5200

fourreins · Post by **fourreins** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 4:32 pm

Probably a dumb question but I want to make sure. I am using 5200 for the first time and have bought a tube for the caulk gun. I notice the tube is metal and it looks like the bottom is attached differently than a normal tube of caulk. This tube doesn't look like the caulking gun will push the bottom up to dispense it. The instructions say to puncture the bottom??? I do that I would think all the 5200 will come out the bottom when I try and use it. Do you open this 5200 differently than other caulks?

rbcool · Post by **rbcool** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 6:02 pm

Think of the bottom like the top of a can of peanuts without the pull tab. Puncture the metal lid with a screwdriver then pry it out. I usualy just jamb needle nose in it then use them to peel it out. Once its out, just like a regular tube of caulk. Advise..... Make sure the tube is plenty warm or its like trying to push concrete out

Ron

rbcool · Post by **rbcool** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 6:04 pm

ps.... you also have to puncture the spout where the attaches

Ron

fourreins · Post by **fourreins** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 6:40 pm

kinda thought that the bottom round metal piece was to come off. It is odd the the instructions just say to puncture it.
*** If I use it above the recommended 40 degrees but below the 70 degree cure will it still work? I am installing some thru bolts on a new swim platform and when I read the instructions for the 5200 I became concerned because I would like to have the boat in the water soon and I am not close to 70 degrees in Pittsburgh!

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:02 pm

When you're finished and have 1/2 a tube left, put it in the fridge (beer fridge in your garage or boat) and it will last forever (put a paper towell around the tip).

I go through a lot of 5200, and keep a tube of white and a tube of black in the fridge open all the time. I don't use the tubes unless I''m planning to use the whole tube - too much trouble

Plus, when you take it out to use it, the warming helps push it out.

rbcool · Post by **rbcool** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:07 pm

I'm not reccomending anything. But I have used it to seal thru hulls on my own boat with a 55-60 degree cure, letting it set for 24 hrs. But thats just me, not reccomending it

Ron

Struts and Rudders · Post by **Struts and Rudders** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:30 pm

You can accelerate the cure process by spraying it with water...strange but true!

If I use it above the recommended 40 degrees but below the 70 degree cure will it still work? I am installing some thru bolts on a new swim platform and when I read the instructions for the 5200 I became concerned because I would like to have the boat in the water soon and I am not close to 70 degrees in Pittsburgh!

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:14 am

Yes - sets up in less than an hour with water (underwater - as in struts) - fully cured in a couple of hours with water.

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 11:12 am

fourreins wrote:kinda thought that the bottom round metal piece was to come off. It is odd the the instructions just say to puncture it.
*** If I use it above the recommended 40 degrees but below the 70 degree cure will it still work? I am installing some thru bolts on a new swim platform and when I read the instructions for the 5200 I became concerned because I would like to have the boat in the water soon and I am not close to 70 degrees in Pittsburgh!

Sorry, but I have to ask....
Why would you use 5200 on through bolts to a swim platform?

fourreins · Post by **fourreins** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 4:15 pm

I am installing a new swim platform and drilling holes in the transom. Bob at Beacon told me to use the 5200 behind the new backing plates as well as in the holes I drill.... Are you going to say 4200???

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 5:23 pm

I'd use 5200 on plate and 4200 for bolts.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:24 pm

I'd 5200 everything - seals for many years ... no problems.

DAVIDLOFLAND · Post by **DAVIDLOFLAND** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:09 am

Iv'e recently learned a lesson about 5200. I've been using it for years on everything, including using it as a caulk. Problem is, it's not UV stable. Where I used it as an exterior caulk, it looks really bad after a failry short period of time, then is very difficult to remove. I caulked my windshields with it and broke two of them trying to remove for painting. My dumb.

For caulk, use a UV stable sealant, not necessarily and adhesive sealant.

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:28 pm

I try not to use 5200 at all, if possible. That's why I won't use it on my struts and use 4200 instead. At some point, I want the strut to break away if it's had that severe an impact. My struts have a metal backing plate attached with 6 bronze carriage bolts.

Slather 5200 on the plate and strut and now you're potentially making that the size of your hole and not just six bolt holes which hopefully sheered or bent to absorb the impact.

At some point, strong is strong enough. There's very little torsional stress on a cutless bearing/strut unless it's grossly out of alignment. I don't believe 5200 "seals" any better than 4200, it's really a matter of strength.

Just my .02

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 5:15 pm

Love 5200 - never had a problem with it (except getting it off the fingers without getting it on everything else when you're using it).

Sits in the sun 365 days/year (12 hours/day in the summer) and still looks good here.

Shear off 6 strut bolts rather than ripping a hole in your hull? Not likely - with or without 5200. I've broken a strut and the hull is fine.

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