318 a knockin

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:17 am

Wish I was closer I would take a listen .

Heefus · Post by **Heefus** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:31 pm

prowlersfish wrote:Wish I was closer I would take a listen .

come on up, I'll buy the beer!

I have been given a mandate:

Fix it before Momma in law comes next weekend....or die

She did fine today, ran 1700 rpms both ways. No problems, stuttering, etc. I am going to order a new manifold and gasket. If it fixes the problem, great. if not, then I will tear it back down and have the head checked out. I have a good spare, but I am still looking at the gasket/manifold as the culprit.

Worst case scenario, I have a new manifold on the engine and I replace the head. It could be worse

Heefus · Post by **Heefus** » Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:12 am

Holy PITA Batman!11!!

I am down to the last nut on the manifold. At the front of the engine, she is rusted over, and has gone from a 1/2" down to God knows what. I am soaking it in PB Blaster and looking for an in between socket to pound on there.

Still looks as though it is the exhaust manifold gasket that is the culprit, but I won't know for sure until I get this sum beach off there. I have my spare heads with me just in case.

Wish me luck, it is hot out here!

rbcool · Post by **rbcool** » Wed Jun 08, 2011 12:05 pm

GFL

Ron

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Wed Jun 08, 2011 2:23 pm

You may have to burn the nut off and use a stud extractor to take out the stud assuming it will come out of head.

I would first try and heat the nut with a torch, usually that burns up the rust.

Careful there is gas nearby

Heefus · Post by **Heefus** » Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:55 pm

The nut defeated me

Knocking is still there. I replaced all the plugs, dist cap, and rotor. She runs great, there is just that frigging knock/tap/whatever. I am about a hair's breadth away from calling in a mobile mechanic to fool with it. 9-4pm today, with very little accomplished overall.

I did have the AC running, and a fan in the engine compartment, so I did not roast too bad. The 8 bottles of water helped a bit as well.

I got her all buttoned back up and will be taking her out this weekend to the local watering hole again. I would almost rather the dang thing blow and replace the whole shebang, but that is probably the heat stroke talking

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:45 pm

Heefus, if she blows I got one good right hand rotation engine has about 940 hours, have a running left hand as well but ice cracked block.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:15 pm

Ice? In Texas?

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:51 pm

Yep but that is not where it happened. Cleveland I bought and shipped here. Somewhere on this site is a pic of it with 9 inches of snow on it down here

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:38 am

Exhaust manifold? Cut that nut off and get the manifold loose - the stud will remain and then you can remove the stud and replace the enitr deal (using Assembly lube to prevent this in the future).

You should be able to verify an exhaust manifold leak by running it at 1500 RPM and felling along the edges (right after startup so its not too hot).

Good luck! Busy here ... no boating - even turned down 2 offshore fishing trips. ;-(

Good night - the Queen beckons ....

Heefus · Post by **Heefus** » Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:11 am

rossjo wrote:Exhaust manifold? Cut that nut off and get the manifold loose - the stud will remain and then you can remove the stud and replace the enitr deal (using Assembly lube to prevent this in the future).

You should be able to verify an exhaust manifold leak by running it at 1500 RPM and felling along the edges (right after startup so its not too hot).

Good luck! Busy here ... no boating - even turned down 2 offshore fishing trips. ;-(

Good night - the Queen beckons ....

Didn't have my cutting wheel with me

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:33 am

You may be able to use a nut splitter tool, if it will fit. That way you may be able to still use the stud.

Heefus · Post by **Heefus** » Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:26 am

larryeddington wrote:You may be able to use a nut splitter tool, if it will fit. That way you may be able to still use the stud.

Picked one up this morning. I would prefer to sacrifice a nut over the possibility of shearing a stud off in the block.

Heefus · Post by **Heefus** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:40 pm

It is much quieter now, though that may be due to the fact that the V-drive pinion flange is slightly loose, causing a racket

I attempted to drop the shaft flange, while on the hook, but it did not want to budge, and my BFH was at the marina. I am gonna take care of it next week. Hopefully it just needs to be re-torqued (it is the reman one...go figure) and will be good to go. Otherwise, I will pull the V-drive and inspect the output shaft bearing.

I still like the boat

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:13 am

Just put one vdrive back onto my 318 but out of the boat, that is a heavy sucker,

Heefus, does your f28 have stamped oil pan or the larger cast oil pan? I am advised to use the larger which I am and believe it will clear the stuffing box. Bob at Beacon was surprised mine had the stamped pan on it.

Larry