Painting

larglo · Post by **larglo** » Tue May 18, 2010 12:26 pm

Hello all,

My F25 has what appears to have spots where it looks like a cover paint is wearing away, due to use or weather. it has a really light gray color to it, under the brighter "gelcoat" ?

I'm not sure if it's the gelcoat that's wearing away or the previous owner painted it?

If it were gelcoat, I would think it would be thicker? But I would like to paint over all of the deck in front, down the walking sides, and perhaps the rear deck.

I'm not able to do much labor in the preparation to paint it, but I was hoping some of you would know of a good method of preparation and a good paint that will do the job.

I have read about, 2 part paints and 1 part paints. such as Brightside, and a couple of others.

Also,,,the rear deck which had carpet glued to it, and left black spots of what I believe was the glue when the carpet was removed. I have tried everything from Acetone, to oven cleaner, and wasn't able to make much of a dent in getting it up. The floors has that pitted style, which I figure is a non-slip surface, and the glue is very difficult to get out of the low pitted areas of the floor.

If I could get all the old glue up, I would leave it as is. But if I can't I'll have to reinstall carpet over it again.

Any glues on how to get the glue up, without giving me a heart attack, would be most helpful.

Thanks very much,

Larry

PS,,,will paint really stand up to being walked on and such?

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Tue May 18, 2010 1:29 pm

Larry, sounds like a fun project!!!

Suggest you contact a flooring retailer of local HD or Lowes for suggestions on getting up carpet glue on what is the non-skid surface of your cockpit sole (floor). It may take some time and patience. Usually the glue removers require 30 minutes or more to penetrate into the glue. I doubt this would harm the surface of the nonskid.

Gelcoat is really thin, not thick. It may be that repeated cleanings have worn it down. I would suggest you take a look at one part polyurethane paints sold at a lot of marine supply outlets. The 2 parts take a lot of practice. Best method is a one-part (Brightside is a brand that's a good one) paint that is rolled on in sections and then "tipped" to a smoother surface with a china bristle or badger bristle (aka EXPENSIVE) brush. This roll and tip method is pretty good for making a one-part topside paint come out smooth and shiny. Painting over the original molded-in-place nonskid pattern should be done carefully, as the paint may will in the depressions and eliminate any non-skid properties. I've seen people add non-skid powder to the final coat of paint as a way to ensure a non-skid surface.

I would consult with some of the folks who make boat paints. Many of them have websites and 800 numbers, as well as publish a lot of good how-to information.

Hope that helps

turtlem1969 · Post by **turtlem1969** » Tue May 18, 2010 8:28 pm

I agree with randy.
There are a ton of how to videos on youtube as far as the method that randy had stated, best done with two people, one rolling the pain and one tipping with a brush. The key is to keep the edges wet, hard to do with just one person, although it can be done, just a whole lot quicker with two. Best of luck to ya.

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Tue May 18, 2010 9:17 pm

Larry, I have used the roll and tip method several times with great succes.

Always used one part polyurathane Interlux Brightside. I have always done it alone without problems. Here are some important suggestions; 1, use acetone to remove ALL traces of wax BEFORE sanding. Otherwise you will sand the wax into the gelcoat and get "fish eyes" in your paint finish. 2. Fill any holes, crackes, etc with epoxy. 3. sand throughly and wipe with proper solvent.4. Use the primer for the application and sand. (second coat optional) 5. Roll on paint with foam roller and tip with 3" foam brush. small area's I find 2' x 4' is max. Always tip INTO the wet edge. TIP ONCE TO FLATTEN THE SMALL BUBBLES ONLY. Avoid the temptation to go over it a second time. apply thin coats. do not try to lay on too much paint. you will get runs

for sure. Good luck.jimbo36

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue May 18, 2010 9:29 pm

Interlux has some good info also some videos

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/default.asp

LandVF36 · Post by **LandVF36** » Wed May 19, 2010 12:10 am

I too am a Brightside fan! Our last boat was a Chris Craft that I painted 6 seasons ago. I saw it last summer, still looked like the day I finished it.
I have been re-painting the Trojan with Brightside over the past two years. I finished the project this spring.
Both times, I used the "roll and tip" method. It turns out pretty good if you use a litte of the 333 thinner. While its not as good as a spray on finish from a professional shop, the price is better. I got a quote for $18,000 to paint everything from the rub-rail up. I split the project over two years and spent about $500.

k9th · Post by **k9th** » Wed May 19, 2010 3:28 am

Sounds like a neat project and I am considering doing some painting myself. Keep us up to date with photos - I would like to learn from your experiences since I have never painted using this method before.

Good luck!

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Wed May 19, 2010 4:57 am

Landvf36 please say you took some before and after shots. We'd like to see them.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Wed May 19, 2010 7:34 am

You all know my feelings on paint.

90% of the paint job is preparation - sanding, filling,sanding and priming.

After doing that much work, 2-part is the only way to go - it will last twice as long, and holds up better to abuse.

Single part is fine (I do use it on my Trojan uppers, since I didn't take the time to do it "right" this spring) - but won't last as long.

I did my 26 "right" - but it took 9 months ... removed deck from hull (it also got all new screws, bolts, wire, engine,etc.), block sanded, filled, block sanded, etc. then sprayed 2 coats of primer and 4 coats of white Awlgrip. Still looks like new after 5 years - but it was a LOT of work.

larglo · Post by **larglo** » Thu May 20, 2010 9:25 am

I thank you all for your suggestions. But it looks like, it might be a job to much for me to handle? Not the painting, but the preparation.

The passed few days I have been working on all the outside teak wood. I am using Cetol Marine Wood Finish, light, (3 coats) and going to start applying the clear today. So far, it's really looking great! Will do inside later, but want to get some cruise time in, this weekend.

Larry

rooferdave · Post by **rooferdave** » Thu May 20, 2010 8:08 pm

applying clear? We have been finishing all the teak on our trojan 36 foot for the last 5 weeks, stripper, oxalic acid, neutralizer and then cetol...did I miss the clear step? Is this something I should do?

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Thu May 20, 2010 10:04 pm

Don't know if by 'clear' Larry means Cetol Gloss - it is like a varathane that you apply over top of regular Cetol products (original, or light). Gives a more shiny surface, but can be slippery when wet (which you don't want for decks, swim platform, or critical hand holds). I posted some examples of wood finishes here http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... highlight= - the pulpit was 3-4 coats of Cetol Gloss over 4 coats of Cetol (original).

larglo · Post by **larglo** » Fri May 21, 2010 9:58 am

Capt is correct, It is, Cetol Gloss.

Larry

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Fri May 21, 2010 11:08 am

Larry,

If you've got some shade, you can do it. It doesn't have to be perfect (my Trojan paint certainly isn't). But you should scrape/ship off all loose paint, fill any voids with a fiberglass body filler, sand (to your satisfaction - this is where the work can come in), clean with acetone and paint - probably just 1 coat with a single part.