All,
Sorry to ask such new questions but this is my first winter owning a large boat like this. I'm being hauled out on the 24th but was going to winterize the water system and heads myself this weekend.
My thoughts was to purchase about 10-15 gallons of pink anti-freeze and drop that into my fresh water holding system to pump through all my hot and cold water lines using the pressure system. Is that the correct way to do this? I would imagine this also fills the hot water heater too? should i do this and then drain the heater?
Heads are pumped from the lake so do i just drop a gallon down each and dry pump it to the holding tank then have the tank emptied? I would assume the water in the lines going to the heads will drop out once its pulled out of the water. I was also thinking i could disconnect the lake feed to the heads and connect a hose to a gallon of pink to pump it in that way. I replaced seals on my heads this past week and it said something about a certian type of anti-freeze to use, (No Glycoal i think it said).
Engines and Genny i just left to the marina, at $45 each + anti-freeze i figured this year i will pay for it. I'm going to put some fuel stabilizer in the tanks and run them this weekend, including the genny which should be good there.
Outside of pulling the batteries after she is hauled out anything else? should i drop a little pink down the drains incase there are low spots in the drain pipes for the sinks?
Tips and tricks would be great! Thanks for your help all.
Winterizing Questions
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
Winterizing Questions
Aaron
____________________________
1975 36' Tri Cabin
"Keep it up!"
E-Mail : aweimer@comcast.net
Lake Erie, OH
http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g39 ... 20It%20Up/
____________________________
1975 36' Tri Cabin
"Keep it up!"
E-Mail : aweimer@comcast.net
Lake Erie, OH
http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g39 ... 20It%20Up/
Hi Aaron,
I wish that was all my marina got to winterize an engine. Our marina gets 250.00 for each big block engine and 145.00 to winterize the generator. Needless to say I do it all myself. I blow air through the water system to get all the water out and then put anti freeze in. I also use 100 degree for the sanitation system as well as all engines. I usually put 2 gallons through each head after pumping out. I use 50 degree on the water system. Don't forget to pull the drain plugs. Remember to replace them in the Spring. That's always been my biggest fear. LOL Good luck and remember, Spring is coming.
Wes
I wish that was all my marina got to winterize an engine. Our marina gets 250.00 for each big block engine and 145.00 to winterize the generator. Needless to say I do it all myself. I blow air through the water system to get all the water out and then put anti freeze in. I also use 100 degree for the sanitation system as well as all engines. I usually put 2 gallons through each head after pumping out. I use 50 degree on the water system. Don't forget to pull the drain plugs. Remember to replace them in the Spring. That's always been my biggest fear. LOL Good luck and remember, Spring is coming.
Wes
You don't want to fill your hot water tank with pink stuff- too expensive and you'll never get the taste or smell out of your water.
Splurge for a bypass setup that costs about $20, which allows you to turn two valves and effectively cut your hot water tank out of the pressurized loop, or alternatively disconnect the hot and cold water lines and connect them together with a couple of plumbing fittings. Either way, you drain the tank. I put a short length of clear hose on the tank drain which I snake down past the floor of the hot water closet, and drain into the bilge.
I only use a couple of gallons of pink stuff to winterize my freshwater system. I disconnect the hose from the water tank and connect it to a jug of the pink stuff, turn on the pump, and when the system is pressurized I open each faucet (hot and cold) and let the water run until pink stuff comes out. Don't forget the shower. I pour some down each drain, and, since my toilet is fresh water, I flush until the bowl is full of pink stuff.
If you have a hookup for city water, you have to get that winterized also. I use an air tank with a special fitting sold at RV stores to get the water out of that line. Some people use air to blow out all the lines to the faucets, but I'm afraid some water will be trapped and split my lines.
When I take the hose off the outlet from the main water tank, I let the tank drain completely rather than put in antifreeze.
