1978 F-25 Specs and Info. Let me know asap. Just a few Q's

skuzzlebutt · Post by **skuzzlebutt** » Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:16 pm

Need to know what brand and model number spark plugs to buy.
What weight oil of oil and how much. also what size/make of filter to use?

Its a single 318 Chrysler. We havent taken delivery of the boat yet and were going out the the marina to just give it a quick oil change and some new plugs and were going to fire it up.

Thanks
Ken

kevin babineau · Post by **kevin babineau** » Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:46 pm

if ur gonna pull out the spark plugs i would do a compression test...u can buy a tester anywhere...as part of my spring tune up i alway compression test...since the plugs r out aways...plus i do it for a gauge of how the engine is doing....but since this is a new purchase....i would run the compression numbers...also when i do it i give it like a 5 count meaning i dont turn it over and over and over until i get a max reading...also i would take caution on running a raw water pump dry.. this is what i do...food for thought...i run ngk plus in everything i have if i can get them...thats only me...in my 69 318 i run ngk bpr6es...for oil i run mercruiser brand marine oil...again that is only my preferance...run what u like but i believe that not all oils r the same

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:05 pm

I would not waste your time doing a compression test if the engine is running fine . the results may worry you for no good reason. many a engine thats been sitting will show poor readings , that would fine after the engine had some hours on it . I have run engines for years that had compression reading that where out of specs with no proplems a good tech can tell you more by to a eng for a few minites . Now if engine is Missing then a test maybe in order ,

As far as oil 30w is what it calls for hower I like 15w-40 oil in a marine engine gas or diesel ( just my choice ). capacty will vary on angle of engine and pan . AC filter numers are PF2 ( long filter ) and PF20 short filter use the long filter if your have room if not use the short fram numbers are PH8A (long ) PH43 short I do not like frams as the housing seem thin .

Good luck with the new boat .

skuzzlebutt · Post by **skuzzlebutt** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 12:05 am

Thanks!

We bought some oil. My MCM 170 in my other boat uses 20w 50 so we bought that for this one too. The computer at the store said 4 quarts and i read somewhere online that it was 8 quarts and all the v8's ive ever worked on were about 6quarts so im lost when it comes to how much to buy. we bought 6 for now.

also we bought champion RN14YC's for plugs. the reason im asking is because we'll return it if its off. i'm an NGK fan myself so we may exchange those. bought Valvoline since it was on sale for the oil. As for the filter is its a FRAM PH43 that we bought. We'll also pour some seafoam in the gas tank. any opinions on that?

I'll probably do a compression check... What is the proper way to do it. Im used to doing them all the time on my 2 cylinder PWC's but not on a Marine V8 any speacial thing to do? Take all the plugs out and do it or just pull one at a time? disconnect the coil or anything like that or just ground the plugs by holding them on the block?

guglielmo6160 · Post by **guglielmo6160** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 12:53 am

compression test?? why would you do that? just curious

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 12:58 am

the recc oil for your MCM170 I belive is 25w-40 . I don't belive any maker reccmends 20w50 I sure would not use it( althou it should not hurt any thing ) , if feel the need to do a compression check ( why ?) disconecting the coil is a good idea champion plugs seem to work the best in these engines

kevin babineau · Post by **kevin babineau** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 9:53 am

as for compression testing....the way i do it is...i made a remote starter switch out of a horn button but u can buy one at auto zone or sears...u should have a slave soleniod for ur starter(preferably).. if not go right to the starter...one of the little terminals fires the soleniod....i leave the key off and u can take the coil wire off if u like.u can do this without the remote starter by have a helper and disconnecting the coil wire..i take a black majic marker..and on each side of the motor as i pull off the spark plug wire i write a slash on it i dont both with going to 8 i just put one slash o,n one wire two on the next etc with the marker...even if u have black with usually u can see it the wires wont be off long...i then take compressed air from a small pancake compressor and blow out around the sparks plugs..i pull out each plug and inspect their condition...oily? burnt? worn? i save them in the order they came out..once all the plugs are out...with a good battery i install the compression tester and crack the approximately 4 to 5 revolutions...i watch for the first pulse too..that should be the first time the needle jumps..i dont keep turning it over and over to get max reading plus less turn of the water pump......i have a white industiral marker and i write my numbers right on the engine above the cylinder but u can used a book or what ever.. when i do thew whole engine i am not looking for a number i am looking for all the cylinders to be the same...with in 10 or so lbs....i do this everytime i do a tune-up...weither it a waste of time??? it is something i do...and i have found it helpful to me...and as years pass i can see what is happening ...sometimes a motor can run and sound ok at an idle but can hav one cylinder low...again this is just what i do and i do it for my customers too...oh and when i install the plugs i use a peice of vacuum hose slipped over the plug tip so i can reach the plug in and turn it..i also put a tiny dab of grease or oil on the threads..not alot to get to on the electrode just a dab..sometimes i also put that silcone grease stuff on the spark plug wire side too...i make sure i hear the plug wire snap into place also

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 10:12 am

putting oil on the plug theads is not really recommended by any plug or engine maker. the plug come with a antseeze coating of course the aparts stores love selling ant seeze when buy plugs (dont use it ). putting oil or any thing on the threads affects the tourge heat transfer of the plugs . How every if the holes are very rusty it may be lesser evil.

Aways disconnect the coil as you can get spark when cranking even when using a jump switch as there is a wire from the starter to the coil to give full voltage when cranking. this is very inportant when working in areas where fumes can be around. just removing the coil will not stop a spark at the coil.

You can waste your time if you like, but just don't blow your self up.