can u change rubber boards while in the water ?

l7ty15 · Post by **l7ty15** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:58 pm

Just that simple. Can it be done on an f32 ?

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:59 pm

What are rubber boards?

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:00 pm

rubber boards ? I don't think anyone has a clue of what your talking about .

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:07 pm

I got it !! you mean rudder boards Yes you can do it in the water BUT !
you need a way to hold the rudder in place if you drop it you will have a major leak along with a lost rudder .

I would do it on land to be safe

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:44 pm

Tie a large fishing net under the boat. As you are removing the old rudder shaft, before the shaft comes completely out, put a plug in the hole (2 people), the plug will then be driven out by the new shaft sliding into place. Also, tie a tether line to the rudders while working under water.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 11:11 pm

Why would want to take the rudder out ? Your replacing the Board that supports the upper part of the rudder .

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 11:28 pm

By rudder board do you mean the backing plate for the rudder base? If so, this is not a 5 minute job... removing existing rudder bolts, pulling out rudder / rudder post, old board, clearing old adhesive/sealant, making sure new board is drilled with holes in exactly the right places, putting in new sealant (potentially under water), new board, re-bolting and tightening bolts (which needs someone under the boat too...), etc.... Not something I want to be doing while worrying about sinking the boat!

If you insist on doing it while in the water, you better be ready to work REALLY FAST! Under 'normal' pressure, you are going to take on 40-60 gallons per minute if your rudder shaft is 1"-1.25"... (even if you don't pull the rudder, you will get 15 gpm through each open bolt hole!). If your bung for the rudder post hole is the wrong size, you are screwed (and your flybridge cushions are going to get really wet, let alone anything lower than them on the boat!!). If you do try this while floating, put the bung in from underneath (water pressure will hold it in the hole instead of trying to push it out), but I recommend spending the money to haul and do your repiairs, or hold off until next winter.

Where are you boating out of? I see you are from Burlington, but don't know which Burlington...

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 11:30 pm

browser f'd up... duplicate post deleted...

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 11:53 pm

I think he means the boards at the top of the rudder just below the steering mechanism.

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 12:02 am

ready123 wrote:I think he means the boards at the top of the rudder just below the steering mechanism.

That's what I assumed.... if so, steering needs to be disconnected, rudders dropped (or propped up 'cause once bolts are removed there's nothing to hold them there...), bolts removed, boards scraped out or otherwise removed, etc..... And steering / rudders reconnected with right toe-in angles or someone's gonna have some interesting steering issues later on... before he has a watertight hull again... If he is one of us oh-so-fortunate Canadian boaters (who have the delightful privilige of 7 months out of the water to get silly jobs done), this is a job for next winter... Or if critical to do now, pull it out first.

l7ty15 · Post by **l7ty15** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:14 am

They are the two pieces of white oak that support each rudder top mount...I think I can put a couple of hose clamps on the rudder shafts to hold them up....I dont know how much persuasion it will take to get the steering linkage away from the rudder shafts....That may mean dry dock work...