Guys,
I'm getting ready to paint the top side of my F26 money pit.... I mean boat. I'm familiar with Poly-urethane, acrylic enamel and most other automotive paints but not marine urethane. None of the local marina's or paint stores have any experience with it either. Have you guys used it? Is there an advantage of poly urethane over urethane? The urethane is 1/2 the cost.
I hope you guys who have rebuilt your boats or spent time maintaining them had a good of time as me and my family has redoing ours. It has been a great family value project. Wish I had done this years ago. We are making plans already for our next big project when this is finished...
Boat Paint
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JuiceClark
- Moderate User
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 10:20 am
- Location: Fort Myers, FL
Finishmasters
I bought all my Imron at FinishMasters. They were helpful and gave me the right mix to roll it topside. See if there's one near you:
http://www.finishmaster.com/locations.cfm?state=NJ
http://www.finishmaster.com/locations.cfm?state=NJ
Agitator-
marine paint is similar to automotive except that many marine paints employ reducers that allow roll and tip application as opposed to spraying. As far as paint types go, a true 2 part polyurethane like Awlgrip, Imron, Sterling or Perfection is quite a step up in toughness over just about any 1 part (uncatalyzed) paint. They will hold up much better over time and are much more chemical, weather and wear resistant. There are some things you should be aware of though, and for me these things put 2 part paints out of contention for my project (in the thread titled "finally painted the boat" in this forum).
2 part paints and their primers are substantially more expensive than 1 part paints. On the surface, this is easy to swallow since you will get substantially longer life out of the job. But, during the paint job, any mistakes in prep or during a particular coat that requires a recoat, the materials cost can start to add up quickly. Once you mix the paints/primers, you have to use it- it can't go back in the can so waste is higher with 2 parts systems. It takes a little more planning when working with 2 part products due to imixing, induction time, getting quantities just right without be wasteful, and planning the work around weather/temperature windows etc. 2 part paints aren't as forgiving as 1 part paints so while prep is always key- it is REALLY key here. Most 2 part systems are only compaitble with fully cured gelcoat or other 2 part paints. Using a 2 part product over old 1 part (or unknown) paints can cause some problems with lifting, softening, crazing, bubbling etc and the worst part is that this can show up immediatly or weeks after your shiney paint job is done. As with some automitve finishes, the catalist for most 2 part products contains some very toxic ingredients and the precautions for using those shouldn't be understated. I don't know of any manufaturer that publishes anything less than a supplied air system in the immediate vacinity of open and uncured ingredients. Some say roll and tip isn't a problem but I've never found anything in print to substantiate that. Lastly, some 2 part paint systems (like Awlgrip) cannot be spot repaired without leaving a halo around the effected area.
There's a lot to think about and I don't mean to discourage you from using a 2 part product, they are absolutely superior in every way. You just need to be aware that doing a 2 part paint job properly and safely extends beyond paying twice as much for the ingtredients.
marine paint is similar to automotive except that many marine paints employ reducers that allow roll and tip application as opposed to spraying. As far as paint types go, a true 2 part polyurethane like Awlgrip, Imron, Sterling or Perfection is quite a step up in toughness over just about any 1 part (uncatalyzed) paint. They will hold up much better over time and are much more chemical, weather and wear resistant. There are some things you should be aware of though, and for me these things put 2 part paints out of contention for my project (in the thread titled "finally painted the boat" in this forum).
2 part paints and their primers are substantially more expensive than 1 part paints. On the surface, this is easy to swallow since you will get substantially longer life out of the job. But, during the paint job, any mistakes in prep or during a particular coat that requires a recoat, the materials cost can start to add up quickly. Once you mix the paints/primers, you have to use it- it can't go back in the can so waste is higher with 2 parts systems. It takes a little more planning when working with 2 part products due to imixing, induction time, getting quantities just right without be wasteful, and planning the work around weather/temperature windows etc. 2 part paints aren't as forgiving as 1 part paints so while prep is always key- it is REALLY key here. Most 2 part systems are only compaitble with fully cured gelcoat or other 2 part paints. Using a 2 part product over old 1 part (or unknown) paints can cause some problems with lifting, softening, crazing, bubbling etc and the worst part is that this can show up immediatly or weeks after your shiney paint job is done. As with some automitve finishes, the catalist for most 2 part products contains some very toxic ingredients and the precautions for using those shouldn't be understated. I don't know of any manufaturer that publishes anything less than a supplied air system in the immediate vacinity of open and uncured ingredients. Some say roll and tip isn't a problem but I've never found anything in print to substantiate that. Lastly, some 2 part paint systems (like Awlgrip) cannot be spot repaired without leaving a halo around the effected area.
