Removing and re-installing split shaft coupler advise...
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
Removing and re-installing split shaft coupler advise...
I find that I must remove my packing nut to correct a cross thread condition from a previous owner, which will require removing and then re-installing the shaft coupler. I really need to do this without hauling the boat. I have researched how to accomplish this, but would love to hear from someone who has actually done this successfully, without damage. I do have a single split coupler that is not rusted, and about 12" of space between the transmission and the coupler flange when the prop shaft is pushed back. I am blessed with a good amount of working space in the engine room.
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I have repacked shafts in the water on so many boats over the years I have lost count.Vitaliy wrote:haven't changed them out per say but i know for sure that as soon as you remove that packing it will start pushing water like no tomorrow... i would personally go on the safe side and haul the boat before attempting something like this
but thats just my two cents
Yes, you will get some water in the boat but it is not bad at all and very manageable. Just make sure your bilge pumps work and keep a rag handy.
It only leaks a very small amount taking the nut off on set packing. Of course it will leak more when you remove all the old rounds of packing when you repack the shaft.

I've done it but not in the water. The coupler should not be an issue. I used 4 bolts with mutiple washer to "press" it out. A socket between the flange and shaft will do the pressing and then alternately tighten the bolts while varying the washers to keep it moving. It's slow but works w/o doing any damage.
My concern in the water would be being able to hold the weight of the shaft/prop from sliding back w/o a bang. On the midcabin, the rudder will stop it from going all the way but it's a lot of weight and not much to grab onto in the bilge. The cutless bearing friction might keep it in place.
The other thing is you're going to have a lot of water flowing in when you remove the stuffing box hose and/or remove the packing nut assembly from the end of the hose. It'll be much more than just a normal packing change which is no big deal. And, if anything else goes wrong unplanned for, you're going to have to get into the sling on one engine.
Bob
My concern in the water would be being able to hold the weight of the shaft/prop from sliding back w/o a bang. On the midcabin, the rudder will stop it from going all the way but it's a lot of weight and not much to grab onto in the bilge. The cutless bearing friction might keep it in place.
The other thing is you're going to have a lot of water flowing in when you remove the stuffing box hose and/or remove the packing nut assembly from the end of the hose. It'll be much more than just a normal packing change which is no big deal. And, if anything else goes wrong unplanned for, you're going to have to get into the sling on one engine.
Bob
1988 10m mid cabin
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Can't help out with the in the water outta the water debate. I did mine during winter layup.
I also did some research on removing the shaft coupler which was also the split type. I did it just like Bob CT, a photo synopsis can be found on pbase website. Although not difficult, it took a lot of work to put those couplers back on. Serious pounding with a small sledge.
One thing to remember- mark which holes match up with which holes on the trans. If not put back the way it was originally a wobble may occur.
I also did some research on removing the shaft coupler which was also the split type. I did it just like Bob CT, a photo synopsis can be found on pbase website. Although not difficult, it took a lot of work to put those couplers back on. Serious pounding with a small sledge.
One thing to remember- mark which holes match up with which holes on the trans. If not put back the way it was originally a wobble may occur.