Oil????

jddens · Post by **jddens** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 6:58 pm

Sorry to bring this up again but I'm getting ready to change the oil on my TBI Vortec 350's and am looking for opinions on oil. I go out about 1-3 times a month, less in winter. I alternate cruise at 3200rpm and 1400 RPM. Usually don't put more than an hour or two each trip.......start and warm motors at least every 2 weeks. I have been using Napa dino 10-40........so....

What brand?
What weight?
Reg or Synthetic? Blend?
What about additives?

Thanks!...........John

The Dog House · Post by **The Dog House** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:13 pm

My previous boat had a Volvo Penta GSi 5.7L (MPI 350). I used Pennzoil HD30 oil for 14 years, and the boat ran great the whole time. The straight 30W did result in the oil pressure being at the top of the range until it warmed up to temperature, but it never went above the "normal" range. Straight 30W was what the manual recommended.

Lawman · Post by **Lawman** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:30 pm

John, I use Valvoline 20-50 VR-1 Racing oil because of the zinc constant, but mine are older motors (1989). Good luck, this discussion could go on forever!

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:20 pm

Many engine marine engine companys recc 15w40 like cursader and marine power . I have used it for years in my last 4 or boats and the one I have now . have used penzoil , now using rotela . but any name brand would be ok . my second choice would be 30W .

Stripermann2 · Post by **Stripermann2** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:09 pm

15-40 is what I have been using for years. Shell Rotella mostly.

P-Dogg · Post by **P-Dogg** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:25 pm

For engines not run weekly, I recommend that you use a name-brand non-synthetic oil, and Cam Guard. Compared to dino oil, synthetics tend to drain more readily from the surfaces that they cling to, leaving you less protected from corrosion. Google "synthetic vs. non-synthetic oil" and you can read the rest of the night. Camguard helps protect against corrosion between uses. I use it in my boats three engines, but not in my car because I drive it every couple of days.

Here is the camguard website:

http://aslcamguard.com/

Engines that are not run too often (for example, as on your average boat) benefit more from it than one used more frequently. I come from an aviation background (two years in aviation mechanic school, and I am a pilot, plus I'm a mechanical engineer). I can tell you that more airplane engines dissolve than wear out. A big culprit is the rust that develops on lifters between flights. Once that happens, the lifters grind the cam with the pits created by the dissolved metal and your engine really begins making metal.

Some articles on oil:

http://www.avweb.com/news/savvyaviator/ ... 730-1.html

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/answers ... 194-1.html

You should do an oil analysis with every oil change, including cutting the oil filter open and inspecting the contents with a magnet and magnifying glass. There are also services that will inspect your oil filter with a scanning electron microscope and tell you what metals are present. You need to be sure to keep track of the hours and time between oil changes to get the most good from these services.

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 3:49 am

rotella 30 weight in the engines and genset. have used this product since i owned my f-32 in 2008 and never had a problem. of course, this is what my mechanic john uses and suggested. it's been a good product all around.
aaron

Stripermann2 · Post by **Stripermann2** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:24 am

Ok, I'll throw some more reading about oils and lubricants in as well...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Tri-Guy · Post by **Tri-Guy** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:04 am

Shell Rotella was the oil to use, it was one of the last oils to contain ZDDP or Zinc. The EPA mandated no more Zinc in oil even for Diesels, most of our older boat engines need Zinc for the cam. The least expensive way to get zinc in your oil is an addative, the other more expensive way is off road oil (very expensive).

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:33 am

Lucas makes a zinc or ZDD additive that should help with they no zinc causing wear problems.

jddens · Post by **jddens** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 4:28 pm

Hi All, Thanks for the input. Based on these responses I'll use either 15-40 or 30wt, with or without an additive....

Seriously, thanks. Think I'll go with the 15-40 weight. Each engine takes almost 8 qts with the double oil filter setup so the investment is significant in both oil and filters.........I use synthetic in my F250 but will stick with conventional oil for the boat....

Now......how about oil filters? I have been using Napa gold...........Thanks!

John

The Dog House · Post by **The Dog House** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 4:33 pm

I always use Mobil 1 oil filters. High quality and made in the U.S.A. Not familiar with NAPA Gold. Do not use Fram. Fram has been riding on their name for years and is producing junk.

rooferdave · Post by **rooferdave** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 5:35 pm

don't forget the slick 50

akwalker · Post by **akwalker** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 5:58 pm

Stripermann2 wrote:15-40 is what I have been using for years. Shell Rotella mostly.

+1

Commissionpoint · Post by **Commissionpoint** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:22 am

I use either 30W or 40W depending on the season. The 40W is for the hot summer months when its 90 out and running 2 engines gets it well into the triple digits in the engine room.

I don't have anything against multi viscosity products, I just don't use them in the Trojan. I do run 15-40 and 20-50 in my 6 cyl Benz though.