rudder removal

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 7:27 am

i need to do mine

but

i am on a lift behind the house

your posts have scared me into delaying this project

RWS

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:42 am

dave that makes me mad! RWS sorry man!!

Mine is still not out. gonna try one more time today before I just cut it off and send it to a machine shop for repair or make a new one. Larry and I came up with a way to press it out. The pin in mine has to be harden steal, its eating drill bits instantly. 1/4 inch in ans still cant punch it out. Dave is correct, somethings not right. Its the worst project Ive delt with so far, something so small giving me so much hell, I dont get it.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:48 am

Jeff, something doesn't seem right to me. It shouldn't be that difficult unless it's badly rusted from using incorrect materials. Shouldn't this be stainless? Have you tried cobalt drill bits? A picture would be nice, we may see something you're overlooking.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:37 am

i agree it should be stainless, but it took 6 cobolt bits to get less then 1/4 inch in. Ill give you guys some time to think and try again this afternoon.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:48 am

Is there one on the other side too? Haven't had to service this on Trojans but any others that I've done are set screws set into a dimple in the shaft. Some have one, others have two. This may not be going through the shaft unless that's the way Trojan did it. I'm assuming then that there is an opening on the opposite side where you are expecting the pin to come out. Check and ensure that it is not threaded, if it is, they are set screws and do not go all the way through the shaft. Let us know.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:53 am

same on both sides. i stuck a long needle all the way through it. its deff a roll pin

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:59 am

I'll have to keep that in mind. I've done quite a few and that set up is a first for me. The only time I've seen them go through the shaft is through a slot cut on the side, not right through the shaft. Good to know.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:05 pm

weather turned here today when i was gringing off the gelcoat around second window, wasnt able to get back out to the rudder project. I was able to quickly sand blast it and clean it all up. its deff a roll pin that goes all the way through the shaft, I knew that with the neddle test. MY ???? is this! How do I have a brass rudder on a steel shaft with a brass collar and a harden steel roll pin though it? any takes on the subject? took a genius to build it, might take one to unbuild it!

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:18 pm

Larry and I talked about cuttin it off as last resort. I want to replace wood plank across the stringers that it rest on. but im also considering just leaving it and refilling stuffing box. Its not like shes going to fall out!!! I would so pissed if it did

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:28 pm

Well you got a point, it aint gonna fall out.

Apparently there are variations as I mentioned earlier my f28 has same collar but square set screws that are safety wired to secure them and the shaft above the tiller bar appears to be brass or bronze as no rust there.

Keep diggin it has to come out, that press adaptation may work.

As I said earlier it looks like your shaft is steel and the roll pin would be the same but very hard and I bet united by rust. Those darned roll pins are hard, probably for a good reason.

I have tried to cut 1/16 ones with a good set of diagonal cutters, no soap, although I have seen the crack as they are so hard.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Fri May 04, 2012 9:26 pm

NOPE! but made you LOOK!!! Im 70% through. Drill doctor, 12 bits (8 have bit and broke) 6 punches all have bent or broke. 3/16 for sure, butchered for sure. I hit it with a punch and it moved 1/4 inch and froze again. This truley is draining, being in the hull and trying to remove this pin. IT IS A ROLL PIN for sure. wont break. I found a few good bits in my buddies 300$ drill bit set that cut well, then I broke one. Im in trouble now LOL almost there tho. Fellas, n Ladies! this is a straight through roll pin setup on a 74 f-25. NO off-set, striaght through the center!

cobolt cuts for 10 seconds. gold bit i found laying around cut 1 inch at slow motion then broke. headed to store tomoroow for the gold bits, cant remeber what they are.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Fri May 04, 2012 9:28 pm

gonna buy a few more punches, I made it move! I want you guys to see its a roll pin, even if its 1/2 inch of one, im trying to save some of it!

Commissionpoint · Post by **Commissionpoint** » Fri May 04, 2012 10:09 pm

jefflaw35 wrote:headed to store tomoroow for the gold bits, cant remeber what they are.

Titanium.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Fri May 04, 2012 10:12 pm

The gold buits are nitride coated. Cobalt are the best. Hard steel is tough.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Fri May 04, 2012 10:20 pm

Mike is right, they are titanium, Larry colbolt cut for 10 seconds. 1/16 of an inch, Titanium cut at slow motion 10 times harder. both dont like to be re-sharpened! I wouldnt lie, colbolt just isnt doing it. This gold bit I found was the butter, just need 2 more! n shes out, they wont resharpen at all, you get a little bit of cutting after sharpening, but not really and its killing me physically LOL