OIL CHANGE VIA DIP STICK
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OIL CHANGE VIA DIP STICK
Hi all,
Following my question about reading the dip stick, brings me to another subject,,,,changing the oil.
I was planning on getting an oil changer that goes down the dip stick tube,,,,,but if the engine is slanted downward, how can I be sure I get all the old oil out of the pan?
How do some of you change your oil. I can't see any way to get under the engine to get to the oil plug.
Do anyone of you use the oil dip stick tube to remove the oil? And what are your results. What brand of extractor is best?
Thanks for any info.
Larry
Following my question about reading the dip stick, brings me to another subject,,,,changing the oil.
I was planning on getting an oil changer that goes down the dip stick tube,,,,,but if the engine is slanted downward, how can I be sure I get all the old oil out of the pan?
How do some of you change your oil. I can't see any way to get under the engine to get to the oil plug.
Do anyone of you use the oil dip stick tube to remove the oil? And what are your results. What brand of extractor is best?
Thanks for any info.
Larry
- captainmaniac
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I have tried drill mounted extraction pumps and small hand pumps, and found them to be a royal pain in the butt..
I use the Pela extractor (see the PL-650 here http://www.pelaproducts.com/description.htm). I get 4-5 litres (quarts) with the extractor, plus what I get with the filter. That means there is about 1 (or less) that I don't get, but when I add new oil the one, the old (bad) stuff is less than <20% of the total volume, so not that big a deal. Get engine hot, poke the extractor tube down the dipstick tube, give the cylinder 20-30 pumps. Then just wait for it. I actually have the extractor tube marked at the right depth (I use the dipstick to gauge where to mark it so it's about 1" below the surface of the oil) to start extraction, then when it starts sucking air I push it in a bit more, and repeat the process until it stops sucking. If you push too much down right off the bat, because of the curve the hose will take on when you coil it between uses, you run the risk for the hose to go into the oil and back out.
The only better alternative I have seen is a bolt on kit (not sure who makes it), where you pull your oil plug and replace it with a fitting. The fitting then has a tube that runs from it, out to the edge of the engine, and up to some bulkhead. In other words, it's like a dipstick tube but starts right at the drain plug. Then you can hook up any extraction / suction system you want and know you are sucking oil from the lowest point in the pan.
I use the Pela extractor (see the PL-650 here http://www.pelaproducts.com/description.htm). I get 4-5 litres (quarts) with the extractor, plus what I get with the filter. That means there is about 1 (or less) that I don't get, but when I add new oil the one, the old (bad) stuff is less than <20% of the total volume, so not that big a deal. Get engine hot, poke the extractor tube down the dipstick tube, give the cylinder 20-30 pumps. Then just wait for it. I actually have the extractor tube marked at the right depth (I use the dipstick to gauge where to mark it so it's about 1" below the surface of the oil) to start extraction, then when it starts sucking air I push it in a bit more, and repeat the process until it stops sucking. If you push too much down right off the bat, because of the curve the hose will take on when you coil it between uses, you run the risk for the hose to go into the oil and back out.
The only better alternative I have seen is a bolt on kit (not sure who makes it), where you pull your oil plug and replace it with a fitting. The fitting then has a tube that runs from it, out to the edge of the engine, and up to some bulkhead. In other words, it's like a dipstick tube but starts right at the drain plug. Then you can hook up any extraction / suction system you want and know you are sucking oil from the lowest point in the pan.
Larry,
A) I use a oil extraction system on my F32's diesels.
B) On my 26 (trailer queen), I use a hose that replaces the drain plug. Its about 2' long, and I snake it out the 1" bilge drain plug and pull its brass cap off to drain into a jug. This is very easy.
You can do as in "A" above, or add the hose in "B", and simply hook an extraction system to it (to avoid having to use the fill tube which doesn't get all of the oil out).
A) I use a oil extraction system on my F32's diesels.
B) On my 26 (trailer queen), I use a hose that replaces the drain plug. Its about 2' long, and I snake it out the 1" bilge drain plug and pull its brass cap off to drain into a jug. This is very easy.
You can do as in "A" above, or add the hose in "B", and simply hook an extraction system to it (to avoid having to use the fill tube which doesn't get all of the oil out).
Captain Ross, 2009 Trojan Boater of the Year
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17

"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17

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These guys market a reasonably priced system for oil extraction, through the drain plug.
http://www.danamarineproducts.com/OilRemoval.htm
http://www.danamarineproducts.com/OilRemoval.htm
Trojan 1994 370 Express, 502 Bluewaters
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My Cummins have the hose to the drain plug with hand pumps mounted on the side of the engine. This is an accessory option from Cummins.
On my 440's I used a brass hand oil pump but I would remove the dipstick tube so I could use one size larger suction tube, and so I could turn the tube to the deepest part of the pan and get the most oil out. Works best while oil is warm...can't hold onto pump if oil is at full operating temp.
On my 440's I used a brass hand oil pump but I would remove the dipstick tube so I could use one size larger suction tube, and so I could turn the tube to the deepest part of the pan and get the most oil out. Works best while oil is warm...can't hold onto pump if oil is at full operating temp.
1980 F-36 with 6BTA 250 Cummins enjoying the Sounds and coastal waters of North Carolina
I'm with you wowzer. I have never found a brand of hand pump/vacuum style extractor that can compare to the 12 volt pump mounted on top of a pail. They work so much faster. Change out the pail for a 20 litre (5 gallon) one, and I can do my two big blocks and the trannys litterally in a matter of minutes. More expensive way to go but time is money and play time is precious.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
I use a vacuum pump type extractor from west marine.....slow but works fine......Some oil remains but that will be the case with any dip stick type extractor............John
1972 Trojan Sea Raider F30 - FI 350's "Time Warp"
1998 Kawasaki ZXi 1100
1972 Chevy Fleetside Shortbed hotrod.......450hp
10.5 Newport Inflatable w/15hp Rude
1998 Kawasaki ZXi 1100
1972 Chevy Fleetside Shortbed hotrod.......450hp
10.5 Newport Inflatable w/15hp Rude
- prowlersfish
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Big D wrote:I'm with you wowzer. I have never found a brand of hand pump/vacuum style extractor that can compare to the 12 volt pump mounted on top of a pail. They work so much faster. Change out the pail for a 20 litre (5 gallon) one, and I can do my two big blocks and the trannys litterally in a matter of minutes. More expensive way to go but time is money and play time is precious.
That's what I use (surflo) and have hose on my drain plugs I can get 14 qts of oil out in about 2 mins maybe less , thats warm oil not hot . IMO thats the only way to go .
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
