1974 f32
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
Hi and welcome to the forum,
I bought an F32 a year ago, here is what I would look for.
Electrolysis
fuel tanks
exhaust system from manifolds to transom discharge
head, holding tank and plumbing
leaky or broken windows
rail stanchions - leaks and structural integrity
soft spots on the fore deck and bride deck
just a thought
I bought an F32 a year ago, here is what I would look for.
Electrolysis
fuel tanks
exhaust system from manifolds to transom discharge
head, holding tank and plumbing
leaky or broken windows
rail stanchions - leaks and structural integrity
soft spots on the fore deck and bride deck
just a thought
- TADTOOMUCH
- Moderate User
- Posts: 526
- Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:58 am
- Location: S.W. Michigan
Items to check
These will keep the boat floating
Check all thru-hull fittings for cracks or weakness and hose clamps.
Check all intakes for engine, A/C, or head for good double clamps and clear openings with no leaks
Check rudder and drive shaft packings for proper drip rates. May leak a lot at first but after a couple days in water should drip slowly.
Check for at least two bilge pumps. One forward near v-berth, one aft near transom for proper operation. Make sure auto-on switches work.
These will keep you alive:
CO-sensor- buy one.
Gasoline fume sensor- buy one.
Fuel lines and tank-inspect for leaks or corrosion and look inside fuel level sensor access to see if there is any sludge in tank or corrosion in bottom. Bilge blowers should all work and all the flexible hoses should be free of cracks.
These items will be something to watch for.
All items in above posts.
Check all battery connections to make sure they are tight and corrosion-free.
check all wiring connections to make sure they are tight and corrosion-free.
Make sure all fuses are in place and correct size to protect wire.
Check 120V power cord to make sure it has good connection with ground and check condition of sockets where it plugs in for arc damage.
There may be a backflow preventer inline near top of fuel tank that can get clogged up once in a while that needs to be taken out and cleaned and put back in line.
Replace all fuel filters.
Check all thru-hull fittings for cracks or weakness and hose clamps.
Check all intakes for engine, A/C, or head for good double clamps and clear openings with no leaks
Check rudder and drive shaft packings for proper drip rates. May leak a lot at first but after a couple days in water should drip slowly.
Check for at least two bilge pumps. One forward near v-berth, one aft near transom for proper operation. Make sure auto-on switches work.
These will keep you alive:
CO-sensor- buy one.
Gasoline fume sensor- buy one.
Fuel lines and tank-inspect for leaks or corrosion and look inside fuel level sensor access to see if there is any sludge in tank or corrosion in bottom. Bilge blowers should all work and all the flexible hoses should be free of cracks.
These items will be something to watch for.
All items in above posts.
Check all battery connections to make sure they are tight and corrosion-free.
check all wiring connections to make sure they are tight and corrosion-free.
Make sure all fuses are in place and correct size to protect wire.
Check 120V power cord to make sure it has good connection with ground and check condition of sockets where it plugs in for arc damage.
There may be a backflow preventer inline near top of fuel tank that can get clogged up once in a while that needs to be taken out and cleaned and put back in line.
Replace all fuel filters.
Boat Name: A TAD TOO MUCH
Model: 1978 F-32 Sedan Cruiser
Engines: Twin Chry 360's 666 hrs original engines
2013 Mercury 300 Ocean Runner 9.9hp Merc 4 stroke
Model: 1978 F-32 Sedan Cruiser
Engines: Twin Chry 360's 666 hrs original engines
2013 Mercury 300 Ocean Runner 9.9hp Merc 4 stroke
- prowlersfish
- 2025 Gold Support
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- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 6:56 pm
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thanks for the info prowler if and when I get it I'm going to have it splashed and kept at a friends marina where it is wanted to charge me $1300 to keep it on the hard untill March the boat has come up as a suprise and the finaces are low (it"s a beauty need cosmetic work and if I don't get her now I may never get a chance to get a nice boat like this 1) $1300 all at once is a good bit for just after getting the boat. most of the work is in the cabin and the boat just needs T.L.C. nothing to get in a twist about but I do want a good anti fouling paint. Thanks and keep the tips a comming!!!! I think that this may be a boat that I can give to my Son, Looks that well built
- aaronbocknek
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- aaronbocknek
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- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:19 am
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- ready123
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Spend the money on a good surveyor as the $400 spent will likely save you thousands. F32's can be costly to bring back in $$ and time.drbbqking wrote:takin the wife to look at her tomorrow
I've seen too many people spend $6k for a boat and then be shocked they need to spend another $12K.... happens often.

Michael
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL