new deck material

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captain don
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Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 6:55 am
Location: Guntersville, AL

new deck material

Post by captain don »

I have ripped out the entire back deck on my F-32 due to rotting when I bought it. I have replaced all weak supports and painted the inside of the hull. (looks really nice) I have cleaned and lubricated all steering components and am installing new fuel and water tanks. With that said my thoughts are turning to starting on the new deck soon. I plan to use marine plywood and bed in all seams and edges with cloth and resin. Wondering what to use for the finish material over the plywood. Could just glass the wood and paint. Would like to use something that looks nice. I don't know how to match the old caulked teak that was original. Any thoughts on a product or process that would look nice and hold up. Thanks, Captain Don
chauzer
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Location: wisconsin rapids,wi

Post by chauzer »

when i redid my back deck i had the wood sprayed with spray in truck bed liner. you can get it in just about any color, its slip resistant and it's very durable. i had mine done in white and it looks really nice. i have a few pictures of it in the boat but it wasn't totally finished.

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life is tough! it's even tougher if your stupid.
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MattSC
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Post by MattSC »

I replaced my deck 15yrs ago with 1/2" marine plywood, covered with a layer of fiberglass (tinted the resin white) and finished it with Awlgrip.

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Peter
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Location: Used to have F36 on Lake Erie...

Post by Peter »

I would say it depends on how faithful you want to be to the original deck. World Panel makes an expensive teak decking material already rubberized/caulked and sold in various sizes. Could lay it down over the marine plywood.Obviously could go the labor-intensive method of applying teak stripping with caulking [ over Marine plywood... if you have the time and patience and are looking for that beautiful marine look ]. The spray liner idea over marine plywood which has been well sealed is a great idea if you're looking for a relatively inexpensive and low labor but tough non-slip surface. Good luck.

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rossjo
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Divinycell

Post by rossjo »

Do it right, and rot-proof with Divinycell, a cross-linked, closed cell PVC foam core.

I used this on my 26, and will use it on my F32 when I replace sections.

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http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... Divinycell

Description:
"Plain Divinycell cross-linked PVC foam core. H80, 5 LB. density. Plain sheet, not contourable. Great for decks and flat areas of hull. 5 lb./cu. Ft. Divinycell is a semi-rigid PVC foam used as a sandwich core material when strength, stiffness and low weight is desired. It has excellent insulating properties and a closed-cell structure that makes it impervious to water."

YouTube video explains:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y067Vz7J ... r_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_1JRczu ... re=related
and yes, its strong ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eUt0YnN ... re=related
Last edited by rossjo on Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Captain Ross, 2009 Trojan Boater of the Year
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17
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MattSC
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Post by MattSC »

Looks pretty impressive, wish I knew about it when I did my deck. But, overall my deck has held up pretty well over the last 15yrs.
bucyrusboater
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Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:52 pm
Location: Lake Erie, Ohio

Post by bucyrusboater »

I am getting ready to do the same project.

I need to replace/fix a small soft spot section on my F31 deck. Section is between the engine access covers and fuel tank access panel.

I am wonder what is the best way to handle this project. Should I just replace the entire deck, or can I do this in sections. If anyone has a good website for me to look at, this would be great.

Dont mean to hitchhike your thread, but am hoping to get some good information for all of us.

Thanks in advance,
Bucyrusboater
1973 Trojan F31 Hardtop
Valley Harbor, Vermilion Ohio
rossjo
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Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2005 2:48 pm
Location: Charleston, SC
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Post by rossjo »

Marine plywood has a solid history, and can/will hold up for many years if properly sealed. Its just that the newer coring materials will not rot, so that would be preferable if you're starting today ...
Captain Ross, 2009 Trojan Boater of the Year
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17
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