stressed out!

[smooth250]

I own a 1976 f30 last winter I fixed a delaminated deck problem over the bow and salon. I did all the work from underneath so I would disturb the gel coat, now this year I would like to paint the topside but I have stress cracks from before the repair. I would like to know the best way to repair them and match the nonskid surface before painting. Any pointers would be great.

thanks
matt anderson

[gjrylands]

I own a 1976 f30 last winter I fixed a delaminated deck problem over the bow and salon. I did all the work from underneath so I would disturb the gel coat, now this year I would like to paint the topside but I have stress cracks from before the repair. I would like to know the best way to repair them and match the nonskid surface before painting. Any pointers would be great.

thanks
matt anderson

I have a 79 F36 and am making the same repair that you have finished. I am also making the repair from the bottom for exactly the same reason that you did.

From what I have read about repairing stress cracks, they will need to be ground out with a Drumel or similar tool. They then need to be filled with an epoxy mixed with a thickening agent; and then sanded. I’ve used this method on flat surfaces and it words well. The problem is, you and I will be trying to repair stress cracks in a textured surface. I know that if the cracks are not repaired, they will come right back after painting I don’t think there is a magic wand out there. I’m hoping someone has a better solution, but the way I see it we have a few choices.

We could do nothing and live with the stress cracks. Not a good choice. Water can get into the cracks and start wrecking the job we just fixed.

We could grind, fill, and sand the cracks, and paint the deck. This should fix the deck, but you’re going to see the repairs made to the cracks.

We could repair the cracks, but prior to painting we could try to duplicate the texturing in the deck. I’ve been told that there is a graining paper that can be pressed into the repair while it is still wet; once dry it can be removed, duplicating the texture. This sounds great, but I have serious doubts about how it would work on a repair as small as a crack. I also have no idea where the graining paper could be found. Possibly a way of reproducing the texture would to try to form the texture in the wet epoxy. Wipe off any excess and not sand it. Once painted they will blend in better then just filling and sanding, but I doubt that it can be done so they won’t be seen. I think I’m going to try this method when I get there in my repair. I won’t know until I try. It wouldn’t be the first time I went to plan B even though I don’t know what plan B is.

Finally the cracks could be repaired, sanded, and the entire deck retextured. Then the entire deck painted. This solution totally defeats the logic of making the repair from below. It will be expensive, time consuming, and messy, but it is the best way to repair the deck.

That’s my two cents. If anyone as another solution I’m all ears.

[rossjo]

I have the same problem in part of my bridge floor and a place or two on the front deck. I'm thinking the only long term solution is to repair from the bottom as you both hane done, and then remove the textured surface from the top, make repairs, and then add 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass over that, sand, re-texture and paint ... daunting, huh?

I have rebuilt several other areas of fiberglass boats inthe past, and anything less than repairing the cracks and galssing over it will result in the cracks re-appearing.

Winter project if you have a warm place to work inside!

[jimbo36]

Gerry, I think you have covered all the bases regarding possible solutions to the problem. I will be doing some deck repairs to my '74 F36 this spring. Repairing a soft spot about 2 feet long on the starboard side. It happens to be accessable from the inside closet in the aft cabin. I plan to drummel the stress cracks with the narrowest bit I can get away with, epoxy then paint. Hopefully, it will not be too noticable. I will try to simulate the non skid in the repair lines with an appropriate bit in my drummel. Good luck to all with your task. Jimbo.

[gjrylands]

I have the same problem in part of my bridge floor and a place or two on the front deck. I'm thinking the only long term solution is to repair from the bottom as you both hane done, and then remove the textured surface from the top, make repairs, and then add 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass over that, sand, re-texture and paint ... daunting, huh?

I have rebuilt several other areas of fiberglass boats inthe past, and anything less than repairing the cracks and galssing over it will result in the cracks re-appearing.

Winter project if you have a warm place to work inside!

If you are going to reglass the deck I think you would be better off making repairs to the core from the top. Let gravity work for you insted of fighting it. Doing the work from the top you won't have to remove the head liner in the lower cabin.

Once I finish the deck repair I will still have to redo the cabin. That will be at least as much work as the deck repair was.

The joys of boating never end.

[guglielmo6160]

sounds like alot of work,
I live with my small cracks,

[gjrylands]

Bill,

I joined another forum to discuss the repair of stress cracks in textured surfaces. Go to:

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fiberg ... -building/

Click on:

Repairing Stress Cracks in a Nonskid Textured Surface

This will recommend ways of making repairs.

[willietrojan]

After I repaired my deck this is the paint I used on the whole deck, looks and works great!!

http://www.nonslipcoating.com/