Water Pressure Pump: Stoooooopid Question # 186

Tuck · Post by **Tuck** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:20 am

put some wa-wa in the tank, and turned the water pressure pump on, but it never seems to stop running. on my other boat, it ran just long enough to get pressure to the system, then stopped unless you were running water.

i let this pump run for about 10 minutes, and it never shut off. no water was running (that i know of).

with a completely dry tank, how long should it take for the water pressure to come up to snuff on this f32?

could i have a problem?

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:38 am

These pumps should self prime fairly quickly. You may have a vaporlock at the pump. Try opening the taps while the pump is running until it primes itself. Also be sure that there isn't a closed valve between the water tank and the pump.

What make and model pump is it?

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:38 am

You may not have put enough water in the tank to prime the system. You have to get enough water in the tank to completly cover the outlet. The pump should be self priming, but if the pump can suck any air it won't suck the water.
An easy way to check the pump is to put the inlet side of the pump hose in a bucket filled with water. Turn the pump on and, if the pump is good, it will suck the water out of the bucket. The pressure switch will not turn the pump off until all the air is out of the system.

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:03 pm

i had a similar experience on my f-32 when i bought her in august. the pump just kept running and nothing came out of the tap. upon further investigation, i discovered a small pin hole in the bellows thus rendering the pump useless. tuck, just replace the pump with a newer self priming one like i did and that should solve the problem. i know it sucks having to start replacing things straight away, but, thats the fun of boat ownership. if you have an RV store nearby, the pumps are the same except it says RV instead of marine. even the wiring is the same. this will save $$ and you get the same type of water pump. the one thing you do not want to do with the older pump is let it run dry...... that is the fastest way to burn out the motor. make sure that the new pump says,''can be run dry''. that will give you some peace of mind. with the new pump i installed, even with the water tank half full, i get INSTANT water pressure in the galley and head.
aaron

Stripermann2 · Post by **Stripermann2** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:31 pm

Check for a leak. The pump will continuously run if there is a leak. Once the valve taps are off it should stop. Also, if the water heater was empty, give it a bit to fill it up, then it should shut off.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:47 pm

Water Heater!!! good point

TADTOOMUCH · Post by **TADTOOMUCH** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:02 pm

If you do replace the pump and it is located in the bilge area where fumes can accumulate, you must buy a marine rated pump and not one for an RV. If the pump is not in combustible fume space then you might be okay. Make sure the high pressure relief valve on your water heater is not open otherwise you wont build back pressure to shut the pump off. It will take a few minutes to fill the hot water tank and all the lines in the boat to build back pressure to shut off the pump. If it still runs then check for leaks everywhere you can see a connection point and then lastly the diaphragm in the pump might be bad.

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 10:41 am

Tadtoomuch, your absolutley correct in the expolosion proof pump in the bilge, also in my F32 I have the four fuel tanks with two in the engine room and two under the aft deck. The aft deck must also be treated the same as the engine room.

TADTOOMUCH · Post by **TADTOOMUCH** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 10:46 am

The more I think about it. I would suggest using a marine pump no mater where the pump is located on the boat. The whole bilge runs fore to aft and is connected as water can run fore to aft in the boat. Even though there are bulkheads, any fumes from a gas leak can travel the full length of the boat through the bilge as the fumes are heavier than air and will sit there in the bottom and work their way up.

davescarrs · Post by **davescarrs** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 10:39 pm

I recently had the same problem and bought a replacement pressure switch for $35, way less than a whole new pump.

Tuck · Post by **Tuck** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:38 pm

just got home from a long weekend on the new boat. got the water pump situation figured out.

there is a water filter thingie in the aft area. filled the tank all the way up, and when the pump didn't cut out, i started looking for leaks. found this filter thingie, and it was dripping like a waterfall.

removed it, reseated the gasket, put back on, and wa-la. pump kicked off after a couple of minutes, and i now have wa wa.

now if i can just figure out the electrical issues i think i have...more on that on post stoooopid question #187. hehe

guglielmo6160 · Post by **guglielmo6160** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:05 pm

no soup for you ,, one year!!!!!!
I just noticed your picture,,, funny stuff, thats my favorite show

guglielmo6160 · Post by **guglielmo6160** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:06 pm

but to answer your posting
sounds weird, my pump has a pressure switch on it, and cuts the power, obviously your switch isnt working, or your loosing water somewhere, should be an easy fix,
and does your pump have a pressure switch?

guglielmo6160 · Post by **guglielmo6160** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:08 pm

oh, thats what I get for not reading the postings,, see you found it,,,
good,, and
and theres no bread with my soup