Thanks Guys

landandtimber · Post by **landandtimber** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:52 pm

I have not done much posting here but I have thoroughly enjoyed keeping up with everything going on. I have an F-26 and she sits high and dry right now with a fresh engine I rebuilt and in need of the cosmetic stuff. I don't have the cabbage or the time to finish right now but I live vicariously through those of you who do. Hopefully when I restart my project I can post the progress and maybe add to the site a little.

I just wanted to say how much I enjoy reading all of your posts. Keep it up and we will see you in the forums.

S. Spooner
Montgomery Alabama

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 4:34 pm

Welcome to anyone with an F-26, especially the hardtop. As you get closer to tackling jobs, not matter how small (or inexpensive) drop a line. Many of us F26-ers have "been there, done that" enough times to help keep you out of trouble and dipping too deep into your wallet. It's a great boat. We did almost 500 miles this summer on the Erie Canal and had a great time. A perfect cruiser for a couple, with plenty of cockpit space for beers and laughs with friends.

reelfishin · Post by **reelfishin** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:01 pm

I check this site everyday. I enjoy reading it too. Good information.

NealW · Post by **NealW** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:58 pm

you mentioned that you rebuilt your engine. i have a tired 350 that i will have to rebuild soon. could you give me a little guidance?
- did you do it yourself?
- did you have a machine shop do any of the work?
- what parts did you replace/reuse?
- what was the total cost to rebuild?

- I have assembled a 318 before, but never had to do the lower end. i think rebuilding the 350 is within my ability if it just involves honing the bores and rebuilding. The one area i am unsure if is the crank and the bearings. if the crank is not scored can it just be reused with new bearing or do i need to get it polished?

Any advise would be helpful.
Thanks,
Neal

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 9:25 pm

Neal, unless you have the proper tooling for rebuilding the lower end (like an engine machine shop) and, most importantly, the "know how" I suggest you buy a remanufactured "short block" and rebuild the rest of your engine from there. Having a machine shop do the heads is also a good idea. They will magnaflux for cracks, reface the heads, do a valve grind and replace the valves and seats. You will save yourself a lot of grief by doing it right. Good luck.

NealW · Post by **NealW** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:56 pm

The engine is in great running condition right now, but it has 1700 hrs on it. I'm looking to just refresh it. I'm planing on having the heads rebuilt, new bearings and rings and just hone the cylinders. I know the block is good so why would I buy a short block? I'm I missing something?

Neal

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 8:40 pm

Neil,

The engine is in great running condition right now, but it has 1700 hrs on it.

You say the engine is running great. Why would you want to tear into it. Don't worry about the hours on the engine. If you have good oil preasure your bearings are good. If you have good compression the rings are good.

You can't just put a new set of rings and new bearings in and expect the engine to run like new. It just doesn't work that way. If you do what you proposed I would be surprised if the engine run as well as it did before you started.

That's my two cents, take it for what it's worth.

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:01 pm

Neal, The saying "if it isn't broke, don't fix it" may apply here. First of all the engine hour meter says 1700 hours. But, is that from new or was the engine majored at some point or even replaced? You may be right and not need a block. Or, anything else for that matter. How do you know it is "tired"? Low and/or uneven compression readings? low oil pressure? oil consumption (not leaking)? Blowby? engine knock? Etc. And no, you can't just replace the bearings. For starters, the crank journals need to be checked with a micrometer for roundness. Likely, they (conecting rods and mains) are not and will need to go to the machine shop to be turned. Also, fitting new bearings is not an easy job. (Plasiguage, etc.) First things first. Analize the condition of your engine. A compression test, wet & dry, will tell you a lot. (if done right)

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:02 pm

My 454;s had 2600 hours and were still running at refit time.

One had been rebuilt some 10 years prior ans he other one was suffering from a worn timing chain.

Most boat engines don't wear out, they are killed, murdered.

Usually it's a component failure that kills them, not simply wearing out.

Elbows, risers, manifolds, impellers, overpropping, etc.

check your compression andsee if you are within specs.

RWS

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:32 pm

Hours in it's self don't mean much. I purchased my F32 with over 1700 hrs and was concerned, spoke to a mechanic and he said he's seen inboards with over 5400 hrs and they ran fine. Mine was used for a number of years on lake Ontario as a fishing charter and most of the hours were used as trolling at idle. The same hours ran wot would have much more effect on the engine life. There are also two different measurements hobbs time or tach time. Hobbs = hour=hour. in my airplane tac time is a formula of hours and RPM's a more accurate measurement of wear.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:39 pm

If they run good leave them alone .

Dan on tach time My hour meters are in my tachs would they read tach time or hours ? they say hours . thanks

dean price · Post by **dean price** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:40 pm

i'm still waiting to hear the answer to NealW's question re short blocks. thanks dean (f-31, 318's)

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:19 am

PROWLERFISH,

ALMOST ALL MARINE TACHS ARE IN HOBBS THEY ARE HOOKED DIRECTLY TO THE IGNITION SYSTEM AND ID NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED WILL EVEN INDICATE HOURS WHEN THE ENGINES ARE NOT RUNNING. TO CONFIRM WHAT YOU HAVE:
FIRST TO INSURE PROPER INSTALLATION NOTE HOUR READING AND TURN ON IGNITION IN SIX MINUTES TACH SHOULD NOT HAVE CHANGED.
SECOND START ENGINE IN SIX MINUTES IF THE HOURS HAVE ADDED ONE TENTH YOU HAVE A HOBBS OR 1 HOUR = 1 HOUR. IF IT IS LESS THAN ONE TENTH YOU HAVE THE AIRCRAFT TACK TYPE. AIRCRAFT WILL ALSO RECORD MORE THAT ACTUAL TACK TIME WHEN RAN AT MORE THAN WOT.

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:19 am

PROWLERFISH,

ALMOST ALL MARINE TACHS ARE IN HOBBS THEY ARE HOOKED DIRECTLY TO THE IGNITION SYSTEM AND IF NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED WILL EVEN INDICATE HOURS WHEN THE ENGINES ARE NOT RUNNING. TO CONFIRM WHAT YOU HAVE:
FIRST TO INSURE PROPER INSTALLATION NOTE HOUR READING AND TURN ON IGNITION IN SIX MINUTES TACH SHOULD NOT HAVE CHANGED.
SECOND START ENGINE IN SIX MINUTES IF THE HOURS HAVE ADDED ONE TENTH YOU HAVE A HOBBS OR 1 HOUR = 1 HOUR. IF IT IS LESS THAN ONE TENTH YOU HAVE THE AIRCRAFT TACK TYPE. AIRCRAFT WILL ALSO RECORD MORE THAT ACTUAL TACK TIME WHEN RAN AT MORE THAN WOT.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 10:00 am

Dan thank you . I had another boat that also had a hour meter in the tach but that one was not electric and ran of a cable . I wonder what type of hours that one reported ?

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