The Norwegian Trojan.

pk · Post by pk » Tue Apr 27, 2010 4:35 am

captainmaniac: Get rid of "someone"..... Nooo...Just kiddinÂ´. My wife expected a boat we could use this summer. So she is not happy.

But I think it will be ready for the season. At least it will be "usable".

RWS: I will change all electric wiring when the engines are outta the room. Thought about putting in some plastic tubes (2"), and let the wiring go in there. One pipe for each engine, and one for lights and pumps, and at last one for the shore power, heater, and battery charger. Ofcourse I will put in some more lampa, actually six of them. 3 on each side, and maybe one on the bulkhead against saloon.

It is nice to know someone is following this project. And yes! I will be back with pictures, stories and questiones.

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Tue Apr 27, 2010 6:41 am

THER ARE A LOT MORE OF US FOLLOWING, JUST WE DON'T ALWAYS CHIME IN.

gardnersf · Post by **gardnersf** » Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:58 am

You are making good progress. Good tip on the lights, the single bulb up forward doesn't cut it.

My aft bilge pump is under the generator and is a little more accessible, but not much. Are you changing fuel tanks or just cleaning out the exisitng and reusing or diesel?

pk · Post by pk » Tue Apr 27, 2010 1:50 pm

gardnersf I will just clean the tank, and also change the gauge. I presume it can be used for diesel as well as gas? And for the lamp on the bulkhead; yes I will keep it, just make it double. One on the oposite side.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Tue Apr 27, 2010 5:20 pm

PK, we also added an additional layer of SoundDown insulation to the cockpit floor/engine room ceiling while the engines were out.

The result is that the diesels are now quieter than the gas engines were.

NICE...

RWS

pk · Post by pk » Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:44 pm

Oooh.... I have already bought several square meters with sound dampening mats....

Thought I had to refit the whole engineroom. But I am not sure how to fix the mats to the ceiling and roof. Glue? Or....

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 5:54 am

Glue would work if everything was NEW and all surfaces CLEAN.

We used mechanical fasteners. Stainless steel hex head screws with the largest flat fender washers we could find.

It took a box of each.

You will have to do a sorto of through bolt to attach to the outside few inches of deck below the port & starboard gunnels, as that floor is just a thin layer of fiberglassmwith little structure.

Have you decided on engines & transmissions?

Prop size?

Shaft diameter based on loading?

Will you go to 2" raw water intakes?

RWS

pk · Post by pk » Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:52 am

Good ideas with the fasteners! I will figure out something. The new engines is Mercruisers diesels from BMW. They have just a couple of hundred hours on them, and I got them for a nice price. But they are without gears. Maybe I could use my old ones? Velvet 1.81:1. The shafts are the original ones, on 1-1/4". What prop do you think is the best on this setup?

pk · Post by pk » Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:53 am

Oh...Forgot to tell: the engines is 200 Hp each..... Not much, but better than rowing the boat....

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:31 pm

At 200 hp I doubt you will get on plane.

Engine, gear & prop choice are critical.

Better be careful with your choices. A cheap setup may cost you much more in the longrun.

Become a member of Boatdiesel.com and get all the info you need.

RWS

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:19 pm

It may put you on plane but they will have to work real hard , evey thing RWS said is good info ,

pk · Post by pk » Tue May 04, 2010 10:58 am

Some days should I stayed in bed.....the whole day..... I went to the guy whom repairing my window frames. He called me and told me "everything was now in ship-shape. Everything was "straight" and clear to go. He also told me it was a hard job to get the most curved parts right. ????? Most curved parts???? The IDIOT had "straighten" the curved corner frames....

So now I have frames without curved corners.... Is it any hope to find a pair of curved corners out there? Now I will go home, find me a shotgun, load it, and go hunting. Hunting for a "Neandertaler Ape" who used to work in a workshop...... WHY MEEeeee...????

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Tue May 04, 2010 11:58 am

that's bad news.

Those corners are important as they help make and keep the entire frame/glass assembly from flexing.

You will note there are no external braces required with that window assembly.

sorry to hear of the problem.

RWS

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Wed May 05, 2010 10:33 am

Join http://www.BOATDIESEL.com - best $25 you'll ever spend planning on a diesel upgrade. Tony will tell you the truth (sometime you don't want to hear it). They also have a great "Power Requirement Calculator" and "Prop Calculator".

I agree with Paul and RWS - 200HP x 2 is not enough for your boat. You wont be happy. I'd look for some nice Volvos (TAMD 63's! - 370HP each) - don't they make them nearby?

Hers a pair of Volvo TAMD 63s in the Netherlands!
http://www.dieselenginetrader.com/engin ... m?ID=24935

pk · Post by pk » Wed May 05, 2010 7:27 pm

Ross!!!!! Have you been nearer to me, I would have kissed you!! (blaehh...) Thanks anyway. I will have an answer from Netherland tomorrow regarding the two Volvos.

Again: THANKS!!