a/c under the seat

[Coralkong]

I like the idea, too.

Always nice to save yourself over A THOUSAND DOLLARS!

Reminds me of the time everyone told me I couldn't install a car stereo in the cockpit because it would rot out in no time...
Well, I accidentally sprayed the first unit after 2 years with a hose, and sure enough, it quit working.
Bought the same brand unit (JVC) and plugged into the housing of the old one ($79)

Total cost so far = $160 (for 2 units). STILL cheaper than a "marine" unit. About 1/3 the price of one with equivalent features and power/sound specs.

Years in service = 6+

I say "Go for it".

[jimbo36]

Aside from the unconventional Non-Marine equipment use, which lacks good seamanship and adds nothing to the value of the vessel, it is very important not to substitute marine parts for household or automotive parts or you could suffer great loss or, in some cases, even death.

[rickalan35]

After buying two marine heat pump units and a portable carry aboard suitcase unit (all miserable failures) I opted two years ago for two of the type of units that Prowlerfish has mentioned in this chain of posts.

Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:14 am Post subject:
Another Idea would be a portable type A/C unit that uses a hose to vent the hot air out side . This would do exactly what you what at a cost just a little more then a window unit. The only draw back is it may take up too much room . You may not be looking for advice But I would hate to see you do all that work only to have something that won't work . I have seen window units installed in boats ( I have done 2) . I have seen them done in ways you would not believe , some work some do not.

this is the type of unit I am talking about that vents outside you can find similar types at Lowe's and home depot and many other places
http://www.air-conditioner-home.com/Soleus-PE2-07R-62DB/

As I own a Tri-Cabin, I have room in the large locker situated across from the bathroom door for one the salon unit (9,000 BTU). The second unit (9,000) is in the rear bedroom behind the steps that descend from the back door.

These two units are wired into separate and dedicated locations on the breaker panel (like the stove). I had an electrician come by and rewire the boat in order to be able to draw the power.

Both units draw their "inlet" air from within the boat and exhaust the heated air outside via the exhaust hose.

Each unit came with it's own exhaust hose and I have run this hose up and connected to the rear of two stock "Air Circulation" vents already designed into the boat.

You can step onto the dock and place your hand over the chrome vents and feel the hot air blowing forcefully out.

Both units cool admirably.

In some Marinas I can run only one at a time.

As most here already know, on a warm day or night that rear bedroom of a Tri-Cabin can get pretty warm after a cruise because the engines are back there. I have re-insulated the engine compartments and I find that if I turn the rear air conditioner up full blast for 20 minutes or so and go for a walk, I'll come back to a cold bedroom.

The only other thing I did was insulate and re-naugahide the ceiling in the salon because the sun beating down made cooling difficult. Insulation did the trick.

With the generator on (when anchored out overnight) I only run one of them and not if I'm cooking. Fridge is new and doesn't seem impacted by the AC.

Hope this helps. I mainly wrote this to agree with Prowlerfish's suggestion from personal experience.

Thanks

Rick

[9rock]

Aside from the unconventional Non-Marine equipment use, which lacks good seamanship and adds nothing to the value of the vessel, it is very important not to substitute marine parts for household or automotive parts or you could suffer great loss or, in some cases, even death.

I agree to some extent always error on the side of caution
a good example would be spark plugs marine cost 4 dollars same plug auto 2 dollars.
In the case of the a/c if it works it will add some value that can be recouped adding a marine a/c would never recoupe the cost
I could go on for ever with a list of supplies parts and add ons that cross over but if they have to do with electric or fuel I would do extensive home work before I switched from marine grade

9

[9rock]

After buying two marine heat pump units and a portable carry aboard suitcase unit (all miserable failures) I opted two years ago for two of the type of units that Prowlerfish has mentioned in this chain of posts.

Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:14 am Post subject:
Another Idea would be a portable type A/C unit that uses a hose to vent the hot air out side . This would do exactly what you what at a cost just a little more then a window unit. The only draw back is it may take up too much room . You may not be looking for advice But I would hate to see you do all that work only to have something that won't work . I have seen window units installed in boats ( I have done 2) . I have seen them done in ways you would not believe , some work some do not.

this is the type of unit I am talking about that vents outside you can find similar types at Lowe's and home depot and many other places
http://www.air-conditioner-home.com/Soleus-PE2-07R-62DB/

As I own a Tri-Cabin, I have room in the large locker situated across from the bathroom door for one the salon unit (9,000 BTU). The second unit (9,000) is in the rear bedroom behind the steps that descend from the back door.

