This forum is for comments and the exchange of information relating to Trojan Boats and boating. Please do not post used parts or boats For Sale in this area. For general, non-boating topics please use our "General Discussions" section.
Note: Negative or inflammatory postings will not be tolerated.
attached the drive shaft flange to the transmission flange on port side and the two tighten up flush together. I tighten the starboard drive shaft flange to the transmission flange and don't tighten up flush. Small space between. The engine not wobbling and no noticeable vibration just yet (haven't run close to WOT yet due to wave conditions). It appears very small movement in shaft log on starboard side that I don't see on port side. Could have been there before I took apart, not sure.
Seperated the trnas and drive shaft flanges and cannot see what is stopping them from going together. Very frustrating. If there was small space on both sides, (port and starboard) it wouldn't phase me. I don't know if this is the way it was before I took apart. The pics show a playing card that fits between on starboard side. Card doesn't fit in port side.
When you took it apart did you mark it so both flanges mated to the same holes when lined up? It could be bent couplings when put together last time. also if you pull apart that is how you check alignment rotate and see if the condition exists when you rotate or you may see that one of the flanges are bent.
Dan Faith
Toy Box
Trojan F32
Trojan 30' sport fisherman
Sea Ray 17'
Beach Craft Bonanza N35
Corvette
I sanded both sides with 400 grit, I don't know if it made a difference but they mate up pretty well on both sides.
I wouldn't sweat it, it's not like it can move anywhere. If the bolts are tight and the gap is even, I think you're fine.
Did you go through the alignment process? I'm doing that now on one side, it was off enough that I couldn't get the bolt holes aligned. I'm doing a "rough" alignment until it can sit in the slip for a couple of days.
i didn't do an alignment process. I assume you are referring to moving the engine using shims or the mounting bolts until flanges equal distance apart. I didn't move the engines at all. I don't think (hope) you should have to if you just unbolted the the trans flange from the shaft flange.
The crusader manual says to check every year with feeler gauge and adjust if neccessary. Also, to unbolt the flanges for winter storage. No one ever does either of those things. But that would be the correct way to do it. I gotta get a feeler gauge to check the gap between my flanges on the starbird side where they don't butt up against each other flush. I believe they will be close to equal b/c engine not wobbling.
Can't tell from the picture what is wrong but I do know that incorrectly assembled couplings will either break off the end of your shaft due to flexing or grind out your aft transmission bearing due to binding. Couplings need to mate together with hand pressure, and be no more than .005 out of parrallel. Here's an example of aligned couplings before the bolts were installed. http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee26 ... 0_0586.jpg
1980 F-36 with 6BTA 250 Cummins enjoying the Sounds and coastal waters of North Carolina
