Somebody finally made fake teak that looks pretty good out of PVC.
http://www.flexiteek.com/category.php?categoryID=35
I get more comments about the teak & holly floor I put in the salon than anything else on my boat. I haven't priced this stuff yet, but it would look great for little accents topside. If it's not that bad $, I might put it over the whole cockpit. If a lot, I'll just accent the dive platform or something.
my boat:
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/ ... id=1580496
Tony in Fort Myers, FL
1982 F-36
Funky new fake teak panels
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Funky new fake teak panels
Last edited by JuiceClark on Sun Apr 22, 2007 3:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Imron
I bought the boat with the dark blue hull. It was done with Awlgrip and I'm not impressed with it. It scratches easily and the last guy must have spilled some kind of acid on it or something because in one little spot you can see splotches.
I painted my last boat with Imron so I know how tough it is...really like it. I went to a chain store called "FinishMasters" and bought a gallon of Imron and had them make it a little off-white. I hate it when a boat is blindingly white!
Anyway, I "rolled and tipped" the topside myself. The store will sell you a hardener for the paint that works more slowly for this process. I actually used the Awlgrip brand of "rolling hardener" for my Imron. You just mix a little, roll it on and then immediately go back and give gentle upward strokes with a very fine brush. It's pretty easy...you'll be surprised. The prep is the hard part. Make sure to wipe the areas with mineral spirits really good before you paint.
Here's a video how to do it - click middle page/ right side for the instruction video:
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa//product_ ... eID=6660#1
Oh yeah...one last thing. Do this when it's fairly cool out...sets-up too fast when hot and in the sun. Also, avoid a windy day or when there's bugs around. Those bastards loved to get stuck in the paint.
The whole job costed about $400...a far cry from the $20,000 I was quoted from the crooks at the marina. It's a boat...not the Mona Lisa!
I painted my last boat with Imron so I know how tough it is...really like it. I went to a chain store called "FinishMasters" and bought a gallon of Imron and had them make it a little off-white. I hate it when a boat is blindingly white!
Anyway, I "rolled and tipped" the topside myself. The store will sell you a hardener for the paint that works more slowly for this process. I actually used the Awlgrip brand of "rolling hardener" for my Imron. You just mix a little, roll it on and then immediately go back and give gentle upward strokes with a very fine brush. It's pretty easy...you'll be surprised. The prep is the hard part. Make sure to wipe the areas with mineral spirits really good before you paint.
Here's a video how to do it - click middle page/ right side for the instruction video:
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa//product_ ... eID=6660#1
Oh yeah...one last thing. Do this when it's fairly cool out...sets-up too fast when hot and in the sun. Also, avoid a windy day or when there's bugs around. Those bastards loved to get stuck in the paint.
The whole job costed about $400...a far cry from the $20,000 I was quoted from the crooks at the marina. It's a boat...not the Mona Lisa!
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Juice-if you don't mind my two cents worth--you can slow the cure rate down of paints and coatings if you keep them in a cool place, don't store them in a warm place prior to our during use.
Also on the plastic teak-I'm always hestant of using plastics in an application like this. The dimensional stability of plastics tends to be a problem-or rather lack thereof. When some of the plastic lumber products hit the market they were all the rage. But unfortunatley problems with dimensional stability-expansion and contraction when subjected to thermal changes has been a problem.
Also on the plastic teak-I'm always hestant of using plastics in an application like this. The dimensional stability of plastics tends to be a problem-or rather lack thereof. When some of the plastic lumber products hit the market they were all the rage. But unfortunatley problems with dimensional stability-expansion and contraction when subjected to thermal changes has been a problem.
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good point!
You know, I never thought to store the paint and hardener in the A/C before doing the job. That makes a lot of sense...wish I knew that then!
I haven't seen this stuff up close yet. I think it's a very thin, decorative layer though. I have an inkling it's like 1/4 inch starboard molded and colored like teak. My dive platform is painted and too slippery...will start there and see what happens in a couple years of blistering FL sunshine.
I haven't seen this stuff up close yet. I think it's a very thin, decorative layer though. I have an inkling it's like 1/4 inch starboard molded and colored like teak. My dive platform is painted and too slippery...will start there and see what happens in a couple years of blistering FL sunshine.
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Another Option on Teak & Holly.. and a question
Juice is always looking for great deals and he finds some great ones..
Here is an option for teak and holly for the inside.. as Juice said it makes a big difference.. What did you use on the inside for your floor Juice?
http://www.worldpanel.com/marinelam.htm
Also there is a Norwegian company that makes a vinyl sheeting - Marinette uses them.. they only sell the white in the USA .. but make a "new teak" vinyl in Europe.. I keep looking on eBay to see if I can find anybody that will ship to the US..
http://www.ostersjokompaniet.se/default ... ProdID=398
There is another Vinyl product - $45 a linear foot 6' wide
http://www.ttcustommarine.citymax.com/c ... 380967.htm
..
Here is an option for teak and holly for the inside.. as Juice said it makes a big difference.. What did you use on the inside for your floor Juice?
http://www.worldpanel.com/marinelam.htm
Also there is a Norwegian company that makes a vinyl sheeting - Marinette uses them.. they only sell the white in the USA .. but make a "new teak" vinyl in Europe.. I keep looking on eBay to see if I can find anybody that will ship to the US..
http://www.ostersjokompaniet.se/default ... ProdID=398
There is another Vinyl product - $45 a linear foot 6' wide
http://www.ttcustommarine.citymax.com/c ... 380967.htm
..
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I'm learnin'!
I used the real teak and holly plywood for the salon floor...bought it from a local lumber dealer.
It took 4 pieces of 4'x8' half-inch thick to cover the salon and the hallway down below. I think I paid $175 per sheet...which was way too much. But I'm learnin' all the time with these little projects. Cheaper is better, lighter is better and plastic is usually better than wood, especially inside.
It took 4 pieces of 4'x8' half-inch thick to cover the salon and the hallway down below. I think I paid $175 per sheet...which was way too much. But I'm learnin' all the time with these little projects. Cheaper is better, lighter is better and plastic is usually better than wood, especially inside.
Nice
Looks great - I'm thinking of using this to drop the glare in my 26 Chaparral.
Might even do the bathroom floor @ home!
Might even do the bathroom floor @ home!

Captain Ross, 2009 Trojan Boater of the Year
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17

"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17
