Well I started to re assemble my steering and noticed one of my rudders was "floating" where it passes through the hull of my 10 meter. the rudder post bracket has 3 bolts that were stripped and the rudder post had alot of play as the hole in the hull was elongated. I removed the rudder and found the elongated hole and the fiberglass top of the rudderbox was cracked up and thin. Looks like the previous owner may have hit something at one time.
I re-glassed the top of the box with west system epoxy, its now more than 1/4 thick and solid. There is a plastic bushing/bearing that centers the bottom of the rudder shaft in the shaft box. My question is how critical is the location of the top of the shaft? I have to cut a new hole for the shaft to pass through. I'm thinking if I bolt the bearing in then insert the rudder, It should get me fairly close but I will still have some play. We are only talking about 1/4 to 3/8. Is there a good way to align one rudder with the other? I was thinking of putting a small level on the good rudder and use a shim to make it plum, then take the marked shim and level and use it to plumb the rudder and mark and drill the hole? any suggestions???
Thanks
rudder question on 10 meter mid cabin ?
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
rudder question on 10 meter mid cabin ?
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
- RWS
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wish I could help. Mine are a bit sloppy.
I do have some questions......
have the bushings, but am scared to tear into the project, as the boat is on a lift.
Couple of questions for you meter boat veterans:
1. is there a packing to replace?
2. i have received conflicting information regarding the ruddder shaft height and the potential for saltwater leakage into the boat. Can anyone settle this matter?
3. Is there any difference in the rudder setup between the full liner Express Cruiser and the non-liner Mid Cabin?
RWS
I do have some questions......
have the bushings, but am scared to tear into the project, as the boat is on a lift.
Couple of questions for you meter boat veterans:
1. is there a packing to replace?
2. i have received conflicting information regarding the ruddder shaft height and the potential for saltwater leakage into the boat. Can anyone settle this matter?
3. Is there any difference in the rudder setup between the full liner Express Cruiser and the non-liner Mid Cabin?
RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
From the pictures I've seen, the mid cabin and express rudder setup looks the same. There is no packing, just the white bushings are are long shot by now. On the midcabin, the rudder connects into the boat way above the water line so no chance of leakage.
I used TWO bushings, one inside the other after slightly enlarging the hole. One was two loose. The rudders vibrate at speed so this helps reduce that a lot. I mentioned the tie rod/tiller arm connection a few times before, the other source of play.
I used TWO bushings, one inside the other after slightly enlarging the hole. One was two loose. The rudders vibrate at speed so this helps reduce that a lot. I mentioned the tie rod/tiller arm connection a few times before, the other source of play.
1988 10m mid cabin
Here are some pics of my 10 meter mid cabin set up.
Stern view of recessed pocket

From outside looking through rudder hole that is above the water line

Rudder out of boat. the white block is the "bearing".

View from bilge showing top of rudder box after I fixed it

This is the rudder post bracket that centers and holds the top of the rudder shaft.

Stern view of recessed pocket

From outside looking through rudder hole that is above the water line

Rudder out of boat. the white block is the "bearing".

View from bilge showing top of rudder box after I fixed it

This is the rudder post bracket that centers and holds the top of the rudder shaft.

Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
RWS,
No packings on mine. The hole is around 6 inches above the water line and has a fiberglass cover that covers the pocket and prevents water from splashing up through the hole. I don't rember ever seeing a drop of water come through mine.
No packings on mine. The hole is around 6 inches above the water line and has a fiberglass cover that covers the pocket and prevents water from splashing up through the hole. I don't rember ever seeing a drop of water come through mine.
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
That's weird, now I see what you were talking about. I don't have the "rudder post bracket" on mine. And there aren't any of the three holes where I can see your rudder mounts...
I have the white bearing block down lower. Then the rudder post comes through the hole in the pocket and rotates on a really thin plastic "bushing" with a split in the side. It's the the same shape as your post bracket piece and looks like it does the same thing.
What is that part made of, bronze? It must be a different steering feel than mine and not sure why it would be so different one year apart. With my setup. the plastic bushing is definitely a wear item. The tiller arm rotates on top of it (the brim of the "tophat") and wears through the plastic. Your setup looks a lot more durable but maybe the realized the three bolt holes in the pocket was a bad idea?
Bob
I have the white bearing block down lower. Then the rudder post comes through the hole in the pocket and rotates on a really thin plastic "bushing" with a split in the side. It's the the same shape as your post bracket piece and looks like it does the same thing.
What is that part made of, bronze? It must be a different steering feel than mine and not sure why it would be so different one year apart. With my setup. the plastic bushing is definitely a wear item. The tiller arm rotates on top of it (the brim of the "tophat") and wears through the plastic. Your setup looks a lot more durable but maybe the realized the three bolt holes in the pocket was a bad idea?
Bob
1988 10m mid cabin