Splurge for a bypass setup that costs about $20, which allows you to turn two valves and effectively cut your hot water tank out of the pressurized loop, or alternatively disconnect the hot and cold water lines and connect them together with a couple of plumbing fittings. Either way, you drain the tank. I put a short length of clear hose on the tank drain which I snake down past the floor of the hot water closet, and drain into the bilge.
I only use a couple of gallons of pink stuff to winterize my freshwater system. I disconnect the hose from the water tank and connect it to a jug of the pink stuff, turn on the pump, and when the system is pressurized I open each faucet (hot and cold) and let the water run until pink stuff comes out. Don't forget the shower. I pour some down each drain, and, since my toilet is fresh water, I flush until the bowl is full of pink stuff.
If you have a hookup for city water, you have to get that winterized also. I use an air tank with a special fitting sold at RV stores to get the water out of that line. Some people use air to blow out all the lines to the faucets, but I'm afraid some water will be trapped and split my lines.
When I take the hose off the outlet from the main water tank, I let the tank drain completely rather than put in antifreeze.
Don't fill your hot water heater with antifreeze unless you want pink hot KoolAid all next summer. I have heard that putting anti in a heater can damage it and on one of my friends heater there is a lable warning not to use anti. Save the coin and the smell. I plumbed the entire boat with less than 4 jugs.
First drain the tank, use the pump and out a drain. Disconnect the input to the pump and I have a short hose made up that connects to the pump and drops into a jug of anti.
Disconnect cold water at the heater, turn on the pump and stop when you see pink. Plug the tube.
Drain the heater. A short tube from the lower fitting to a bucket saves cleaning out the bilge.
Turn one cold tap on then turn on the pump, a couple seconds you'll see pink....shut off the pump. Close that cold tap and open the next. Repeat with the pump until all the cold lines are done.
By this time the heater should be empty. I then back flow from a sink thru the hot line to the heater untill I see pink coming from the lower fitting. This mixes a little anti with the water that will not drain completely from the heater.
A splash in the toilet and pump it thru to the hold tank. And I disconnect the intake hose at the toilet and back flow to the seacock. This is because a prior owner changed the intake hose and made it sweep up above the water line so there will always be water trapped.
A couple jugs go in the fresh water tank and we're done.
Some people use compressed air to blow out the lines. I don't trust that all the water is out and some will pool and cause troubles with freezing.
First drain the tank, use the pump and out a drain. Disconnect the input to the pump and I have a short hose made up that connects to the pump and drops into a jug of anti.
Disconnect cold water at the heater, turn on the pump and stop when you see pink. Plug the tube.
Drain the heater. A short tube from the lower fitting to a bucket saves cleaning out the bilge.
Turn one cold tap on then turn on the pump, a couple seconds you'll see pink....shut off the pump. Close that cold tap and open the next. Repeat with the pump until all the cold lines are done.
By this time the heater should be empty. I then back flow from a sink thru the hot line to the heater untill I see pink coming from the lower fitting. This mixes a little anti with the water that will not drain completely from the heater.
A splash in the toilet and pump it thru to the hold tank. And I disconnect the intake hose at the toilet and back flow to the seacock. This is because a prior owner changed the intake hose and made it sweep up above the water line so there will always be water trapped.
A couple jugs go in the fresh water tank and we're done.
Some people use compressed air to blow out the lines. I don't trust that all the water is out and some will pool and cause troubles with freezing.
1989 F-32
Penetang,
Georgian Bay
Penetang,
Georgian Bay
-
TADTOOMUCH
- Moderate User
- Posts: 526
- Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:58 am
- Location: S.W. Michigan
Winterizing
I leave the engine winterization to the storage yard. $75 per engine and if it freezes they are responsible.
