The Norwegian Trojan.

[RWS]

1 for the raw water washdown/livewell intake: Is this one for the small pump on the aft deck? The one for flushing?

===========================

The raw water washdown inlet thru hull is in the lazarette.

RWS

[pk]

Ooh! Silly me.... Waste tank is the same as a holding tank, as far as I understand... Right? And yeah: all waters from sinks, drains and other things goes direct overboard. My problem is the names of all things. Here in Norway we call them with other names. That´s why I was confused.

By the way: Thanks for the BoatersEd!!

[pk]

The raw water washdown inlet thru hull is in the lazarette.

Here is another word: Lazarette. In Europe the "lazarette" is the same as a hospital, where they treat ill people......

[ready123]

http://www.lexic.us/definition-of/lazarette

Hospital is one example... but also is a small storage area on a boat, generally in the aft.

[pk]

Just a small update: I have got a pair of Mercruisers 220 Hp. But they came without gearboxes. And here I´ve got some problems: My gearboxes from the "True Blues" Crusaders don´t fit in on the new engines. I need a couple of new Flywheel Housings, maybe with starters on. The next problem is both the "new" engines are turning left (seen from flywheel side). The old Blue was one lefthand and one righthand. Any suggestions out there?



Nice...eeh??

[prowlersfish]

You need to get a difrent set of gear boxes , the type that wil take full power in "reverse" postion you use that ro reverse the direction of the prop . your not really running them in reverse your runing int the "B" postion and the other engine will be in the "A "postion .
Your current Velvet drive (I asume that what you have) won't do that ( WILL BURN OUT REVERSE) ZF & hurth are 2 gears that will work

You need to find out what bell housings you can get then find a gear that will fit it as there are difrent housings ( #1 ,2,3,4 etc )

[RWS]

220 horsepower is ABSOLUTELY the WRONG CHOICE for this boat.

END OF STORY.

Your hull design and engineering demands the proper amount of HP/torque.

Otherwise, just get a trawler.

You will never ever get any return on the expense you are putting into this boat.

Instead of enhancing the value and performance of this fine hull design, you amy be ulrimately creating what we call in this country the ultimate WHITE ELEPHANT and destroying the usability of this vessel.

Furthermore you better hope you like this boat, no LOVE THIS BOAT because with the wrong power, you will own her for a long, long time, as there will be absolutely zero resale, ever.

Choosing a replacement engine/transmission/shafts and props should be based on sound engineering and sound math, not just what is available on the local market. I realize your choices are limited, but this is not like buying a pizza.

Don't make this MISTAKE!

RWS

[prowlersfish]

I believe 220 HP will work , problem is you will need to use most of that HP to cruse , that means running near the top , not good if you expect the engine to last ,you may get by with a 220 cummins other lower out put engines (for the displacement) the engines you have are High output not good for run hard over long time periods. now if you just going to put around and done care about speed you will be fine

I recommend you go on Boatdiesel and use there calculator (prop) you can find out what you boat will do at what rpm . you may have to join but it is worth every cent . you can find out the right size gear ratio and prop size etc.

You may be better off finding another set of engines with gears and selling these .

THERE IS A LOT MORE TO CHANGING TO DIESELS THEN JUST CHANGING THE ENGINES
AND YOU NEED TO GET IT RIGHT OR YOU WASTING YOUR TIME AND MONEY

[foofer b]

RWS, at the price of fuel over there he might not want to go fast!!!

[RWS]

RWS, at the price of fuel over there he might not want to go fast!!!

====================================

Agreed, however the 10 Meter is not designed to be a displacement or even a semi displacement vessel.

Imagine engines struggling to get up on plane.

A good example of this is BOSSEA, a 10 meter sedan that came from the factory with 250 horse Detroit 8.2 diesels.

PK is opting for 220 HP engines, for the twins this is a 60 hp reduction from Bossea, or 14% LESS power that Bossea had and as compared to the 350 Cursaders, a whopping 37% difference in total HP.

This is HUGE.

Imagine trying to fly an airplane or run a tractor/trailer with that kind of power reduction.

Even if he does go through with the change out he will be so severely overpropping these engines that they will have a very short life.

I hope PK will reconsider his move.

see the full story on Bossea at

http://www.sbmar.com/Repowers/Bossea.php

Here's a clip below.

RWS
======================

"in actual conditions it was extremely difficult to maintain a steady cruise speed of 16-17 knots, especially with following seas. Going up the back side of a wave would naturally drop the stern, and speed would be reduced to12-13 knots, right at the point where the boat fell off plane. This was with trim tabs all the way down. So the typical experience was that a good deal of time was spent getting onto plane, falling off, then climbing back on again. It seemed obvious that BOSSEA needed a little more get-up-and-go to perform to her potential. Because the boat was in otherwise great condition, repowering seemed to be a reasonable way to solve the problem. The next step was to figure out what to repower with."

[pk]

Hi folks! Thanks for all "inputs" about the repowering of the Norwegian Trojan. Yesterday I´ve started to look around for a couple of Yanmar 315. I guess I will have new (used) engines before next week-end. Today I have tried to straigthen up my windshield (remember the one snow destroyed??). Lucky me; everything seems to be in straight order after three hours work, no abnormal bends or anything else. Exept for the left corner frame... It´s destroyed. Next thing now is to make patterns from cardboard, and tomorrow I will deliver them to the glassman. He suggested to use Lexan or Carbonite Glass. Lighter in weight, and "hammerproof". So if any of you out there have a left corner frame to sell, I would be very happy!!

[pk]

By the way: We´re talking about engines and engines outputs: Have anybody read this article?

http://www.boattest.com/resources/view_ ... ewsID=3361

Here they use two small 4 cylinder Yanmar with "outstanding" result. And those engines are smaller than mine Mercruisers.....??

[RWS]

The Yanmars are higher RPM/liter high performance diesels. They have a high horsepower to weight ratio.

All things considered, REAL WORLD application is critical to performance and longevity.

Especially when you consider the actual weight of a loaded boat, fuel, water, passengers and GEAR.

How "hard" an engine will work will also affect it's life, even when propped correctly.

Published data on our boats by the Factory claims a "dry" weight of 12,000 lbs.

What they don't tell you is that this is for a stripped down boat.

Add the generator, air conditioning, wetbar, microwave, icemaker, referigerator, transom bench seat, microwave, batteries for the inverter, plus your gear, spares and then add in the watter and fuel and what a surprise.

My unofficial travel lift weight WITH THE ALUMINUM YANMAR DIESELS fully loaded was nearly 18,000 lbs!

That was the surprise we got at the end of the repower and found that using the factory weights resulted in our being overpropped.

Take a look at boatdiesel.com and join for $25/year.

Get the opinions of THOSE experts.

That's what I did.

RWS

[RWS]

Take these actual numbers and consider that they are for a 28' boat with far less girth, running water surface, mass and weight than your 33'

http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp ... rms=yanmar

RWS

[prowlersfish]

The 315 yanmar would be a very good choice