Teak & Holly

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Paul
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Location: Windsor Ont.

Teak & Holly

Post by Paul »

When we did the restoration on our boat in 2001, we had replaced all of the formica faced cabin doors & drawers with custom red mohagony. We then stripped the existing teak trim then refinished all of the wood with Sikkens Cetol Marine matt base coat & clear top coat. The two types of wood blend together very well with this finish and the cabin interior still looks like it was finished yesterday.

Now it's time to finish the job. We installed new carpeting in 2001 and it's due to be changed, so we've decided replace it all with a teak & holly floor. This includes the companionway steps, galley floor, dinette floor & the V-berth floor. So here's my question, if I use the Sikkens Cetol (matt finish only), like I did in the swim platform, will it last or wear well? Is there something that has as nice a finish that is better suited to this application?

Thanks,
Paul
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rossjo
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Sikens is great

Post by rossjo »

I don't see how you could go wrong there.

On my boats, I sand the wood down completely, use 1-2 coats of Minwax Polyshades (pick your color) - and then top coat with 2-3 coats of Urethane clear gloss topcoat. I've done the galley cabinet doors (removable) on my F32 so far - looks great.

I also did my swim platform on my 25' trailer boat (sits outside) this way 6 months ago - and it still looks great, but don't know about coneinual UV and Saltware exposure outside ...
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randyp
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Cetol

Post by randyp »

I finished off our teak swim platform two years ago with the Matte Cetol and it looks like it will need a touch up before I put the boat back next Spring. I only used 3 coats, but it held up very well. I'll resand and probably use 5-6 coats this time.
JuiceClark
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teak and holly

Post by JuiceClark »

I put a teak and holly plywood sole in my F-36. Instead of taking the time to put 7 or more coat of poly on it...I only put 3. Using epiphanes glossy, (like it shiney) I just cleaned the wood really well and applied three coats on a long weekend.

Now, whenever there are a few small scratches from normal wear, I get out the steel wool, rough it up and apply another coat. After a year I think I have 5 coats. Another year or two and I'll get up toward 10 coats -- when it really starts to look deep and rich.

The more boat projects I do the more I learn it's always a work in progress. I hate to do things perfectly from the beginning, because then I'm too worried about messin' it up rather than having a good time.
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Paul
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Location: Windsor Ont.

Teak & Holly

Post by Paul »

Thanks for all the replies,

JuiceClark, it sounds like you've already done this same job. I was under the impression that if I used a glossy finish that the floor would be slippery and really show scuffs and scratches. Am I wrong in thinking this? I'm hoping to find a finish that will hold up to deck shoes and wet feet without having to be recoated sooner than every 2-3 years. This is the same rate that I recoat my swim platform with Cetol matt finish. I'll bet that gloss floor makes your cabin look really rich.

Thanks
Paul
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JuiceClark
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Glossy?

Post by JuiceClark »

Yeah, I like the look of it. I don't know why using glossy poly would be any more slippery than satin...it's the same smooth surface. The only thing about glossy is it shows every little bump or imperfection. So, I only used it in the inside of the boat. My swim platform takes a beating so I kept it natural until it wore out. Then I built a fiberglass one!

It doesn't feel slippery when I walk on it...but the salon has never been that wet inside. I have a runner rug going down the middle to cover the engine hatch crack...so nobody would slip on that anyway.
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