There's a lot to think about and I don't mean to discourage you from using a 2 part product, they are absolutely superior in every way. You just need to be aware that doing a 2 part paint job properly and safely extends beyond paying twice as much for the ingtredients.
Last edited by jav on Wed Oct 17, 2007 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks Jav...
Great information. Imron and other brand poly-urethanes including hardners are going to cost a touch over $100/gallon. I can get a "marine urethane" for $45. If I need one gallon, cost might not be a factor but when you look at 4-5..well it adds up. Plus I like the idea of not having to mix and/or waste ...because you never know what you are going to get into.
I'm leaning toward a urethane..for cost and ease of use.
Thanks again for your inout.
Great information. Imron and other brand poly-urethanes including hardners are going to cost a touch over $100/gallon. I can get a "marine urethane" for $45. If I need one gallon, cost might not be a factor but when you look at 4-5..well it adds up. Plus I like the idea of not having to mix and/or waste ...because you never know what you are going to get into.
I'm leaning toward a urethane..for cost and ease of use.
Thanks again for your inout.
Agitator-
you need to recheck your numbers... I've not seen any 2 part paint system near 100/gallon in quite some time. It's closer to $175/ mixed gallon and thats at jobber rates.
I used Brightsides and I'm generally happy with the results. I used about 2 gallons on a 32' boat from the boot stripe to the flybridge. I can't see needing 4-5 gallons unless you include primer.
you need to recheck your numbers... I've not seen any 2 part paint system near 100/gallon in quite some time. It's closer to $175/ mixed gallon and thats at jobber rates.
I used Brightsides and I'm generally happy with the results. I used about 2 gallons on a 32' boat from the boot stripe to the flybridge. I can't see needing 4-5 gallons unless you include primer.
Thanks Jav...
I got a price of $430 for 4 gallons of fleet white poly-urethane w hardner.
I'm not sure fleet white is what I want but I'm still several weeks away from needing it anyway.
It took you 2 gallons to paint yours?
I may have over estimated. I figured 2 - 2 1/2 to paint the hull and top side plus 1 to paint the cockpit area. I'll probably spray mine. Did you spray or brush yours?
I got a price of $430 for 4 gallons of fleet white poly-urethane w hardner.
I'm not sure fleet white is what I want but I'm still several weeks away from needing it anyway.
It took you 2 gallons to paint yours?
I may have over estimated. I figured 2 - 2 1/2 to paint the hull and top side plus 1 to paint the cockpit area. I'll probably spray mine. Did you spray or brush yours?
I brushed (roll & tipped). That price you got seems off... you realize they say it's a 2 part paint but there is really 3 parts -the paint, the catalist and the reducer. Some outfit was selling Awgrip 2 gallon kits- any white for around $350 (plus shipping) if memeory serves.
edit: I just checked my quotes on awlgrip- (paint 147/gal) (converter 204/gallon) (reducer 61/gallon) - that makes just over 2 gallons sprayable and is over $400. if that price you got is good- I'd jump on it.
2 gallons should be more than enough even if you make some mistakes. I usedunder 2 gallons and painted the whole 32' hull rub rail to bootstripe, the entire cockpit floor and sides, all gunwals, then entire house including a good portion of the the flybridge sole and the complete forward deck.
Keep in mind that I rolled and tipped. If you spray -you'll need more even if you use HVLP equipment. BTW- if you spray, you may want to look into awlcraft instead of awlgrip. Awlcraft is a catalyzed acyilic poly designed for spraying only.
edit: I just checked my quotes on awlgrip- (paint 147/gal) (converter 204/gallon) (reducer 61/gallon) - that makes just over 2 gallons sprayable and is over $400. if that price you got is good- I'd jump on it.
2 gallons should be more than enough even if you make some mistakes. I usedunder 2 gallons and painted the whole 32' hull rub rail to bootstripe, the entire cockpit floor and sides, all gunwals, then entire house including a good portion of the the flybridge sole and the complete forward deck.
Keep in mind that I rolled and tipped. If you spray -you'll need more even if you use HVLP equipment. BTW- if you spray, you may want to look into awlcraft instead of awlgrip. Awlcraft is a catalyzed acyilic poly designed for spraying only.
AWLGRIP!
AWLGRIP!
Captain Ross, 2009 Trojan Boater of the Year
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17