The windlass works one time and not another. Checked power to the unit and through the switch. I think unit is just going....do you think? If I have to replace it can anyone recommend a good replacement for a good price, I what to be able to control from the helm, my current one I release with a clutch and real in with a foot button on the pulpit. I have a 1991 12 meter.
Thanks!
Patrick
Windlass problems...electrical
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As Paul said, more info would help. If the unit comes with a solonoid pack, chances are that may be your problem. Contacts tend to corrode or burn causing intermitent operation. Check for that before spending money on a new system.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
The motor on my "Good" windlass, last boat, went after doing the same things as yours. Was an easy fix and around $200
Ron
Ron

When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat.
Ronald Reagan
1987 F36 Tri-Cabin
Twin 270 Crusaders
"Special K"
Upper Bay, Chesapeake Bay
http://www.photobucket.com/albums/ff424/rbcool/
Ronald Reagan
1987 F36 Tri-Cabin
Twin 270 Crusaders
"Special K"
Upper Bay, Chesapeake Bay
http://www.photobucket.com/albums/ff424/rbcool/
I had to do a lot of testing/rewiring on my windlass a couple of years ago. My powerprobe puts out 12v but didn't provide enough amperage for the windlass. I bought a 12v lawn mower battery at Pep Boys and used it a bunch of times at the windlass and switch.
It's small enough to move around easily.
Bob
It's small enough to move around easily.
Bob
1988 10m mid cabin