Comodave
Im not sure the year of your boat, maybe I missed it, but mine is a 1977, apparently it was a year they either fired all of the craftsman doing joinery or Trojan was just cheaping out, as there is not a single screw that was plugged.
Coming from a Tiawain trawler myself, with beautiful burhmese teak, I was a little taken back by the cheap wood work on the Trojan when i first looked at her before we bought it. anyways I bought, nuff said.
As far as the bow rail, you'll get an idea of how it is installed on your boat by looking in the upper galley cabinet that is above the stove, if you look up at the deck you'll see one of the stanchion base screw sets, same goes for the chain locker, and a word of advice, wear gloves and long sleeves, it'll save that annoying fiberglass itch later in the day after you have been up in there with your arms hands and tools. especially the chain locker, you have to be a bit of a contortionist there...
In the Forward cabin, port and starboard, you'll need to take the upper panels and the teak shelf mid hull off to access the stanchion bases, mine was easy because no screws were plugged, and as mentioned before, they are brass screws, you'll most likely strip a number of them off, just drill out the head and move on, you can unscew them with the vise grips I mentioned before once the teak trim is fully removed. I replaced all of my hardware with stanless,
when you get the panels off, it is a good time to recover them, I did mine in a light neutral padded vinyl, brightened it up and smelled much better..
anyways when the hull panels are off, you'll easily see the stanchion base screws, if you have help, you'll have the rail loose in 15 to 30 minutes. (vise grips) as a side note, I usually never use vise grips on a bolt or nut, but once you get into this job, you'll see what I mean.
You will now have to remove the teak plywood valance panel above the dinette Starboard, (its the wide board running fore and aft), and the teak 1/4 round that hides the staples on the headliner along the hull, try to remove the staples if you can, an Awl or very small pry worked pretty good, i actually used a razor and straight edge and cut the headliner right along the inside of the staple row, there is plenty of backing to restaple the headliner when you are through, you can feel the backing with your hand, so make sure you dont cut to far inboard.
when you pull the headliner down you'lll see the screws, if I remember correctly they are in close proximity to the aft dinette bulkhead. you can reference the one in the galley cabinet.
on the portside, you'll have to remove the valance panel and hardboard headliner , but only behind the upper hull valance board to access the stancion base in the head, this is actually pretty easy, I think there are only about 6 screws total in this area, the other base you can access in the gally cabinet as mentioned before.
the bolts that hold the rail where it meets the deck is accessible in the side cabinets, without much effort.
here are a few photos, I thought I had more but this will give you an idea.
I replaced all of the hardware with 316 stainless and added fender washers as backing plates on each screw.
When you reinstall, rebed with your choice of sealant (I'll refain from this topic as we all have our preferred sealant) and you'll be good to go. I did this beacuse of leaks.
I rebedded the pump out deck fitting and secured it with screws nuts and fenderwashers as well
