Ripped my railing out of the teak on the front

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 6:33 am

Last weekend our HUGE float blew off the front of the boat and my wife had to snag it with the hook and hold it against the railing until I could get out of the wind to come help her lift it over.
Well it pulled two of the posts out of the teak and leaned them over. I went and screwed the screws back in but they are only temporarily in there.

Anyone have any suggestions to get them mounted more stable? I understand that the bolts are supposed to go all the way through the hull and have nuts on the other end but somewhere along the way some of the bolts have been removed and replaced with screws that are about 2-2.5" long. most of the screws are stripped in their holes.
I need to get these things mounted strong.

Any sugggestions would be great caue I am having a lot of screws stripping in the wood lately.

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 1:58 pm

The best way I have found to repair the wood around a stripped screw is to plug the hole with a dowel rod epoxied in and cut flush. If you can enlarge the hole by drilling it out first it will be better. You just want what you are securing to cover the enlarged hole. You will need to allow the epoxy to dry before drilling a pilot hole and securing the piece with the screw. If the wood around the dowel isnâ€™t rotten the repair will be as strong or stronger than the original wood.

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 2:08 pm

gjrylands wrote:The best way I have found to repair the wood around a stripped screw is to plug the hole with a dowel rod epoxied in and cut flush. If you can enlarge the hole by drilling it out first it will be better. You just want what you are securing to cover the enlarged hole. You will need to allow the epoxy to dry before drilling a pilot hole and securing the piece with the screw. If the wood around the dowel isnâ€™t rotten the repair will be as strong or stronger than the original wood.

That's a excellent Idea. I will do just that.
At least that way there is still wood in the hole and not just glue or epoxy....

Thanks a bunch

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 3:29 pm

I had some of my bolts that had broken off and previous owner replaced with screws. This spring I removed all the bolts and screw (one stantion at a time) rebedded and replaced all broken bolts with new. The stantions need to be bedded or the toe rail can leak and rot. It took about 8 hours of work to do it but it's done right and is strong as new with no leaks.
Some were really hard to get to and I had to remove some of the interior.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:14 pm

While you're at it, the fittings for the stanchions probably need to be replaced with new 316 Stainless pieces .... migtht as well replace the 60 degree rail fittings as well ...

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 6:04 am

Yea, I don't know about replacing all those. That would get expensive but definately will be re-sealing them to prevent rot.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:55 am

On an F32/36's front rail, the rails ar 7/8" stainless, the bottom stanchion mounts are round 60-degree, 3 bolt fittings and the top rail is all 60-degree Tees. I plan to replace mine when we repaint the boat this fall (probably orbital weld them on too - no rivets).

The 44 looks like it has 90's in the center and then 60's up front. Is it 7/8" railing as well?

If you buy these rail fittings retail, they are expensive ($15-25 each). We use 316 cast fittings in our products, and could get these for people on Trojanboats.net cheaper (<$10 each ?) if there is interest ...

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:57 am

rossjo wrote:On an F32/36's front rail, the rails ar 7/8" stainless, the bottom stanchion mounts are round 60-degree, 3 bolt fittings and the top rail is all 60-degree Tees. I plan to replace mine when we repaint the boat this fall (probably orbital weld them on too - no rivets).

The 44 looks like it has 90's in the center and then 60's up front. Is it 7/8" railing as well?

If you buy these rails, they are expensive retail ($15-25 each). We use 316 cast fittings in our products, and could get these for people on Trojanboats.net cheaper (<$10 each ?) if there is interest ...

HMMMM, yea there's an interest for that price.....I would replace them all then....

Buckknekkid · Post by **Buckknekkid** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:11 am

we were WAKED by some idiot while tied up on a wall this week. even with 6 ten inch fenders out we suffered about 8 feet of torn teak rubrail. I saved all the pieces and screwed and glued it all back together but it will have to be replaced in the winter. Does anyone have a profile so I can get some milled??

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:19 am

Buckknekkid wrote:we were WAKED by some idiot while tied up on a wall this week. even with 6 ten inch fenders out we suffered about 8 feet of torn teak rubrail. I saved all the pieces and screwed and glued it all back together but it will have to be replaced in the winter. Does anyone have a profile so I can get some milled??

Ewww I'm sorry for you... That sucks... Luckily we are in a rear slip where the water remains calm except when some idiot goes by that's not paying attention.

We had a new asian boat owner that bought a Huge house boat. He got into the center between the docks and the wind caught the rear of the house boat and he slammed the dock right across my bow..... Lucky for me my boat JUST fits inside the 55' slip so he didn't touch the Trojan BUT he took out 4 sat dishes mounted on the finger ends and nailed my friends house boat......

He paid for everything to be fixed.
He's got a huge dent all the way down his right side.

Buckknekkid · Post by **Buckknekkid** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 3:27 pm

We had one do the same, hit three boats and whacked the concrete wall so hard I heard it three piers away.

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:25 am

sounds like a scene from the disney move THE BOATNIKS.... i've got the dvd and always laugh at the guy ramming his hatteras into the dock as he fumbles for the throttles and gearshifters all the time saying...''ohhh ohhh". at tilghman island marina last week a guy in a brand new carver got caught in the wind and rammed his windless bow sprit through someones salon window then used it as a pivot point...... god what a mess.

g36 · Post by **g36** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 7:02 am

rossjo wrote:
If you buy these rail fittings retail, they are expensive ($15-25 each). We use 316 cast fittings in our products, and could get these for people on Trojanboats.net cheaper (<$10 each ?) if there is interest ...

i might be interested in replacing some fittings at this price also let me know

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:13 am

The (2) fittings needed to replace an F32's front rail fittings are:

316 S.S. 60Â° Universal Tee Tube O.D. - 7/8" Weight - 6.0oz.
http://www.whitecapindustries.net/produ ... ductId=540

316 S.S. 7/8" - 60Â° Round Base.
http://www.whitecapindustries.net/produ ... ductId=676

I'll get some pricing together ...

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:18 am

rossjo wrote:The (2) fittings needed to replace an F32's front rail fittings are:

316 S.S. 60Â° Universal Tee Tube O.D. - 7/8" Weight - 6.0oz.
http://www.whitecapindustries.net/produ ... ductId=540

316 S.S. 7/8" - 60Â° Round Base.
http://www.whitecapindustries.net/produ ... ductId=676

I'll get some pricing together ...

Mine are all 90 degrees. Straight up.

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Ripped my railing out of the teak on the front

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