Cutless bearing R&R

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:13 pm

I had a bit of play in one of my cutless bearings so it was time to replace it. I had read on here about a Pro-Strut tool that could be purchased or rented, but as it turns out I called the company and they do not rent. The tool is first class, but at a price of $800.00 for the kit plus shipping it better be. I decided to pass.
I also did not feel like pulling the shaft so that left me with removing the strut which I did today. Not a very easy job.
The 8 nuts loosened fairly easy and that was when the fun started. With the help of a 5lb hammer and a 3' length of brass rod, I was able to finally pound them out of the bottom of the boat. At that point the strut still acted like it was bolted on but that I did not want to pound on.
I ended up using a 5' pry bar tapped under the strut to get it off. It took some work but I guess it was well worth it as once back to the shop, it took about 10 minutes to press the old bearing out. Nice and easy.
I hope it goes back together easier than it came apart. Now for the big question, Do I also do the port side even though it is nice and tight?

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:28 pm

I wouldn't. If it is nice and tight it likely was replaced before ,at the time the one you are doing now was probably tight.. They usually last a very long time. Unless you want to even the score

Jimbo36

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:08 pm

I agree with Jimbo... I am not a big fan of introducing any more opportunities for new leaks than absolutely necessary... Don't pull the second strut (ie leave the other bearing alone) until / unless you have to do it.

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:33 pm

I think you guys are right and I will leave the other one alone until I have to replace it. I have enough to keep me busy as it is.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:31 pm

the firm tht makes the strut puller told me they would cell the device for 395 for a specific size, I did not prict the whole kit. However they also told me they would rent it. I guess I talked to a different person. One can make his own I have an article where a fellow did just that and removed it without any problem.[/img]

rickalan35 · Post by **rickalan35** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 9:57 pm

Is it an "old wives tale" to soak the replacement bearing in chopped ice for 3 or 4 hours before tapping it back into the strut??? ..... this process I would assume shrinks the new bearing (brass) however slightly, thus enabling an easier refit. True or false?

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:16 am

True, however dry ice works better. This is common practice when assembling crank shaft bearings in presses. Freeze the bearings to contract them and heat the casting that they will be installed in to expand it. What is normally an interference fit will slip together fairly easily using this method. Be sure to wear gloves though, dry ice can do nasty things to skin.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:26 am

For reference, the struts can be replaced in the water. I did it 2 years ago, with my diver's assistance. Piece of cake. The 5200 bedding compound is cured by moisture, so you have to work fast, but you want to anyway, when you have 6 wooden dowel pins keeping the water out of the boat!

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:50 pm

rickalan35 wrote:Is it an "old wives tale" to soak the replacement bearing in chopped ice for 3 or 4 hours before tapping it back into the strut??? ..... this process I would assume shrinks the new bearing (brass) however slightly, thus enabling an easier refit. True or false?

===============================

it's done with the wheel bearing races on big trucks and in machine shops all the time.

RWS

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:26 pm

I received the new bearing today and the box had a big warning on it.... It states not to use dry ice as it will break the bond between the rubber and brass. According to the info that came with the bearing, you do not want to cool it any lower than 28F.
I just had to laugh. West Marine wanted $229.00 for this bearing. It pays to shop around.

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 4:08 pm

For future use where did you locate the replacement?
also here's a great location for removal and replacement.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass

Rodman · Post by **Rodman** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 8:20 pm

Dan Faith wrote:For future use where did you locate the replacement?
also here's a great location for removal and replacement.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass

That is same method I used to install my bearing. I used a saw - saw to cut it inside the strut.

This is where I bought mine. It was $40.00 Free shipping.

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/prod ... aring.aspx

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:08 am

Deep Blue did have the best price that I was able to find also, and they were at $79.99 for mine.
It is hard to believe that West Marine is almost three times that. Up until last year if you had a Port Supply account with West you would save a lot of money. Not anymore.

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:31 am

Seems like When West Marine aquired Boat US they bought the competion. I alway look elsewhere first and seldom buy from West Marine.

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