These two units are wired into separate and dedicated locations on the breaker panel (like the stove). I had an electrician come by and rewire the boat in order to be able to draw the power.

Both units draw their "inlet" air from within the boat and exhaust the heated air outside via the exhaust hose.

Each unit came with it's own exhaust hose and I have run this hose up and connected to the rear of two stock "Air Circulation" vents already designed into the boat.

You can step onto the dock and place your hand over the chrome vents and feel the hot air blowing forcefully out.

Both units cool admirably.

In some Marinas I can run only one at a time.

As most here already know, on a warm day or night that rear bedroom of a Tri-Cabin can get pretty warm after a cruise because the engines are back there. I have re-insulated the engine compartments and I find that if I turn the rear air conditioner up full blast for 20 minutes or so and go for a walk, I'll come back to a cold bedroom.

The only other thing I did was insulate and re-naugahide the ceiling in the salon because the sun beating down made cooling difficult. Insulation did the trick.

With the generator on (when anchored out overnight) I only run one of them and not if I'm cooking. Fridge is new and doesn't seem impacted by the AC.

Hope this helps. I mainly wrote this to agree with Prowlerfish's suggestion from personal experience.

Thanks

Rick

my first thought was to go that rout but after building out the dinett I realized I created a chase , I was in a thrift store yesterday and they had three nice little units 50bucks a piece so not worried about losing much money, I like the challenge not because i was challenged but because I like to do projects that are tough keeps me from getting bored

what is the function difference between a compact
and a window unit

9

[guglielmo6160]

you guys crack me up lol. never seen a group of guys beat a subject to death like this,lol its a freakin a/c,, lol walk it off

[Coralkong]

Aside from the unconventional Non-Marine equipment use, which lacks good seamanship and adds nothing to the value of the vessel, it is very important not to substitute marine parts for household or automotive parts or you could suffer great loss or, in some cases, even death.

"Good Seamanship?" Really?
Perhaps not good asthetics, but how does an air conditioner have any bearing whatsoever on one's seamanship?

As for adding value to the boat, have you seen boat prices lately? These old Trojans aren't going up in value, and probably never will....maintainability is the key. Sometimes a $79 fix is fine, especially if it works.


Yes, anything in the bilge needs to be ignition protected, couldn't agree more. You need a marine fuel pump, ignition-protected battery charger, USCG approved fuel hoses, bilge blowers, etc... etc....
I don't recall seeing anything in the USCG regulations pertaining to air conditioning.

[Stripermann2]

Come on....if you keep your cool, you have good seamanship.
Hot headed... and we're just boaters!

Gosh, don't you know anything?

[captainmaniac]

[quote="CoralkongYes, anything in the bilge needs to be ignition protected, couldn't agree more. You need a marine fuel pump, ignition-protected battery charger, USCG approved fuel hoses, bilge blowers, etc... etc....
I don't recall seeing anything in the USCG regulations pertaining to air conditioning.[/quote]

ANY electronic or electrical device exposed to the bilge area needs to be ignition protected - it doesn't matter what it's there for. The USCG regulations only lists the things that people would normally put down there.

[jimbo36]

carolkong, I guess good seamanship is a frame of mind. You have it, or you don't. One skipper may take the time to properly whip a line end, while another pulls out a cigarette lighter and burns it. And yes, installing any electrical equipment on a boat that isn't properly approved is not a good idea. And the motivation? to save money.

There is "added value", and I agree that a new a/c installation will not return the investment, but there is also the value of a "saleable" boat. Most knowledgeable buyers would walk from a boat that has been carved up to accomodate non-marine equipment and impressed with one that is 100% marine. Me thinks that has something to do with value.

Even USCG regulations can't always instill common sense. Chapmans anyone? jimbo36

[captainmaniac]

I know what you mean by the Chapman's reference... but I have feeling there will be some reading this who will be wondering why you are asking about ice cream...

