Spraying Perfection question

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foofer b
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Spraying Perfection question

Post by foofer b »

Harbor freight has heavy duty 32 oz paint sprayers for $14.99, so I have decided ia am gonna spray the dinghy. My question is, what do you thin Interlux Perfection with ( two part epoxy polyurethane) ? The can says to use their product number so and so, but all I have is mineral spirits and acetone. What do I use and how much? I plan on doing two coats or three, and don't particularly want to sand between coats. Is it possible to do a second within a short period, say while the first is still tacky? Any tips or reccomendations would be welcome as I have never sprayed this stuff. I painted my swim platform with it, but that was easy (and none too pretty either). Help!!
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Stripermann2
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Post by Stripermann2 »

I think this process may work for you.


Thoroughly clean boat, drink a beer.

Paint a couple different swatches of paint, with varying degrees of paint thinner onto boat. Drink another beer while test areas of paint dry...

Now that you've decide what method of paint concoction works best, sand and remove test areas and thoroughly clean. Drink another beer..or two, while cleaned area dries.

Paint in small sections first, no sense in rushing this job as you want it perfect.
Once you've completed a section, drink another beer and marvel at how well it looks so far. Drink a couple more beers celebrating your handy work.

Repeat this process for the entire boat and I'm sure it will turn out just the way you want it! :wink:
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LandVF36
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Post by LandVF36 »

Order a quart of Interlux 216, the recommended thinner. Anything else you're asking to make a mess. Perfection is more like an epoxy, not a urethane and if you don't have the right thinner, it won't be able to escape through the paint surface and you'll end up with gooey paint, event months from now. Brightside from Interlux is a urethane and is much more forgiving...
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foofer b
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Post by foofer b »

So I must get interlux 216? How much to use?
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RWS
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Post by RWS »

Stripermann2 wrote:I think this process may work for you.


Thoroughly clean boat, drink a beer.

Paint a couple different swatches of paint, with varying degrees of paint thinner onto boat. Drink another beer while test areas of paint dry...

Now that you've decide what method of paint concoction works best, sand and remove test areas and thoroughly clean. Drink another beer..or two, while cleaned area dries.

Paint in small sections first, no sense in rushing this job as you want it perfect.
Once you've completed a section, drink another beer and marvel at how well it looks so far. Drink a couple more beers celebrating your handy work.

Repeat this process for the entire boat and I'm sure it will turn out just the way you want it! :wink:
=================================

not nearly enough beer for this project !

RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
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Post by Big D »

Foober, go to this link and click on "English" for the data sheet.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/produ ... uctID=3870
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
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Post by alexander38 »

You guys for got the crown backer shots to fix the eye sight faster :wink: :arrow:
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Post by foofer b »

oh man my head hurts, too much thinking. I better have a beer and contemplate this some more!


the data sheet says 2316n thinner for spraying, but how much do I use?????
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Post by rossjo »

Cleaning prior to paint:

Use tack rags to get any dust off.

They also make a cleaner - use it - wipe it down with a tack free cloth and their cleaner.
Captain Ross, 2009 Trojan Boater of the Year
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Post by jav »

As an experienced painter- I'll add my .02c.

First- Harbor Freight has some decent guns and some real junk. If you buy a gun through them- buy one of the knock-off's # 43430 or #66222. Both of these are HVLP and spray pretty well.

Second- Ask yourself what the goal is for the job. Is it just to clean up a dingy that will see some abuse over time or are you doing an all out top knotch restoration? The approach to each will be very different.

Third- Understand what the prodcuts are intended to do. IE -Perfection is a 2 part catalyzed paint. This means the paint is very durable and capable of producing top notch shine and chemical resistance BUT ONLY IF IT"S USED CORRECTLY and if these few posts above seem overwhelming- try the following.

