F 26 renovations

rspecops · Post by **rspecops** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 7:24 am

Slowly but surely getting her ready for action. Couple pics of before and after on cockpit area.

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The Dog House · Post by **The Dog House** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 1:04 pm

Nice job! Looking forward to seeing more of your work as you progress.

MattSC · Post by **MattSC** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 2:15 pm

Looks great, what did you use to paint the cockpit deck? Look forward to seeing your progress
Matt

rspecops · Post by **rspecops** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 5:21 pm

Much thanks for the kind remarks. This has been a lot of hard, time consuming work. I have used nothing so far but Rustoleum Topside. Finally found a little hardware store that would tint the paint I used on deck to the tan color. I also added hardener that I bought at Tractor Supply. Depending on surface there is 3 to 5 coats over primer. This is going to be a saltwater fishing boat and got a bit of a tight budget. Pettit Vivid over barrier coat will be going on bottom however. Not cutting corners but still trying to save what I can where I can. Electronics package will be Furuno x 2. That's gonna be a smack in the wallet.

MattSC · Post by **MattSC** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 8:33 pm

I never knew rustoleum made marine paint, is it nonskid? I'm thinking of repainting my cockpit deck and was looking at kiwigrip or alexseal. I fish off of mine quite a bit, it's a pretty good platform.

Electronics are a killer for sure. I just bought a raymarine e7D with a digital thru hull transducer earlier this year, it works really well.
Look forward to seeing your progress,
Matt

rspecops · Post by **rspecops** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 1:53 am

Yes Rustoleum puts out a marine topside and bottom pain. I get mine from Lowes in Ft. Walton when I am in Florida. It is a regular stock item there. Again I am not trying to cut corners but save where I can and Rusto Topside is around half price of Interlux Brightsides. It is only sold in quarts though. I bought Interlux Intergrip no skid additive. Then I discovered what is got to be the exact same stuff, non skid additive at Home Depot for much less than what I paid for the Intergrip at West Marine. You don't add much of the non skid to your paint. Taking a break from the renovation this weekend. Going down to Destin to visit my Dad and be heading out to the edge on Sunday. Hurricane should move in some grown grouper.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 11:03 am

Rustoleum marine paint work very well for me on the window and door frames and also a section of water line . But if I was doing the deck I would use brightsides or a 2 part paint. Same goes for the hull

slim554433 · Post by **slim554433** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:08 pm

Came upon this forum after searching for a resource to help with my '76 Tojan Express 25 hardtop cruiser. It has some sort of paint or application on the foredeck and cabin top. I moved the deck mounted anchor to a bow roller, and now want to clean up the area disturbed when the anchor was mounted there on the deck. Does anyone know if it is paint that was used by Trojan there, or something similar that can replicate the finish? It looks like a form of non-skid, but the surface is not at all rough, and even has a semi-gloss to it. Thanks for any insight

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:53 pm

Slim , thats gel-coat( fiberglass) not paint , maybe try componding it.

Welcome to the forum

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:22 pm

believe it or not, if the nonskid is compounded, it comes out really nice and still maintains it's non skid properties. mike and kathy (slip next to me) compounded the non skid this spring on their international.... it looks phenomenal.

slim554433 · Post by **slim554433** » Fri Sep 14, 2012 1:40 pm

Thanks for the replies - i will try the compound route, although i think in the areas most affected and damaged by the anchor mounts on the deck I might have to do something to dress that up. I was hoping to avoid redoing the entire foredeck, just because I know it won't come out as well as the factory finish. But we'll see.
Great forum btw, glad to be able to drop in now and then!

carlywolf · Post by **carlywolf** » Fri Sep 14, 2012 2:03 pm

Great job on the remodel, as a fellow F26 owner, i can see that your hard work is going to pay off for you, the floor looks great.......

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Fri Sep 14, 2012 6:21 pm

slim554433 wrote:Thanks for the replies - i will try the compound route, although i think in the areas most affected and damaged by the anchor mounts on the deck I might have to do something to dress that up. I was hoping to avoid redoing the entire foredeck, just because I know it won't come out as well as the factory finish. But we'll see.
Great forum btw, glad to be able to drop in now and then!

is this your first experience with a trojan? just an fyi. trojan used an incredible amount of zinc in it's gelcoat. because of this, trojans buff and shine up with proper compounding and polishing easier than most brands. and, they hold their shine much much longer. dad had a 1972 tri cabin delivered from the factory and remained in the family until 2008. she was compounded and waxed every other year and as of 2008, she shone like she arrived from canada. just make sure you have a good quality variable speed buffer/polisher and plenty of clean pads. best do the compounding on a cool, over cast day. give her some time and some TLC, and she will surprise you.
aaron in baltimore

k9th · Post by **k9th** » Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:12 am

Nice looking work.

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