New to the Forum, new to Trojan Boat
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
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- Registered user
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:12 pm
New to the Forum, new to Trojan Boat
Hey all
just wanted to say hi. I am new to the forum and about to become a new to owning a Trojan. I have always admired them from afar and final have the chance to own one.
Looking at all the posts, you guys are great and a wealth of information. Looking forward to interacting with everyone
About to purchase a 1988 10 meter express. In good condition considering her age and past owners lack of TLC, but still in good condition. Engines/generator are in excellent condition (my strong suit). The only issue that bothers me is the radar arch was cut and hinged for what i assume is low clearance bridge use where the boat used to reside. In doing this, they did an alright job, but cracked one side of the arch and repaired it by bolting a piece of angle iron to it. Also noted wet rot in protions of the arch. Fiberglass is not my strong suit but was wondering what something like tis to repair may run as I am taking this into consideration in the offer. Got some quotes, but they range from $2k to $5k, mostly due to hourly rate differecnes in vendors.
Anyway, glad to be on board and part of the community.
Mark
just wanted to say hi. I am new to the forum and about to become a new to owning a Trojan. I have always admired them from afar and final have the chance to own one.
Looking at all the posts, you guys are great and a wealth of information. Looking forward to interacting with everyone
About to purchase a 1988 10 meter express. In good condition considering her age and past owners lack of TLC, but still in good condition. Engines/generator are in excellent condition (my strong suit). The only issue that bothers me is the radar arch was cut and hinged for what i assume is low clearance bridge use where the boat used to reside. In doing this, they did an alright job, but cracked one side of the arch and repaired it by bolting a piece of angle iron to it. Also noted wet rot in protions of the arch. Fiberglass is not my strong suit but was wondering what something like tis to repair may run as I am taking this into consideration in the offer. Got some quotes, but they range from $2k to $5k, mostly due to hourly rate differecnes in vendors.
Anyway, glad to be on board and part of the community.
Mark
- aaronbocknek
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 2080
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:19 am
- Location: baltimore, md (alexandria, va and middle river,md) PARKSIDE MARINA
mazel tov and welcome to 'our home'. you will find this group, unlike any other out there is VERY devoted to our orphaned brand. and you have a wealth of knowledge from 'the international gang' on here. when i'm hanging out with my neighbor, mike kulp, i never tire of hearing how he and his wife lovingly (maybe with a little bit of frustration?) brought their 10 meter mid cabin back to life. everything from redoing the windshield, rebedding the railings, and actually doing the headliner. amazing work they have done on their boat and it shows.
so, welcome. LET THE FUN BEGIN !!!
tri cabin aaron in baltimore
so, welcome. LET THE FUN BEGIN !!!
tri cabin aaron in baltimore
- RWS
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 2857
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:01 am
- Location: West Coast Florida
- Contact:
i redid my arch after hurricane Charley had at it 8 years ago
1. remove arch
2. mark and label all of your wires
3. remove all the vinyl covered bolsters
4. remove all of the wood inside the arch - or what's left of it
5. have two square aluminum tubes bent to fit the inside curve of the arch
6. fiberglass the tubes to the arch and tie them together at the arch base with aluminum flat stock
7. reinatall all the components - your arch will be tighter and more steady than new and there will be no exposed wood up there to ever rot again.
in your case you will have to remove the hinge/angle iron feature and reglass it back together
use marine grade heat shrink tube over marine grade connectors for the rewire
RWS
1. remove arch
2. mark and label all of your wires
3. remove all the vinyl covered bolsters
4. remove all of the wood inside the arch - or what's left of it
5. have two square aluminum tubes bent to fit the inside curve of the arch
6. fiberglass the tubes to the arch and tie them together at the arch base with aluminum flat stock
7. reinatall all the components - your arch will be tighter and more steady than new and there will be no exposed wood up there to ever rot again.
in your case you will have to remove the hinge/angle iron feature and reglass it back together
use marine grade heat shrink tube over marine grade connectors for the rewire
RWS
Last edited by RWS on Wed Oct 03, 2012 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
- Stripermann2
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 3027
- Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:11 am
- Location: Solomon's Island, MD
Welcome. I would use aluminum, as mentioned by RWS (he knows...) for structural support for arch. Iron, untreated, will rust with the slightest moisture and you'll have drip stains everywhere...
Fill us in on your location and update us with pics.
Fill us in on your location and update us with pics.
Jamie
1985 F-32 270 Crusaders
1988 Sea Ray 23 350 Merc.
Trojan. Enjoy the ride...
-I don't wanna hear anyone whine...Anymore!
-You might get there before me, but you still have to wait for me, for the fun to start!
1985 F-32 270 Crusaders
1988 Sea Ray 23 350 Merc.
Trojan. Enjoy the ride...
-I don't wanna hear anyone whine...Anymore!
-You might get there before me, but you still have to wait for me, for the fun to start!
- prowlersfish
- 2025 Gold Support
- Posts: 12725
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 6:56 pm
- Location: Lower Chesapeake Bay ,Va
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- Moderate User
- Posts: 696
- Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:56 am
- Location: Finger Lakes, NY
I'm currently redoing the radar arch on my 10.8 M Express. The original quote was 6 to 7,000 dollars. I decided to do it myself. It's a huge job, which took me several 100 hours. The $6000 was actually pretty good. I recored the top with core-cell in lieu of balsa. I was going to bed in some aluminium for the sides for structural support, but it was getting to be too much to shape it. Instead, I used 3/4 inch plywood soaked for a day in CPES and then bedded it with wests epoxy. Any place the hardware and bolts come through was completely bedded with epoxy. I sanded everything down, primed with awlgrip 545 and topcoated with awlcraft 2000. Glad i did it but it has been a bear of a job. I'm still wetsanding and polishing to finish up.
1991 Trojan International 10.8 Meter Express hull# 003 - 454 Crusaders
1961 Century Raven 22 - Gray Marine 327

http://s1086.photobucket.com/home/Todd_ ... hoff/index
1961 Century Raven 22 - Gray Marine 327

http://s1086.photobucket.com/home/Todd_ ... hoff/index
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- Moderate User
- Posts: 696
- Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:56 am
- Location: Finger Lakes, NY
Double post
1991 Trojan International 10.8 Meter Express hull# 003 - 454 Crusaders
1961 Century Raven 22 - Gray Marine 327

http://s1086.photobucket.com/home/Todd_ ... hoff/index
1961 Century Raven 22 - Gray Marine 327

http://s1086.photobucket.com/home/Todd_ ... hoff/index