Moving to Maryland

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:24 pm

Not going to address this to Ready because I don't want it to come off as a shot. I just disagree, that's all.

As a general rule, you wouldn't decide to use the engines as bilge pumps unless your existing pumps can't handle the flow. Yes, install good pumps with good electrical - first and foremost. If the bilge pumps and your electrical system are keeping up, then yes - you beeline for shore, let the engines work on getting you there while the pumps keep you floating.

BUT, if the bilge pumps are overwhelmed and can't keep up, then 'F' it and use the engines too (if you can). You should always have a Plan B.

What would you rather do if your properly sized bilge pumps can't keep up - take a chance on possibly starving an engine or burning out a water pump as Casey talks about, or just sink outright (which also won't be very good for the engines, let alone the whole boat and possibly the lives of everyone aboard)?

Re the main concept in the thread, about hooking up fresh water system to engine flush ... I would only do that if I can GUARANTEE that there is absolutely no possibility of reverse flow. If there is any chance that salt water / engine cooling water / raw water full of little critters, bugs, algae, and other unhealthy organisms might make its way into my fresh water system, then I wouldn't do it.

Health and safety wins out over convenience in my mind.

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:47 pm

captainmaniac wrote:Not going to address this to Ready because I don't want it to come off as a shot. I just disagree, that's all.

As a general rule, you wouldn't decide to use the engines as bilge pumps unless your existing pumps can't handle the flow. Yes, install good pumps with good electrical - first and foremost. If the bilge pumps and your electrical system are keeping up, then yes - you beeline for shore, let the engines work on getting you there while the pumps keep you floating.

BUT, if the bilge pumps are overwhelmed and can't keep up, then 'F' it and use the engines too (if you can). You should always have a Plan B.

What would you rather do if your properly sized bilge pumps can't keep up - take a chance on possibly starving an engine or burning out a water pump as Casey talks about, or just sink outright (which also won't be very good for the engines, let alone the whole boat and possibly the lives of everyone aboard)?

Re the main concept in the thread, about hooking up fresh water system to engine flush ... I would only do that if I can GUARANTEE that there is absolutely no possibility of reverse flow. If there is any chance that salt water / engine cooling water / raw water full of little critters, bugs, algae, and other unhealthy organisms might make its way into my fresh water system, then I wouldn't do it.

Health and safety wins out over convenience in my mind.

and given he was pointing out a 50 hp engine, he's a sailboater...with two raw water pumps down there I'm keepin' it on my wish list, as for critters and such a backflow valve and 2 valves after it that should take care it..

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:40 pm

ready123 wrote:
Big D wrote:Here's some safety food for thought; off that manifold, or any similar setup, run an intake hose into the bilge with a ball valve. If you're out at sea and something really goes wrong where you're taking on a lot of water, your engines can act as the biggest bilge pumps on board while you head home.
Engines biggest bilge pump, really? What size is that impeller? I think we are dealing with another boating myth here.....

Have you or anyone else done this and used it to any effect?

Interesting viewpoint by Don Casey in Feb/March 2012 BoatU.S. magazine on why not to do this... made sense to me that in fact it could make things worse not better and was certainly no comparison to a bilge pump.

http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2012/february/ask.asp
Under emergency pump question.

Don't want to get in a pissing match, but here's my take: I have seen these set ups on quite a few boats, don't know if OEM or not. I do not have this set up on my boat but it is on my "To Do List", fits in with my budget and I hope to God I never have to use it. But if I am ever in that unfortunate circumstance where my existing bilge pumps can't keep up, it's good to know that by Casey's own statement, I'd have an extra 6,000 gallons per hour of pumping capacity to keep me afloat while I head to shore. Let me wiegh this out; two engines, or the boat and my family's safety....let me think about that for a bit

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:31 pm

Seems like a no brainer to me

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:49 pm

hell im putting a large pump out on my lil boat, never thought to ask you guys about it. i was just gonna do it an let you laugh! she (wiffy) even wants one of those pull string inflatable dingys. Now where the Heck am I gonna store that???

JimK · Post by **JimK** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:38 am

One thing Sorensen did not point out is the capacity of the raw water pump. If Don Casey's numbers are valid, they could be helpful in understanding what the capacity would be with two powerful V8 engines. Anyone happen to know if the flow rate specs are available for the engines typically found in Trojan's? Regardless of what they are, after reading the responses on this topic, I am in favor of crash valves as a Plan B. At a minimum, they give you another option and in the direst of circumstances, I'd like to have as many options available as possible. To that end, Prowlerfish mentioned that it is prudent to not only have a way to get the water out of the boat but also a plan to stop a leak. A point well taken. Does anyone have any information to share with the forum on practical plans or methods for stopping a leak?

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:32 am

A good selection of different size corks are always good to have on board. There are also several brands of plumbing mending tape on the market to slow down leaks on ruptured hoses/lines etc. For larger holes in the hull, heck, anything you have lying around that can be pried in place like pillows, cussions, spare life jackets, etc. What ever it takes...your finger

There are also products out there that you put in place on the outside of the hull like a small tarp big enough to cover a hole, and gets held in place by ropes I believe. The water pressure against the hull keeps it in place. All this of course is conditional on the amount of time available to put any of these items in place. If she's going down quick, pray the water is warm, and get out. Shall we discuss the benefits of always having a dinghy with you now?

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 1:48 pm

yes we shall

Wiffey is insisting on the dinghy! even if its just a small instant inflatable. I am gonna buy one of the tarps too. Looks like you can dive over and slap her on the hole and keep moving, Now im running out of room where im going to store all this crap, I have alot f fishing gear

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 1:55 pm

I never leave with out it

http://inflatableboats.com/index.php?ma ... ts_id=1036

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 2:31 pm

thats a really nice one! i was looking at one that was 399$ fit maybe 4, wife n I and my kids easy. friends uhhh well i have life vest LOL 1700$ is alot but I agree! it is a must have and deserves its storage space. I dont take more than 5 people out, but that may change when the trojan is done,,,I am installing a nice little air compressor I had laying around. well use it for floats and cleaning the boat. every little bit helps in any emergency I would think

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 3:48 pm

jefflaw35 wrote:thats a really nice one! i was looking at one that was 399$

link ?

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:06 pm

she was full of sheet. its probly 500$ its used but repacked. not sure I want a canister system. but I could have place for one under the deck with another hatch door. I also have been looking at jacks plastic repair company, they make instant floats. they just are not boat shaped. more like rafts. also escape slides. Im thinking budget and floating since the calls for help will be made before the shoot hits the fan. we already have life suits, w/ beacons for the winter fishing. we will keep scuba tanks onboard in storage so we have an inflate system already but I was looking at this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VIKING-SOLAS-US ... 7c&vxp=mtr

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:18 pm

wow this post got hijacked and crashed into a feild. Im sorry!!! I reaaly like that 3 mil$ house though

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:26 pm

The service thats passed due will cost $ 800.00 or more .( could be a lot more due to its age ) On a older type it could be a yearly service . Mine is due every 3 years ( 2 y/o)

Add the hazardous shipping and the service its not a great deal IMO .

From moving to flushing salt water to crash pumps to sinking to life rafts . Hi-jacked ? no. Side tracked a liltle ? yes .

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:53 pm

lol im glad you guys are around!

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Moving to Maryland

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