragged pretty much the entire length of the sides.

I want to pull the tank to re-seal around the edges (a couple of years of indoor heated storage and I think things have contracted and broken seal) - when I fill the tank it just pisses around the edges when full as opposed to water coming out of its vent. I tried an epoxy sealer and applied somewhat blindly to where it was needed along the sides (using dental mirror to see where the leaks were coming from) and aft end, but impossible to get to the forward end because of how close it is to the bulkhead. Areas I sealed were okay for a year, then a few more leaks showed up again the next year. Alternative is to replace it (40 years old so who knows what gunge is inside of it so maybe not a bad idea), but still have to get it out to do that!

Anyways... don't want to hijack the thread. Had just hoped I could get a quick and simple answer while people were talking about it...

[Captrichc]

I would take a fine knife maybe in between the stringer and tank. Try to feel for the screws then kind of eyeball the holes in top.

Hard to get a fine knife into that gap given very little distance between that and fuel tanks. Also knife easily hung up on coarse fibreglass weave on top of stringers... Previously tried using a piece of fine but firm wire (from sprinkler system flags - bent 90 degrees) as a feeler but couldn't really detect 'real' from 'false' hits as the plywood/tank are tight to the tops of the bulkheads. The wire dragged pretty much the entire length of the sides.

I want to pull the tank to re-seal around the edges (a couple of years of indoor heated storage and I think things have contracted and broken seal) - when I fill the tank it just pisses around the edges when full as opposed to water coming out of its vent. I tried an epoxy sealer and applied somewhat blindly to where it was needed along the sides (using dental mirror to see where the leaks were coming from) and aft end, but impossible to get to the forward end because of how close it is to the bulkhead. Areas I sealed were okay for a year, then a few more leaks showed up again the next year. Alternative is to replace it (40 years old so who knows what gunge is inside of it so maybe not a bad idea), but still have to get it out to do that!

Anyways... don't want to hijack the thread. Had just hoped I could get a quick and simple answer while people were talking about it...

I don't even want to tell you what the inside of mine looked like. I didn't take any pictures because that's how gross it was. You could also cut the strips part out and make a new top. That's ultimately what i did in the end. After it was out. Related the top with a pvc sheeting. Expensive but mold proof, water proof, won't shrink, etc.