Am I missing something here?!?! Painting a boat.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 10:25 pm

Enlightening read. Not used to using Brightsides but this is good to know. Got to disagree with what they say about standing water in the bilge. Bet there are tons of boats out there that have water in the bilge all the time. Would be interesting to see if there have been any such problems with Perfection.

1967 seavoyager · Post by **1967 seavoyager** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:18 pm

Big D, Interlux #1 is a good paint for your hull. It holds up good. I use it on mine.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:26 pm

My hull was painted with Imron years ago.

1967 seavoyager · Post by **1967 seavoyager** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:29 pm

Was it sprayed or rolled & tipped?

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:42 pm

Sprayed. It was before I owned it though so that was some time ago. It could deffinately use a re-coat. Maybe some day.

rspecops · Post by **rspecops** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:32 am

I was going to ask about paints but since this thread started guess I will take advantage of it now. Has anyone heard of or tried "super marine paint" (http://www.supermarinepaint.com)? I am starting bottom paint removal now and hopefully will be painting in a few weeks depending on weather. Per their website this stuff sounds like it is pretty good. They claim this paint works great for top side and or bottom, same can of paint. But it is a single part and per their specs seems like the dry time of this paint is fairly long. Not looking for show quality perfection. Boat will be mostly kept on a lift so I did not want to go with a traditional bottom paint. It might sit in the water in the bay a week or two at the most on occasion.

yorklyn · Post by **yorklyn** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:02 am

I was looking at the supermarine paint site yesterday. looks pretty good but would love to hear some first hand info.

TADTOOMUCH · Post by **TADTOOMUCH** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:23 am

My boat was painted top and bottom with Imron. You can only do this if you have the boat inside a paint booth and you have a professional respirator designed for this paint. Otherwise you run the risk of an early death. The paint is that bad for you. It is an awesome paint and does not need wax ever. It just needs to be washed good with soapy water. The bottom was painted with Awlgrip ablative paint. I would recommend that you paint yours with any of the Interlux paints wether it be two part or one part. I have seen many boats in Florida that you could not tell they were rolled and tipped and they have been in the water for 5 to 7 years. Don't get too hung up on the moisture issue. Just be aware of it and avoid the conditions they suggest and you will be fine.

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 10:17 pm

Big D wrote:That's interesting. Seems like the product is somewhat limiting. It's been around for a long time though and I have never heard of such complaints due to blistering because of moisture trapped by shrink wrap and cushions. I just read everything I have on Perfection and no such warnings are mentioned.

I don't think it's really that much of a big deal. I mean - awlgrip is an awesome paint. It lasts forever, retains gloss really well, etc... but it is a paint. So it only makes sense that abrasives aren't good. Also re the breathing - you know with your boat that it has to breathe or you are going to have rot issues pretty quick. I don't think awlgrip's need to breathe is any more dire than on a wood boat... or any other glass oat you don't want any mold or mildew in. The need for ventilation and breathing is just common sense.

Where the difference comes in with awlgrip - it is an expensive process, and required meticulous preparation. If a job gets buggered up due to abrasion or excessive moisture bubbling the paint, it's a heck of a job to fix it right... so you are better off to avoid the issues.

You can shrink an awlgrip boat, just make sure there is good ventilation and stuff to minimize abrasion (ie stop the cover right below the rub rail, or use swimming noodles as spacers between the cover and the hull to make sure there is no real contact, etc..)

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 10:41 pm

I get it, I think this is just being given too much thought. I for one would never leave cusions out such that they would get soaked for starters, nor would I let them sit around if they were. That's a sure way to wreck the cusions for one; water will get into the foam eventually and ruin them. I just can't get past thinking that this may be poor preperation prior to coating. Guess I would have to see it for myself.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:14 pm

yorklyn wrote:Found this Thread on a interlux paint forum

http://www.yachtpaintforum.com/brightsi ... ic496.html

So brightside paint needs to be recoated every 3 years???

I painted my hull with the stuff 8 years ago from the boot stripe to the rub rail. I wax it every spring and it still looks great.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:25 pm

It will go a lot longer then 3 years for sure

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:34 pm

Yup, still having a hard time with this one. Still think it's an application and care issue.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:40 pm

I think you're right.

yorklyn · Post by **yorklyn** » Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:50 pm

Thanks guys. I always try to do research before making a decission but as im sure everyone knows you get both the good and bad when you google. Glad to hear its holding up well after more than three years.