I drain the fresh water tank by taking the hose off the tank and let it drain into bilge. I don't put anything into the fresh water tank. I just leave it open. Next I connect the water heater inlet to the outlet with a length of Hose and two clamps. I open the drain to the water heater and drain it into the bilge and leave the drain valve open. The hose I just took off the fresh water tank, I stick into a jug of 50 below pink stuff and pump it through the system with the shower head open into the drain in the shower and turn on the shower sump pump. When pink comes out the shower through hull I shut it off. Then I turn on the hot water in the head sink until I see pink. Then I turn on the cold until I see pink. Next i go back to the galley and do the same with each hot an cold. Last is the head. I have a fresh water head so I flush the head until I see pink water coming into the head and then I add about a 1/2 gallon to the head and flush it into the tank. I have the holding tank pumped out first.
For the AC system I shut off the sea cock and disconnect the hose from it. I hook up the hose into two gallons of 100 below antifreeze and turn on the system until I see dark red fluid coming out the through hull. I then open the sea strainer and leave it open. After the boat is out of the water I pour some antifreeze into the sea cock and open the drain on the side of the valve until fluid comes out. Then I open the sea cock partially and drain the rest of the antifreeze fluid.
I drain the fresh water tank by taking the hose off the tank and let it drain into bilge. I don't put anything into the fresh water tank. I just leave it open. Next I connect the water heater inlet to the outlet with a length of Hose and two clamps. I open the drain to the water heater and drain it into the bilge and leave the drain valve open. The hose I just took off the fresh water tank, I stick into a jug of 50 below pink stuff and pump it through the system with the shower head open into the drain in the shower and turn on the shower sump pump. When pink comes out the shower through hull I shut it off. Then I turn on the hot water in the head sink until I see pink. Then I turn on the cold until I see pink. Next i go back to the galley and do the same with each hot an cold. Last is the head. I have a fresh water head so I flush the head until I see pink water coming into the head and then I add about a 1/2 gallon to the head and flush it into the tank. I have the holding tank pumped out first.
For the AC system I shut off the sea cock and disconnect the hose from it. I hook up the hose into two gallons of 100 below antifreeze and turn on the system until I see dark red fluid coming out the through hull. I then open the sea strainer and leave it open. After the boat is out of the water I pour some antifreeze into the sea cock and open the drain on the side of the valve until fluid comes out. Then I open the sea cock partially and drain the rest of the antifreeze fluid.
Boat Name: A TAD TOO MUCH
Model: 1978 F-32 Sedan Cruiser
Engines: Twin Chry 360's 666 hrs original engines
2013 Mercury 300 Ocean Runner 9.9hp Merc 4 stroke
Model: 1978 F-32 Sedan Cruiser
Engines: Twin Chry 360's 666 hrs original engines
2013 Mercury 300 Ocean Runner 9.9hp Merc 4 stroke
If your toilet uses raw water to flush, you will need to winterize the water pump in the toilet. Disconnect the intake hose from the seacock. Put it in a gallon jug of pink antifreeze and flush the toilet until pink comes out into the bowl.
Think about everything that water will damage when it freezes. Raw water wash down pump, shower drain pump, ice maker (Make sure to run the icemaker through enough cycles to get pink antifreeze into the freezing tray.), or bilge pumps that are in standing water after the drain plug is removed. I unclip the pump and place it out of any water.
Think about everything that water will damage when it freezes. Raw water wash down pump, shower drain pump, ice maker (Make sure to run the icemaker through enough cycles to get pink antifreeze into the freezing tray.), or bilge pumps that are in standing water after the drain plug is removed. I unclip the pump and place it out of any water.
Gerry
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
I have a 74 Tricabin, so yours may be a little different.
Don't forget your AC unit(s).
Mine are plumbed with a single pump into 2 different units.
I pull the seacock intake tube (located at bottom of steps by entrance to the V-Berth) and insert tube into a full gallon of pink antifreeze.
Then turn on the unit and let it pump through. (just the pump, not the condensor unit. Single click on the dial....)
I usually use 2 gallons on this step (2 bottles), but that may vary on how many units you have.
