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tks to the gregmiester, we now know the problem with the power issue on my starboard side. the breaker on the main board is kaput...gone...pushing up the daisies....taking a dirt nap....was burried at sea, etc.
i need to find either an OEM replacement, or something which is proven to be work in its place. question is, where to get one?
any help will be greatly appreciated, as usual...and like the gregster, you'll all be put on my Christmas card list.
Tuck,
I think I have the breaker you are looking for.
The one I've got is manufactured by:
Heiemann Electric Co.
Trenton, NJ
Cat. No. AM336
30 A Main breaker
3 Switch Breaker
The breaker I have is used but I have checked it and it is functioning perfectly.
Check your breaker and email me if it is the correct breaker.
I can email pictures of my breaker. Will talk price after you confirm that this is the correct breaker.
Tuck, If the main or sub breakers are bad then I would guess that the panel might have some other issues that could creep up and bite you in the keister. At this point, if you can afford to, replace the whole panel with a new one. If you can't afford it now then replace the breaker and make sure all connections are clean and tight. The wire is probably fine as the breakers are there to protect the wiring and the breakers can only take so much and after some time they wear out and don't hold or overheat due to constant tripping.
Aren't boats fun. Always something that costs about $1,000 to fix but this shouldn't be nearly that much.
Boat Name: A TAD TOO MUCH
Model: 1978 F-32 Sedan Cruiser
Engines: Twin Chry 360's 666 hrs original engines
TADTOOMUCH wrote:Tuck, If the main or sub breakers are bad then I would guess that the panel might have some other issues that could creep up and bite you in the keister. At this point, if you can afford to, replace the whole panel with a new one. If you can't afford it now then replace the breaker and make sure all connections are clean and tight. The wire is probably fine as the breakers are there to protect the wiring and the breakers can only take so much and after some time they wear out and don't hold or overheat due to constant tripping.
Aren't boats fun. Always something that costs about $1,000 to fix but this shouldn't be nearly that much.
Trojan used a Murray sub panel in my F36. I think the same set up was used in the F32. The mains are not in the sub panel, but are along side it. The mains are kind of special. There are 3 breakers built into one main breaker. All the breakers in the sub panel are standard household breakers that can be bought in any hardware store. The cheapest and easiest fix is to replace the main with an exact replacement.
Stripermann2, do you know if John can get a main breaker that is an exact replacement?
Newer panels use the magnetic breakers like Blue Sea or Anchor. To replace the panel with these breakers is very expensive, and in my opinion unnecessary.
In my F32 it appears to be a residential panel with a main 30A double pole double throw main breaker above four single pole single throw breakers that are are 15A each for the port and starboard receptacles and then two 20A breakers that are for the fridge and water heater respectively. They may be a standard residential breaker but I can't tell what manufacturer. There is also a reverse polarity sensor mounted in the panel as well.
Boat Name: A TAD TOO MUCH
Model: 1978 F-32 Sedan Cruiser
Engines: Twin Chry 360's 666 hrs original engines
Gerry, I do not know if he can. I do know that he has knowledge of where to get them if he does not. The smaller breakers in the panel are like household, which I have purchased locally.
Jamie
1985 F-32 270 Crusaders
1988 Sea Ray 23 350 Merc.
Trojan. Enjoy the ride...
-I don't wanna hear anyone whine...Anymore!
-You might get there before me, but you still have to wait for me, for the fun to start!
TADTOOMUCH wrote:In my F32 it appears to be a residential panel with a main 30A double pole double throw main breaker above four single pole single throw breakers that are are 15A each for the port and starboard receptacles and then two 20A breakers that are for the fridge and water heater respectively. They may be a standard residential breaker but I can't tell what manufacturer. There is also a reverse polarity sensor mounted in the panel as well.
The main you are describing is different then what I have in my F36. I have a generator with a selector switch. This could be why there is a difference. If the mains are in the power panel , they pop out and can easily be changed. From the sounds of your description these are household breakers that can be bought most anywhere.
When replacing it, take it with to match it up, but I think it will be a Murray.
Remove it and take it to Home Depot... they were able to match mine for physical size which is what is key.
Michael
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
Tuck wrote:from what i can see, those breakers from the site linked previously don't match the ones i have now. does that matter?
also, did i read right? can i find a suitable replacement at home depot or the like?
I will repeat the *physical size* of them is what is important... i.e. the width and the layout on the back of where they clip onto the two power supply strips within the panel unit.
So remove one and take it with you to Home Depot, an electric supply house whatever... they will then give you the current brand that can fit into that panel.... you do not need to use identical brand, my 1977 one was no longer manufactured.
I was able to get double breakers that were the thickness of the old one I had so ended up with another circuit which was helpful.
Michael
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
My local Home Depot doesn't handle Murray breakers but Lowes does. I have the same Murray breakers in my house and my F-31 Trojan also has Murray breakers.
the starboard 30 amp main on tucks f32 is the problem and it is the 3 breakers tied together as also referenced by gjrylands. the rest of the electrical panel is fine. since i checked this out for him and its not my boat i would very much prefer installing what would be the exact same. (you can probably understand why). i realize that this might not be possible but i suggested to him to contact the fourm and also beacon and marine tech to see. i also realize we might need to change to something that functions the same and would require some modification to the panel opening.
1997 CARVER 405
"the BLACK PEARL"
past fleet
1978 F32 SEDAN CHRYSLER 318's
current fleet
1997 seadoo gts
1997 yamaha wave venture
1985 sunbird 18 ft runabout
1968 coronado sailboat 25 ft
sunfish
14' hobie cat
canoe
8ft portabote