how do you get these props off?

antlr-king · Post by **antlr-king** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 5:56 pm

I took off both bolts. now what? do i need some kind of puller? i didnt want to just beat on them. i need them off to pull the shafts. i noticed today there where 2 bolts broken off in the stuffing box mount. so i cant get that off the shaft untill i can slide it out far enough.

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 6:42 pm

you'll need one these...

http://www.waltergear.com/

but we did have a shall we say a back water poster on here that heated them with a road flare and beat them off with a hammer...

no kidding

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 7:00 pm

I hesitate to say this but if you really can't get your hands on a prop puller, heat the hub then give it a couple of good blows on the hub with a heavy ball peen hammer. Check the other stern tube also. By the looks of that prop, I'd get both tuned. Easier on the drive train components including stern tube, shaft log, bearings, etc, and check your alignment. If you've never had your running gear tuned, now's the time if budget allows.

antlr-king · Post by **antlr-king** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 8:25 pm

i want to have the props done. the cutlass bearings are new. were replaced feb 2011 with very little hours on them . The stern tubes look ok. i need to get them off and cleaned up to be sure though this boat doesnt have shaft logs. the stuffing box hose attaches right onto the stern tube. also i didnt see any bearings in there.? . also how can I tell what pitch these props are? and what pitch should these props be?

is the stern tube bearings and cutlass bearings the same thing?

1995 390 express · Post by **1995 390 express** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:18 pm

antlr- i just pulled mine wiyh a puller that resembled a C clamp- it hooks on the back of the hub and the front of the shaft that u removed the nuts from. after farting around for 2 hours or so and a stiff back i got it on rite.- after thinking it worked like a balancer puller and turning the threaded rods on it as much as possible and getting no where i decided to hit the hub with a small map gas torch. thank god i was behind it because it sounded like a bazooka and shot off the shaft into the rudder with a good force. lol had the other 1 off in 10 minutes. i was told by the prop shop that if they came off like that they were installed correcty - ps he also said to put shaft nut back on loosley so prop doesn t shoot off like mine GOOD LUCK

1995 390 express · Post by **1995 390 express** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:22 pm

i think if you clean the props up a bit the info is engraved on them including year of manufacture.prop shop will know just looking at them.

1995 390 express · Post by **1995 390 express** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:27 pm

just another shocker in case u were not aware. my props are 20x24 and they were both nonrpairable- 1800.00 a piece OUCH so much for down payment on radar system

antlr-king · Post by **antlr-king** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:39 pm

OUCH IS RIGHT!!!!!!

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:48 pm

antir king, no, the cutless bearings are inside your strut where the shaft passes through. the pitch should be stamped on the hub. 20x24 means the diameter of the prop is 20 inches. the 24 is the pitch which is the distance the prop will travel through the water during one revolution. 24"

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:49 pm

1995 390 express wrote:....put shaft nut back on loosley so prop doesn t shoot off ...

A definite must do unless you want to loose a couple of finglers. The prop info should be stamped on the hub.

Once you have the prop puller tightened up good and tight, you hit the end plate of the puller in the center with a good sized hammer/mallet, and the prop should pop right off.

Now comes that all too often misunderstood and asked question; which nut goes back on first, the big one or the small one? Let the debate begin

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:25 am

The small one....goes on 1st....

rbcool · Post by **rbcool** » Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:03 am

Here's what worked on 70% of the props I have pulled...
I had a 1"x16" piece of old brass propshaft and a good sized Maul. A couple good whacks around the base of the prop, rotating each time opposite side, and "POP". Always left the small nut on 2 threads to catch the prop before it fell!

Reinstalling.... I always put Valve Grinding compound on the shaft then stuck the prop back on and turned it back and forth. That makes the mating surfaces Very close to perfect. Then cleaned very well with DE-gummer and rags. Any time that prop had to be removed, even years later, took maybe 2 light whacks. and don't forget NEW cotter pins

Ron

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:58 am

I rented one that looked like this from a local inboard prop shop:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Propeller-Pulle ... ar&vxp=mtr

Left one nut on and put the impact on it, poped right off no trouble.

Oh Yeah it was $15 for weekend.

antlr-king · Post by **antlr-king** » Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:15 am

I think I found one I can borrow. will know tomorrow.