I usually drain the FW system totally by opening up the hot water heater relief valve, all the faucets, shower, etc... and then unhooking the pipes/ hoses at the lowest point in the boat. Which in my case, is in the front bilge compartment nearest to the front head. I actually installed bypass valves there just for this purpose. Leave all the valves / faucets, etc... open.
I don't blow air through the pipes / hoses, but it couldn't hurt.
I do NOT use antifreeze in the FW system.
A little down the heads, and presto, you're pretty much there.
I know on my boat ALL drains are pretty much straight shots out the side of the boat, so there is really no need to pour pink stuff down them, it will simply go right out the side.
EXCEPTION would be shower drain if you have a pump in-line (which you should). Pour some down there and let it cycle through a bit.
On your "raw water" toilets:
When you pull your boat, the seacocks will be open, and all water in the tubes will drain back down into the lake, bay, etc....
Then just flush the "bowl" water out and you should be all set.
If you are in doubt about anything, unhook the pipe or tube that it is connected to it and leave it unhooked.
Just remember to hook it back up in the spring before turning the water back on!
It's not so much the ice that kills everything, it's the pressure caused by the ice expanding with nowhere to go.
Don't forget your AC unit(s).
Mine are plumbed with a single pump into 2 different units.
I pull the seacock intake tube (located at bottom of steps by entrance to the V-Berth) and insert tube into a full gallon of pink antifreeze.
Then turn on the unit and let it pump through. (just the pump, not the condensor unit. Single click on the dial....)
I usually use 2 gallons on this step (2 bottles), but that may vary on how many units you have.
I usually drain the FW system totally by opening up the hot water heater relief valve, all the faucets, shower, etc... and then unhooking the pipes/ hoses at the lowest point in the boat. Which in my case, is in the front bilge compartment nearest to the front head. I actually installed bypass valves there just for this purpose. Leave all the valves / faucets, etc... open.
I don't blow air through the pipes / hoses, but it couldn't hurt.
I do NOT use antifreeze in the FW system.
A little down the heads, and presto, you're pretty much there.
I know on my boat ALL drains are pretty much straight shots out the side of the boat, so there is really no need to pour pink stuff down them, it will simply go right out the side.
EXCEPTION would be shower drain if you have a pump in-line (which you should). Pour some down there and let it cycle through a bit.
On your "raw water" toilets:
When you pull your boat, the seacocks will be open, and all water in the tubes will drain back down into the lake, bay, etc....
Then just flush the "bowl" water out and you should be all set.
If you are in doubt about anything, unhook the pipe or tube that it is connected to it and leave it unhooked.
Just remember to hook it back up in the spring before turning the water back on!
It's not so much the ice that kills everything, it's the pressure caused by the ice expanding with nowhere to go.
Thanks all for the tips. I'm going to take care of this over the weekend.
Aaron
____________________________
1975 36' Tri Cabin
"Keep it up!"
E-Mail : aweimer@comcast.net
Lake Erie, OH
http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g39 ... 20It%20Up/
____________________________
1975 36' Tri Cabin
"Keep it up!"
E-Mail : aweimer@comcast.net
Lake Erie, OH
http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g39 ... 20It%20Up/
Here Here!!!!Jerry wrote:Just because ''5 guys give you 6 different answers'' does not mean that they are incorrect. There is more than one way to skin a cat!TC wrote:Typical of "do it yourselfers". Ask 5 guys, you get 6 answers.
So read, explore and you'll be the 7th.
More information is always better then less.
Gerry
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
you have no freeze issues up north on the left coastwowzer52 wrote:He didn't say wrong, he said different, and they are all good answers. Some of those things I haven't thought of because I use my boat year round but if I do decide to winterize all of those answers will come in handy. Thank you guys for the great info.
TIKI III
1985 F32
270 Crusaders
Wet and happy
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak ... 9727_n.jpg
1985 F32
270 Crusaders
Wet and happy
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak ... 9727_n.jpg