To use these types of products correctly involves much much more than buying the right gun. Preperation is 90% of the job. That means meticulous surface prep, proper sub coats (suitable for a 2 part paint and many are NOT suitable and will fail under the aggresive solvents), and absolute cleanliness and perfection of the substrate. These types of paints are water thin and will NOT fill any imperfection... even tiny ones! The surface must be mirror smooth (360-600 grit) prior to paint and the cured paints thickness will be less than 1 human hair. After all the prep- which will be significant, spraying the paint also needs perfect execution. Proper mixing of catalyst, paint and reducers for the conditions, careful control of temperature and humidy windows (both air and surface), very good gun set-up and control, extreme cleanliness and an unblown spray environment using a supplied air full face respirator is required becuase these paints contain isocyanates which while airborn can be absorbed by mucous membranes, eyes and lungs... organic cartridge respirators do not filter these out! Lastly, even if you do all this, stuff can happen that will ruin the job- like bugs, silicon anywhere close by (fish-eyes), oil or moisture in the air line etc can all ruin your day.

If you manage all that- the results are amazing! Otherwise -I'd roll and tip brightsides.
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Post by jimbo36 »

All I can add is,.. Strippermann, I like the way you think 8) jimbo36
foofer b
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Post by foofer b »

jav wrote:As an experienced painter- I'll add my .02c.

First- Harbor Freight has some decent guns and some real junk. If you buy a gun through them- buy one of the knock-off's # 43430 or #66222. Both of these are HVLP and spray pretty well.

Second- Ask yourself what the goal is for the job. Is it just to clean up a dingy that will see some abuse over time or are you doing an all out top knotch restoration? The approach to each will be very different.

Third- Understand what the prodcuts are intended to do. IE -Perfection is a 2 part catalyzed paint. This means the paint is very durable and capable of producing top notch shine and chemical resistance BUT ONLY IF IT"S USED CORRECTLY and if these few posts above seem overwhelming- try the following.

To use these types of products correctly involves much much more than buying the right gun. Preperation is 90% of the job. That means meticulous surface prep, proper sub coats (suitable for a 2 part paint and many are NOT suitable and will fail under the aggresive solvents), and absolute cleanliness and perfection of the substrate. These types of paints are water thin and will NOT fill any imperfection... even tiny ones! The surface must be mirror smooth (360-600 grit) prior to paint and the cured paints thickness will be less than 1 human hair. After all the prep- which will be significant, spraying the paint also needs perfect execution. Proper mixing of catalyst, paint and reducers for the conditions, careful control of temperature and humidy windows (both air and surface), very good gun set-up and control, extreme cleanliness and an unblown spray environment using a supplied air full face respirator is required becuase these paints contain isocyanates which while airborn can be absorbed by mucous membranes, eyes and lungs... organic cartridge respirators do not filter these out! Lastly, even if you do all this, stuff can happen that will ruin the job- like bugs, silicon anywhere close by (fish-eyes), oil or moisture in the air line etc can all ruin your day.

If you manage all that- the results are amazing! Otherwise -I'd roll and tip brightsides.




Ah crap, now I need another 12 pack!!!
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Big D
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Post by Big D »

Foober, you are better off rolling then tipping off with a brush. Much easier and will also give great results without worrying about thinning, overspray, masks, etc. etc.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
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Post by foofer b »

The sprayer looks like a decent one, not the bottom of the line kind. I got some thinner 2316n ffor the interlux and some Evercoat Formula 27 all purpose filler for the gel coat dings and blemishes. Acetone for cleaning the hull. Sound good???Instaead of a gas mask, I thiought I'd use my pony bottle , ansd old regulator and a mask!!


Oh and Sam Adams to help my painting technique.
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Post by rossjo »

Jav is absolutely right.

If you have EVER had any silicone sealer on the hull (no excuse for using silicone on a boat, unless its to seal a bathroom/shower) you will pay hell getting rid of it. If you spray over it, you will have fish eyes. There are no solvents which will remove silicone, so you need to do it with a hose and wet sanding until you can wet the area and see no balling/rolling up of the water.

good luck!
Captain Ross, 2009 Trojan Boater of the Year
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17
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