Portlight Installation

abkeywest · Post by **abkeywest** » Wed Mar 21, 2012 11:38 am

I had to pull one of my portlights on my 10 meter to repair the glass clamp mechanism. I had it fixed and now need to put it back in. Reading online there are a million products and just as many methods to put the ports back in. Does anybody have a method and preference of material for installation?

Thanks

rbcool · Post by **rbcool** » Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:17 pm

Tony just went through that process

Ron

abkeywest · Post by **abkeywest** » Thu Mar 22, 2012 1:23 pm

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Thu Mar 22, 2012 4:04 pm

I've done 3 or 4 on my boat. The biggest thing I've found is you need to run a bead of clear sealant on the outside between the frame and portlight itself. That wasn't done from the factory and I believe that is a source of water in big waves, in addition to the seal itself.

I assume you just replaced the inner half correct? I also ran a bead around that using the same stuff before reinstall. That part is not as critical though as it never really comes into play if the outside bead is there.

Sure, you could use 4000 to do the same thing. You don't need 4200 or higher because the screws around the frame are the fastening part.

Bob

abkeywest · Post by **abkeywest** » Thu Mar 22, 2012 4:26 pm

I removed the complete portlight. I had to have one of the window clamps rewelded back on. So I have the portlight in my hand ready to be put back in.

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 4:47 am

BobCT wrote:I've done 3 or 4 on my boat. The biggest thing I've found is you need to run a bead of clear sealant on the outside between the frame and portlight itself. That wasn't done from the factory and I believe that is a source of water in big waves, in addition to the seal itself.

I assume you just replaced the inner half correct? I also ran a bead around that using the same stuff before reinstall. That part is not as critical though as it never really comes into play if the outside bead is there.

Sure, you could use 4000 to do the same thing. You don't need 4200 or higher because the screws around the frame are the fastening part.

Bob

Bob hit it dead on

I'd use a Marine clear silicone RTV (Carver used this so I went back to it) the outer seal and the seal between the parts are the most important and tighten evenly

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:02 am

I recently replaced the round seal on one of mine (head) and have five more to go.

My question is .... how do you get them apart and then out to rebed them?

The fixed one in my closet is (pretty sure) leaking.

RWS

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:57 am

I wouldn't necessarily remove them to re-bed like other fittings on the boat. As long as you've run a bead between the frame and the portlight on the outside you should be set.

If you want to remove the inner half to replace the screen or run a new bead around the inside frame, just remove all the screws inside the boat and it will pull right out. The outer frame is secured with different screws so you can do this with the boat in the water.

I had visions of the whole thing falling into the drink the first time I did this and figured out how it was assembled.

abkeywest · Post by **abkeywest** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:06 am

BobCT - When you say that the inside frame can be removed with out removing the outside frame. Would you know if that is for the 10 meter portlights?

BlueBelle · Post by **BlueBelle** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 5:27 pm

I'm sure the 10M is similar to the 11M. The outside frame does not connect to the inner frame at all. Rather, the outside frame has tabs that screw in to the core between the exterior and interior fiberglass layers. Terrible design. When the frames begin to leak (and they will) the core gets wet.

If I recall correctly, the inner frame screws in to the inner wall of fiberglass. And yes, you can definitely remove the inner frame independently from the outer frame, with no fear that the outer frame will fall into the drink.

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 8:59 am

Bluebelle got it spot on.... the only + on the 10m is no core to worry about but same issues apply.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 6:54 am

are the 10 meter sides cored ?

RWS

JGedridge · Post by **JGedridge** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 7:55 am

I believe they are according to the power boat guide. Be careful!!!

Joe

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 8:16 am

no hull coring on the 10 meters (mid cabin) at least.

Mike Kulp · Post by **Mike Kulp** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 12:04 pm

My mid cabin is just like what they are describing, I resealed all my port holes the factory sealant was old and brittle, I cleaned off all the old sealant used boat life sealant and put a large bead on the outer frame and secured it, wiped everything down then ran a bead between the two halves as i put them together to seal the gap between them that is very critical for a water tight seal. The project really was not that difficult in fact I installed the last port hole while the boat was in the travel lift headed for the water, nothing like waiting to the last minute.