Groco thru hull valves

[Mac32]

Ok, I have read many posts talking about if you have old Groco valves then you should get rid of them otherwise my boat "WILL" sink.

So here is my dilemma, I have the Groco SV series sea cocks that came on the boat mounted to the original backing plates ect. I just removed all of them and am going to completely re bed everything not because they leaked but for good measure (and the wood was a little soft). The valves clean up well and look brand new with no corrosion whatsoever (fresh water boat).

If I wanted to replace them I need to re fiberglass all the mounting holes, purchase new valves, and mount new valves (ball) in place ($350-$450 minimum for 4 vales) vs re-installing the originals ($15 for new nuts/washers). Now this does not sound like alot, but I still have a complete interior to finish (for those who dont know, I gutted and stripped the inside clean to replace the rotted stringers last year) so I am trying to save all my pennies, and still get her in the water this year but on the other hand I want to make good sound decisions.

I do see why the "Ball style" valves are far superior but bottom line is these valves look new now, work great, and I am having a hard time justifying spending the $$$ on new ones.

What does my boating board of directors think?

[gjrylands]

I would reuse the valves. I wouldn’t think twice about it, since yours are operating freely In salt water the valve can seize and make the unusable in an emergency. This usually results from lack of use. The valves should periodically be closed and opened to keep the moving parts moving. A little lub at the pivot point helps.

[TADTOOMUCH]

I'd also re-use them. I had the same concern on my F-32 and I took apart the valve and it looked great and I lubed it up and put it back together. My backer plates were in good shape so I didn't even think twice about re-using them. I took them apart just to make sure based on an earlier post. I am in fresh water so I understand how salt water could really do a job on them.

I did install a ball valve seacock on my air conditioner water intake.

[prowlersfish]

I wopuld also reuse them .

[Mac32]

Ok, I will re-use the valves, that was my thought also

Now, what about the intake thru hull strainers?

What I dont like is the one piece design that doesnt allow both the intake scoop and valve to line up in the correct orientation (rotation) AND be able to tighten up on the hull/backer assembly. I found when taking it apart is the valve mounting bolts were tightened up at some time and that pushed the scoop about 1/8 off the hull, it wasn't much of a problem since the bedding compound filled the gap but doesn't seem right.

What does seem right is a mushroom head intake that can be tightened to the valve separately form the 2 mounting bolts and then bolt on a separate scoop cover over the intake in the correct orientation?

Maybe I dont have the correct procedure in mind for mounting the 1 piece scoop/thru hull?

What is the consensus on this?

[gjrylands]

Isn't there a backing block between the valve and the inside of the hull.? If so, wouldn't a little thicker block take up the space that the pickup is being pushed down?

[Mac32]

Gerry, Yes there is, and they will be new, but if the valve needs to be located at 12 o'clock and the scoop at 3 o'clock I will never match the thickness. Cause when the two parts are threaded together (with roughly 1/8 thread pitch) either it will be too tight or too loose when screwing together and maintaining position.

Maybe its not a big deal, because the backing plate will just squish more bedding out and when it sets it will all be solid........

I am just being an engineer, because if it were all solid it would not work, but I guess with the compound it will make up the difference.

Also I am using 3m 5200. Is this too aggressive?

[gjrylands]

I don't care to bed with 5200. It dries too hard It also makes removal difficult. A bedding compound doesn't set, it remains flexible.

When you screw the valve onto the scoop the thread on the scoop bottom out on the valve body. The threads on the scoop are not tappered like plumbing fittings. I believe there are 11 1/2 threads per inch on 1 1/4 -2 inch fittings. That means that the valve will advance aprox. 3/32" per revolution. When you tighten the valve on the scoop, note the orientation. If you need the valve to rotate 90 more degrees, file or grind 0.020 - 0.025 off the top of the threads of the scoop. This will allow the valve to rotate another 90 deggrees. (1/4 of 3/32" = 3/128") File carefully, you want the top of the treads to be straight so they seal against the valve body when tightened. You can file as much as you need removed to get the proper orientation.