prop shaft/stuffing box leak
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- guglielmo6160
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prop shaft/stuffing box leak
hello all, I seem to have developed a starboard engine, prop shaft leak where the shaft exits the boat near the rubber boot. I believe its coming from the large nut where the rope seal is,
my question is , can I snug it up or do I have to haul the boat to deal with this
my question is , can I snug it up or do I have to haul the boat to deal with this
1983 10 meter express
Tighten a 1/4 turn at a time. If the nut bottoms out, then you need to repack. I've added a little extra packing a few times while still in the water to just get by for the season after bottoming out the nut. I've completely repacked once, cleaning out all the old first but it was a little un-nerving seeing all that watter gush in while I wrapped the new packing around the shaft. It can be done....
Current Fleet:
2000 Carver 450 Voyager
1991 Thompson 21' Carerra Cuddy
1994 Scout 15'
2005 Caribe LCX9 dingy
1981 16' Hobicat
Former Owner - 1973 Trojan F-36 "Light and Variable"
2000 Carver 450 Voyager
1991 Thompson 21' Carerra Cuddy
1994 Scout 15'
2005 Caribe LCX9 dingy
1981 16' Hobicat
Former Owner - 1973 Trojan F-36 "Light and Variable"
- guglielmo6160
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- Location: cape coral florida
Repacking the shaft while in the water is not that big of a deal. Once you take off the packing nut water will come in through the shaft log. Take a rag and poke it in around the shaft and stuffing box. This will almost completely stop the flow of water. You can then take your time picking out the old packing. Just make sure you get all of the old packing out of the nut. Cut and install the new packing. You will need to remove the rag at this point and screw the packing nut on the shaft log. As you tighten the nut, the packing will be pressed into the bottom of the nut. Once it is tight, back it off and add another piece of packing. Press it into the nut again by tightening. Remove the nut and add a third piece of packing. Once the third and last piece of packing is pressed into the nut, back it off until you get water dripping from the shaft. The water cools the shaft as it spins in the packing. Tighten the lock nut and the job is done.
If you want to poke the rag around the shaft you can while you put the second and then the third piece of packing in the nut , or just let the water flow. (The bilge pump will take care of the water.)
If you want to poke the rag around the shaft you can while you put the second and then the third piece of packing in the nut , or just let the water flow. (The bilge pump will take care of the water.)
Gerry
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's

1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's

- ready123
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Here it is in pictures:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
Michael
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
- guglielmo6160
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- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:07 pm
- Location: cape coral florida
ok guys , thanks so much for all the info, and the pictures as well. Im going to do it this morning and hopefully will be able to snug it up. My only concern is that those nuts look funky. I hope their not seized , so Im bringing some penetrating oil etc to help. I think the PO left some stufffing in the hardware draw, but for today Im going to try to snug up,
my leak is substantial. I do know a little is good, but mine is a constant flow. Enough for concern, as I leave my boat in during the winter and typically will pour antifreeze into the bilge to prevent freezing and dont want it washing out with the bilge pumps. Thats my biggest concern. I wouldnt have a problem with a few drips.
will update , and try to post pictures
my leak is substantial. I do know a little is good, but mine is a constant flow. Enough for concern, as I leave my boat in during the winter and typically will pour antifreeze into the bilge to prevent freezing and dont want it washing out with the bilge pumps. Thats my biggest concern. I wouldnt have a problem with a few drips.
will update , and try to post pictures
1983 10 meter express
- guglielmo6160
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ok, update,
went to the marina and was able to snug up the shaft stuffing box with no problems at all, worked like a charm, I didnt replace the sealing medium, but def stopped the leak till the spring.
many thanks to all , and thanks to Aaron for the step by step, I appreciate it.[img][img]http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo63 ... 6_0912.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo63 ... 6_0914.jpg[/img][/img]
went to the marina and was able to snug up the shaft stuffing box with no problems at all, worked like a charm, I didnt replace the sealing medium, but def stopped the leak till the spring.
many thanks to all , and thanks to Aaron for the step by step, I appreciate it.[img][img]http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo63 ... 6_0912.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo63 ... 6_0914.jpg[/img][/img]
1983 10 meter express
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paint that fibreglass
I did mine on Monday. Raw fibreglass is porous, I would take the time to paint the bilges. 

F36 ~
SHES SOLDDDDDD
SHES SOLDDDDDD
- guglielmo6160
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