Engine cooling pump

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TADTOOMUCH
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Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:58 am
Location: S.W. Michigan

Engine cooling pump

Post by TADTOOMUCH »

What manufacturer of engine water pump do most of you have on your F-32's with Chrysler M360 250HP engines. I did not know that Chrysler used two different manufacturers (Jabsco and Sherwood)

I did not get a good look at mine last time I was at the boat and I want to get new impellers installed before launch. I did not see a simple plate to remove to access the impellers so I am guessing mine is the Sherwood and not a Jabsco.
Boat Name: A TAD TOO MUCH
Model: 1978 F-32 Sedan Cruiser
Engines: Twin Chry 360's 666 hrs original engines

2013 Mercury 300 Ocean Runner 9.9hp Merc 4 stroke
willietrojan
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Location: Spanish Fort, Alabama

Post by willietrojan »

Most of the Chrysler's I have had were Sherwood, I assume you or talking about the raw water pump and not the circulation pump?
WillieTrojan (Owned F32, Willpower in Kinsale, Va)
Spanish Fort, Al

Looking for 33 International
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TADTOOMUCH
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Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:58 am
Location: S.W. Michigan

Pump

Post by TADTOOMUCH »

Yes the raw water intake pump. I'm leaning towards thinking it is Sherwood because I did not see a simple plate cover to remove to access the impeller. When I looked at it I assumed I would have to pull the pump off to open the housing whereas on the Jabsco there is a simple plate on the back to remove and access the impeller.
Boat Name: A TAD TOO MUCH
Model: 1978 F-32 Sedan Cruiser
Engines: Twin Chry 360's 666 hrs original engines

2013 Mercury 300 Ocean Runner 9.9hp Merc 4 stroke
gjrylands
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Location: Chicago. IL

Post by gjrylands »

You have probably have a Sherwood pump.

You will need to remove the pump to change the impellers. Loosen the belt and remove the two screws behind the pulley. If you’re lucky the pulley has two holes in it to access the screws, if not the screws are in tight quarters. Once the pump is removed you will need to remove the pulley. (It is the hardest part of the whole job.) Remove the spring clip on the shaft and the pulley should pull off, but it probably won't. Spray shaft with penetrating oil. Let the oil work. You may have to tap the shaft end while pulling on the pulley to get it to move. Be careful not to peen the end of the shaft, if you do you will have to file or grind a chamfer so the pulley will slip off. When the pulley is removed polish the shaft and pulley hub with some emery cloth. The pulley should slide on and off with little effort. Remove the 4-6 screws around the pump housing and pull the pump apart. Note which direction the vanes of the impeller are pointing and install the new impeller‘s vanes point in the same direction. A little liquid soap will help when installing the impellers. Before the impeller is installed remove the old gasket and clean surface. Inspect internal surfaces for excessive ware It’s probably fine but if not, parts are available. Reassemble the pump and pulley. Put the pump back on the engine and pat your self on the back.
Gerry
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
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mtwolf
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Post by mtwolf »

If it is a Sherwood two impeller pump (two inlet and two outlet,) you do not need to remove the pulley. Simply take the screws out in the center of the pump and pull off the rear section. The shaft will come out of the rear when you pull it apart and you can slide the front impeller and rear impeller out of the housing. If it is a single impeller, then it is a different ball game. I don't know what you have. I have rebulit my Sherwood two impeller a couple of times. Inside you will find a piece that looks like a back to back fork (two if two impeller pump.) Look at these closely. If they show a wear pattern then replace. It's called a cam. The first time that I did mine I didn't replace these and the port engine always ran a bit hotter. When I did the pumps again, last year, I replaced these and now both engines run about the same. I found my parts at ebasicpower.com.

John
F-31
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