
Lower Helm wall rott.
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Lower Helm wall rott.
Im assuming its called a helm wall. Any way the stair case entrance is rotted over 2 inches down. replace entire wall or resupport? its a good size job to replace it looks. but the rest of it is strong.


- alexander38
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Hmmmm What would I do, Seen a bulkhead job like that on a Navy M.S.O. we did a replacement. Anyone else.
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- 1995 390 express
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Jeff if it rotted all the way port and starboard, you don't have much choice. If is only in the middle I would put in a new piece in cneter and laminate with another on both sides.
On another issue I see a house type electrical box which by itself may be fine, what kind of wires go in an out of it. If solid you should change and you may have already noticed it, just an observation.
On another issue I see a house type electrical box which by itself may be fine, what kind of wires go in an out of it. If solid you should change and you may have already noticed it, just an observation.

Larry Eddington
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
yea Larry that box makes me laugh, Its just the last of the wiring that hasnt been gutted yet. It wont be going back in trust me. On the wall, I took a penny nail and tapped every 2 inches every where. Its just this area in the middle thats rotted, but i still feel uncomfortable patching it. IMO it needs to be replaced. But in hope of others I was also hoping someone has found a short cut here, but short cuts are dangerous on a boat so i guess I answered my own question 

- prowlersfish
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Jeff, if you're talking about replacing the bulkhead, IMO, cut out the bad section until you are into solid wood. You must check it down low to the hull too. Now do your fiberglassing thing, and here I would use the epoxy. You can sister it/put a backer on the engine compartment side etc, and it will be just as strong, in fact with epoxy, that section will be stronger than new. The best thing to do with plywood is to make rabbit joints using the existing layers of the plywood. If you do an 8:1 taper or rabbit, that sh$t will never come apart.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
A heathly solution like Larry said. I like both Ideas, replacement I just dont see. It only this middle section. I have checked every where!!!Big D wrote:Jeff, if you're talking about replacing the bulkhead, IMO, cut out the bad section until you are into solid wood. You must check it down low to the hull too. Now do your fiberglassing thing, and here I would use the epoxy. You can sister it/put a backer on the engine compartment side etc, and it will be just as strong, in fact with epoxy, that section will be stronger than new. The best thing to do with plywood is to make rabbit joints using the existing layers of the plywood. If you do an 8:1 taper or rabbit, that sh$t will never come apart.

I don't see it as a shortcut. I see it as a practical repair that will be stronger than before, and what's wrong with that? Glass her in, down to the hull if asthetics is a concern, and then paint her grey. She'll look and work like brand new. It's your set of drums though!
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
- prowlersfish
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