Varnish or Oil

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:45 pm

Fishblues, did you wipe the teak down with acetone before the first coat to get the oil off the surface ? Your not shaking the can are you ? I stir mine real slow. I did found that going back over mine just before a skin flashed over it cut down on brush marks maybe that will wok on your bubble troubles

Nancy · Post by **Nancy** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 8:01 pm

Fishblues, why are you putting on so many coats of gloss? The instructions call for 2-3, and I've always had great results with just two. The instructions call for a bristle brush, but I've had good luck with foam.

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:02 pm

Gloss can also give you problems if you don't give it enough drying time between coats... it gives off some gasses as solvent in it evaporate while it cures. If you put a new coat on too soon, the solvent from the previous coat can't escape and you could get bubbles, or a soft gooey spot that never really hardens right.

And yes -- as Nancy says -- don't go crazy with it. My pulpit got 3 coats of gloss, and didn't need any mtce for about 3 years. Then it was a light to medium sanding and 2 more coats, good for another 3 years.

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:12 pm

Capt. has a great point,it takes forever for the coats to harden I waited a week between coats.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:25 pm

captainmaniac wrote:Gloss can also give you problems if you don't give it enough drying time between coats... it gives off some gasses as solvent in it evaporate....

+1

Nancy · Post by **Nancy** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:37 pm

+10 on the drying time. Cetol is not always easy to work with. I put it on a new dinghy seat some years ago, and I don't know what happened, but it kind of crumpled up. I was *so* ticked! My husband took pity on me and took it to his shop and sanded it all off so I could start over.

I've also sometimes seen a few large (1/4" dia.) bubbles appear weeks or more later. I usually pierce them with a needle to make them lie down and hope for the best.

Fishblues · Post by **Fishblues** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:47 pm

Capt. Thanks, I have not heard that one yet. I'll let it dry a few days. The can says 24hrs but I'll try anything at this point.

The reason for so many coats is I keep getting bubbles, believe me I would have stopped after 3 if it looked good.

Vitaliy · Post by **Vitaliy** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:58 pm

ok sooo.... after reading a coupla things and talking to a few people i decided to go with the varnish on the back deck... yes yes not the best decision i guess however i dont mind the work as i actually in a weird way klinda enjoy it, that and it will match the rest of the varnished parts already lol

here are the pics from the 2 days of progress, i would have made more headway however the weather started turning so i had to wrap it up after covering the wood up

so heres what i did

took all the paneling off, the pics are with some of the panels back on
removed the caulking, and the rubber from between the planks as it looked all jacked up and half of it was missing anyways

washed the decks thoroughly..... and acetone to get any remaining crud off

light sanding to bring out the teak grain a little, then applied the first coat of golden oak varnish, more to come after

here are the pics

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:13 pm

Fishblues wrote:Capt. Thanks, I have not heard that one yet. I'll let it dry a few days. The can says 24hrs but I'll try anything at this point.

The reason for so many coats is I keep getting bubbles, believe me I would have stopped after 3 if it looked good.

The 24 hrs is with something like 70F temperature and 30% relative humidity... more humid or cooler, can take more time.

Fishblues · Post by **Fishblues** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:53 pm

Here are my F32 railings after 3 coats of Cetol marine light and 7 coats of marine gloss. Still have tiny bubbles but I give up, boat needs to go in the water.

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Nancy · Post by **Nancy** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:04 pm

They look fantastic! I suggest that you move on to another project so you can stop fixating on this one.

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:52 pm

Fishblues wrote:Here are my F32 railings after 3 coats of Cetol marine light and 7 coats of marine gloss. Still have tiny bubbles but I give up, boat needs to go in the water.

Looks good to me! And you won't have to touch it for a long time...

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:39 am

they look great , go enjoy...

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 12:30 pm

My lifelong experience with Cetol and Cetol gloss is, strip and sand all teak, wipe with acetone to remove surface oils. (do not re- sand before first coat) Apply 3 coats of Cetol. (never thin out Cetol) I always use foam brushes. Light sand 220 between first and second coat only. For the gloss look, taft rails, etc, apply 2 coats of Cetol gloss over Cetol. Do not use Cetol gloss unless over Cetol base coat.
Now for maintenance, Light sand both coatings every year and apply one fresh coat of Cetol or Cetol Gloss. This way your final coat becomes sacrificial year to year and your teak will look great forever, unless, of course you damage it.

aweimer · Post by **aweimer** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:03 pm

alexander38 wrote:Capt. has a great point,it takes forever for the coats to harden I waited a week between coats.

If your using CETOL it says on the can each coat needs to be done between 24hrs and 7 day of the first coat. meaning in a week you should do all 5 coats if that is what your doing, that way when they cure completely they bond together.

Letting each coat completely cure before the next will make the next coat hard to attach itself without scuffing the surface first.

Disregard if your using something else I guess, just my experience with CETOL.