[turtlem1969]

I have never put the book and ice cream together until now, amazing how some people associate things.

[9rock]

carolkong, I guess good seamanship is a frame of mind. You have it, or you don't. One skipper may take the time to properly whip a line end, while another pulls out a cigarette lighter and burns it. And yes, installing any electrical equipment on a boat that isn't properly approved is not a good idea. And the motivation? to save money.

There is "added value", and I agree that a new a/c installation will not return the investment, but there is also the value of a "saleable" boat. Most knowledgeable buyers would walk from a boat that has been carved up to accomodate non-marine equipment and impressed with one that is 100% marine. Me thinks that has something to do with value.

Even USCG regulations can't always instill common sense. Chapmans anyone? jimbo36

First off chopping up a boat is one thing upgrading it is on other
IMHO the boat was chopped up when it was built if my carpenters built the inside of that boat the way it is I would fire all of them , design is poor craftsman ship is poor at best so upgrading on the layout and quality is no great accomplishment

The fact of the matter is only a very small % of the recreational boaters even know what seamanship is never mind use it
we dont navigator boats with a sextant, burn oil lamps ,listen to sw radios
we have gps light bulbs and listen to fm cd radios
we live in a world of practicality and comfortability
If its comfortable practical and safe good seaman ship has been used

9

[Coralkong]

Seamanship
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
Seamanship is the art of operating a ship or boat.

It involves a knowledge of a variety of topics and development of specialised skills including: navigation and international maritime law; weather, meteorology and forecasting; watchstanding; ship-handling and small boat handling; operation of deck equipment, anchors and cables; ropework and line handling; communications; sailing; engines; execution of evolutions such as towing; cargo handling equipment, dangerous cargoes and cargo storage; dealing with emergencies; survival at sea and search and rescue; fire fighting.

The degree of knowledge needed within these areas is dependent upon the nature of the work and the type of vessel employed by a mariner. However, the practice of good seamanship should be the goal of all.




It's not my boat, so I don't really care one way or the other. I just think it is a neat idea, that could be done.

I HAVE marine air in my boat (2 of them actually), and parts are expensive. Let me tell you a little story about the airconditioner water pump.
It says MARINE on it and costs $329 from a marine store (online or whatever). I know this because I ordered one.
When I recieved it, it's THE SAME PUMP that I can buy online for $149 for a fish-tank. The pump is made by Little Giant, and I know this because I used to run a fishtank maintenance business and used the SAME pumps all the time. The electrical connections inside the pump are sealed in epoxy, making it safe for fishtank use, and coincidentally, it makes it ignition protected as well.
Needless to say, I wasn't amused, but I used the pump, JUST because it had the marine brand name on it and the little sticker saying "ignition protected".

I don't want to argue with anyone on what Seamanship is or isn't, or if it is wise or foolish to "carve up" your boat to install a home air conditioning unit or whatever.

What I AM saying is simply that because we get taken to the CLEANERS every time we order something that says "Marine" on it, I don't mind picking my battles to try to save some dough. Don't tell anyone, but when I replaced my spark plugs and wires in my boat I paid $75 total for 16 plugs and 18 wires (2 for the distributor caps!). The same parts for "Marine Rated" I priced out at almost $300. For spark plug wires and plugs! Give me a break! I had an oil hose made up. $30 for one for a car, USCG approved hose = $80! (Yes, I used the USCG approved hose).

If I ever have to replace the air conditioners in my boat, I will look at all my options. $3-$4K (for 2 compressor units) or a couple of portable units for $600?
On a boat that is almost as old as I am, it's going to be a tough choice.

Again, I don't want to argue with anyone.....
Everyone have a nice day!


Trojans are great OLD boats. They don't make the new boats like that anymore. On a couple of levels, there's a DAMNED good reason they don't make them like they used to......

If you use common sense, follow the USCG rules on ignition protected circuits, etc.... you should be fine.

Have a good one guys.

[prowlersfish]

I guess is do you want it right or or do you want it cheap ? It may work but mayhave othe issues .One thing on the idea of the venting of the hot air is that air will be very humid in a closed area ( no light ) will there be a mold or mildew problem ?