How much bottom paint?
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
How much bottom paint?
How much ablative bottom paint would I need for my F30?
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Nice Site
Nice prices, Surely beat WMarine
Any Ideas on the size or thickness of zincs for replacing all on an F32 after Bottom paint.
Was planing to use bottom paint stripper. Any ideas or recommendations?
Any Ideas on the size or thickness of zincs for replacing all on an F32 after Bottom paint.
Was planing to use bottom paint stripper. Any ideas or recommendations?
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- Registered user
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 11:40 pm
Divers Dream
How does this connect everything. I know that sounds numb skulled, but I understand it fits onto the stearn, but do I run wires from the various bits?
Looks like a gallon a coat for me. Why is the paint so pricey?ready123 wrote:http://www.pettitpaint.com/paint_calculator.asp
islander, I am not sure I understand your question? how does what connect everything?
bits?
if referring to the bonding system,
there is a central bonding wire, usually a fairly large gauge bare copper wire that runs the length of one or both stringers. The underwater metal components , such as through hulls , sea cocks, stuffing box, rudders trim tabs, struts etc and engine are connected- sometimes by crimp, sometimes by solder, to the bonding wire. the central bonding wire runs to the transom of the boat and is then connected to one or both zinc mounting bolts.
If you have an F32, your bonding wire should be on the port stringer
bits?
if referring to the bonding system,
there is a central bonding wire, usually a fairly large gauge bare copper wire that runs the length of one or both stringers. The underwater metal components , such as through hulls , sea cocks, stuffing box, rudders trim tabs, struts etc and engine are connected- sometimes by crimp, sometimes by solder, to the bonding wire. the central bonding wire runs to the transom of the boat and is then connected to one or both zinc mounting bolts.
If you have an F32, your bonding wire should be on the port stringer
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Bonding wire.
I did see this when I was grinding down the fiberglass when installing the back wall. I'm sure it will be more apparent when I take the running gear down. I'm sure I'll find it.
Anysuggestion on inspecting and ensuring the trim tabs are operational. I haven't checked them yet, but there is an automatic boat leveler onboard. Not familiar with these or how they work and took it down when doing the back wall and cockpit work. Is there any specific way this should be installed and what I should check for when reinstalling them. Never had a boat with Trim tabs before so no previous experience. Only on an outboard. Guess I have more homework.

Anysuggestion on inspecting and ensuring the trim tabs are operational. I haven't checked them yet, but there is an automatic boat leveler onboard. Not familiar with these or how they work and took it down when doing the back wall and cockpit work. Is there any specific way this should be installed and what I should check for when reinstalling them. Never had a boat with Trim tabs before so no previous experience. Only on an outboard. Guess I have more homework.


- captainmaniac
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Re: Nice Site
I tried using a product called Peel Away on mine a couple of years back. Wrote about it in this old thread http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... =peel+away .Islanddr08 wrote:Nice prices, Surely beat WMarine
Any Ideas on the size or thickness of zincs for replacing all on an F32 after Bottom paint.
Was planing to use bottom paint stripper. Any ideas or recommendations?
I ended up scraping and sanding by hand. Total time invested in the bottom was about 100 hours.
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Bottom Blasting
Looked through that thread and it looks nice. I found a device called a Blast out of a Bucket Abrasive gun http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/5033/ . It may be to small. I'm not sure if it will do the job, but I may try it. Not sure what abrasive to use and will check with the Marina Tommorow to find out if allowed and what they recommend. If anything I will have it to clean other stuff as well.
Thanks for the info Don, it's helping me find ways of improving the job and other info on other areas I need to work. Good motivation, but I guess like all of us if we had endless pockets the work and improvements would be endless. Thx again.
Thanks for the info Don, it's helping me find ways of improving the job and other info on other areas I need to work. Good motivation, but I guess like all of us if we had endless pockets the work and improvements would be endless. Thx again.
tabs
On the trim tabs, just try them up and down and see if they move the full range. Two things to keep in mind....
1) The UP/DOWN is opposite of what the trim tabs does. UP means bow up but the tabs will actually move down.
2) Same with the LEFT and RIGHT switches. That'll move the opposite tab.
I thought mine were all screwed up the first time I tested them.
Bob
1) The UP/DOWN is opposite of what the trim tabs does. UP means bow up but the tabs will actually move down.
2) Same with the LEFT and RIGHT switches. That'll move the opposite tab.
I thought mine were all screwed up the first time I tested them.
Bob
1988 10m mid cabin
Re: tabs
I have them on another boat and understand how they work. A friend just bought a boat and his are FUBAR! Someone thought they knew better and they are all screwed up.BobCT wrote:On the trim tabs, just try them up and down and see if they move the full range. Two things to keep in mind....
1) The UP/DOWN is opposite of what the trim tabs does. UP means bow up but the tabs will actually move down.
2) Same with the LEFT and RIGHT switches. That'll move the opposite tab.
I thought mine were all screwed up the first time I tested them.
Bob