Onan 6.5KW generator Electronic Ignition conversion

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Wed Jul 30, 2008 3:37 pm

davidsmith wrote:One wire to ground the other to coil?

Yes, Blackwire to ground. Red Wire to 12V+(actually 10.89V) on the coil

davidsmith · Post by **davidsmith** » Wed Jul 30, 2008 3:51 pm

I have one at home I converted and cannot remember where I connected the wires but I believe the red goes to the same wire the points were connected. If the ignition is way out of adjustment (timing) it will not fire. I will look when I get home and confirm.

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Wed Jul 30, 2008 3:59 pm

davidsmith wrote:I have one at home I converted and cannot remember where I connected the wires but I believe the red goes to the same wire the points were connected. If the ignition is way out of adjustment (timing) it will not fire. I will look when I get home and confirm.

Ok, maybe that's it. Maybe it's just WAY out. but it only adjust about MAYBE a 1/2 inch total. About 1/4 inch each way from center.
I'm wondering if the Condensor is supposed to STILL be connected to the positive on the coil?
In this pic on a Pentronix Electronic Conversion for the Onan GMC motor home Generator you can see the Condensor attatched to the positive on the coil.

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:28 am

Here is a pic of the arm behind the Electronic ignition Module

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Fri Aug 01, 2008 1:01 pm

Ok, I just learned/realized that I might have wired the module up incorrectly. Someone on SmokStak forums suggested that the red wire goes to +12v connection on the bottom of the coil and the black wire goes to the -12V wire that used to go to the old points and the module itself is already grounded to the chassis by the mounting plate and bolts.

I currently have it wired with Red wire to +12v and the Black wire grounded to chassis ground.

I'm gonna change this on Sunday morning and see. I feel like an idiot that I didn't think of this but then again I have never converted to Electronic ignition before.
I will update this thread after I go out there on Sunday and troublshoot.
Cross your fingers, I have mine crossed that it will fire right up after this change.

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Sun Aug 03, 2008 12:35 pm

Ok, WoooHoooo! It works, and when I say it works, it works good.
I just went out to the boat and literally it took me 5 minutes to switch the black wire from ground to negative 12V and turn it over and literally, with no choke(cause it's disconnected) it started on the very first turn over. I played with the timing a little bit and advanced it as far as it would go and still run full out but I think i'm gonna back off alittle because although it runs or should I say purrrrrrs, it is a little harder to start with the timing advanced as much as it is. It's probably around 24degree, maybe a couple degree more and it runs SMOOTH! I will prolly back it back down to 21-22 degrees for a quicker start when i flip the switch. BUT man, what a difference. I turned it on and went in the aft cabin and turned the A/C on and it bogged ever so slightly when I first turned it on and then it smoothed out and didn't hesitate after that.

This GenSet has always sputtered and skipped with the points, now it runs excellent except for the oil burning which I don't think I can fix without new rings. But I am SO happy with it.
It was totally worth the $280 to have that thing running like it is now.
Here are a few pictures I took and a video of it starting right up with a flip of the switch.
Pics of the coil

Pics of the EIK, you can barely see it cause it's way down in a hole behind the switch box and this is my cell phone pic

Here is the video of me starting the engine up for the second time. The first time was exactly like this, started right up, no priming it like before. Used to have to turn it over and stop, turn it over and stop, turn it over and then it would start. Now it starts immediately without the choke.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v177/ ... _A0033.flv

Don Lumber · Post by **Don Lumber** » Sun Aug 03, 2008 2:24 pm

Grats!

And thanks for all the documentation as I might consider trying this over the winter when she's on the cradle.

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Wed Aug 06, 2008 1:35 pm

Don Lumber wrote:Grats!

And thanks for all the documentation as I might consider trying this over the winter when she's on the cradle.

If you have ever had to replace those points, I would STRONGLY recommend this upgrade.

There is a guy on our dock that has a older boat and has not put electronic ignition on ANY of the 3 engines onboard but has NEVER had a problem. For him, I say "if it isn't broken, don't fix it" but if there has ever been any issues it's well worth the upgrade. AND it's all original Onan parts, just off a different model.

Furthermore, another reason to do the upgrade is for better econmy and fuel efficiency, not to mention the motor will run as it should.
The original points fired actually at two different timing marks, one was at 21 degrees, the other is more like 23 degrees. Now with the electronic Ignition, they both fire on 21 degrees as they should. If I'm not mistaken the OEM timing is 21 degrees but you can advance it a couple more degrees to run a little better but I think 21 degree is the fuel economy setting.

I'm not as certain on the timing as I need to be. I will look in my manual on saturday to get the correct timing.

My advice to anyone is to do the conversion if you own a ONAN.

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Fri Aug 08, 2008 11:06 am

Ok, here is the more official and more organized write up on this
http://www.trojanownersclub.com/board/v ... highlight=

SteveG · Post by **SteveG** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 1:46 pm

jwrape,
excellent write up. next project in my F32 is to get the Onan running.

Has anyone used the "Point Saver Electronic ignition" as can be found on ebay?? I asked the purveyor of this device if it replaces the points and it does not. He suggests that it stops the back emf from the spark coil from flowing back through the points thereby keeping them clean since there is not arcing when they break. Assume this is a couple of diodes and perhaps some resistance to dissipate the energy. Any one tried this solution, much cheaper..

Thanks
Steve

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 1:14 pm

SteveG wrote:jwrape,
excellent write up. next project in my F32 is to get the Onan running.

Has anyone used the "Point Saver Electronic ignition" as can be found on ebay?? I asked the purveyor of this device if it replaces the points and it does not. He suggests that it stops the back emf from the spark coil from flowing back through the points thereby keeping them clean since there is not arcing when they break. Assume this is a couple of diodes and perhaps some resistance to dissipate the energy. Any one tried this solution, much cheaper..

Thanks
Steve

I tried that points saver first. It didn't work for me. I returned it and they said it was bad. They refunded my money. They are really nice but I just went ahead and changed to electronic ignition to be done with it.

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 11:26 am

where did you get the parts from ?

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 11:34 am

alexander38 wrote:where did you get the parts from ?

All the parts were from the Onan Dealer

gardnersf · Post by **gardnersf** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 11:35 am

Hi, I am performing this maintenance this spring. There is a good description with part numbers on the smokstak forums. I think you can get the parts straight from cummins if you have the numbers.

I ordered them from Jacks small engine repair. I haven't received them yet but the prices were the best. I also ordered new spark plug cables and plugs.

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:11 pm

smokestack lead me back here, and to the old post. Also so found more info at marineengine.com to upgrade the coil and plugs
onan part #'s
plug wire 167-1602
coil 166-0772
spark plug 167-0237
condenser 312-0027

And has any one else did anything to their gen sets to make them run better ?