Getting ready to fire the boat up today and I've noticed the engine seacocks have a T handle on one side and the lever on the other. What's the correct procedure in opening and closing this style and are these standard?
Thanks,
Brian
Seacocks
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
Yes, they're Groco's. I just replaced mine with a three hole flange version. They don't make a direct replacement for this version anymore.
Loosen the "T" first and then operate the handle like a regular seacock. Tighten the "T" when you get it in the position you want.
There's a rubber plug on the inside and that's what you're compressing when you tighten the T. Don't go too tight, just until it stops dripping.
Bob
Loosen the "T" first and then operate the handle like a regular seacock. Tighten the "T" when you get it in the position you want.
There's a rubber plug on the inside and that's what you're compressing when you tighten the T. Don't go too tight, just until it stops dripping.
Bob
1988 10m mid cabin
What Bob said. If not used regularly, the T handles have a habbit of seizing. Don't force the handle, it will snap. If you run into that, there are 3 screws on the opposite side (I think opposite side), loosen them off just until you can move the valve lever into the position you want, then retighten the screws. This will get you by until you eigther rebuild or replace.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
-
aaronbocknek
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 2080
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:19 am
- Location: baltimore, md (alexandria, va and middle river,md) PARKSIDE MARINA
until you can either service these or replace them with single handle units, try this procedure to ease opening and closing.
first, turn the "T" locking nut so that it pulls away from the inner rubber ball cock. then take a small brass hammer (brass does not spark and you can find them at harbor freight tools) and TAP LIGHTLY on the plug where the tall lever is located. (opening and closing lever) this will jar the rubber ball cock inside just so, and loosen it from sticking.
then, turn the tall opening/closing lever from horizontal to vertical. DO NOT FORCE THIS HANDLE AS IT CAN AND WILL BREAK OFF! once the handle is in the upright position (indicates open), turn the ''T'' locking nut closed until it stops dripping.
you can service these using a grease gun inserted into the drain plug. squeeze some grease using an adapter from the auto parts store, and 'exercise' the unit until it moves freely. i suggest you 'exercise' these old seacocks once a month to keep them moving freely. WARNING--- do not use petrolem based grease as the petro chemicals in the grease will break down the rubber interior ball cock.
hope this helps.
aaron in baltimore
first, turn the "T" locking nut so that it pulls away from the inner rubber ball cock. then take a small brass hammer (brass does not spark and you can find them at harbor freight tools) and TAP LIGHTLY on the plug where the tall lever is located. (opening and closing lever) this will jar the rubber ball cock inside just so, and loosen it from sticking.
then, turn the tall opening/closing lever from horizontal to vertical. DO NOT FORCE THIS HANDLE AS IT CAN AND WILL BREAK OFF! once the handle is in the upright position (indicates open), turn the ''T'' locking nut closed until it stops dripping.
you can service these using a grease gun inserted into the drain plug. squeeze some grease using an adapter from the auto parts store, and 'exercise' the unit until it moves freely. i suggest you 'exercise' these old seacocks once a month to keep them moving freely. WARNING--- do not use petrolem based grease as the petro chemicals in the grease will break down the rubber interior ball cock.
hope this helps.
aaron in baltimore