This forum is for comments and the exchange of information relating to Trojan Boats and boating. Please do not post used parts or boats For Sale in this area. For general, non-boating topics please use our "General Discussions" section.
Note: Negative or inflammatory postings will not be tolerated.
my teak platform was the wrong one on my F32, I sold it and want to have a oversized fiberglass one made, as big as possible, how big can I go? I dont want drag obviously.
Make sure whatever you decide you have proper support and structure where you mount it. The further out from the transom that the edge of the platform is, the more force will be applied to the mounting when weight/mass (a person for instance) is on the platform. This force will increase exponentially the further the weight is from the edge of the transom. (The fulcrum principal)
You might want to look around bone yards in RI. You may find a platform off another boat that will suit your needs with some slight modifications. Its a way you could potentially save some serious dough if you can find something that will work for you.
1978 F-32 "Eclipse"
Merc 305 SBC's
1.52:1 Borg Warners
1983 Correct Craft
Commander 351 Ford (PCM)
1:1 Borg Warner
There are 350 different varieties of shark, not counting loan or pool.
That's a tough question to answer. There are so many variables involved. Would be nice to have feedback from someone that has already done this and after running and used for a while has been able to determine that the design/size works successfully with no long term side affects.
The bigger you go, the more it will flex so supports will need to be beefier. If big enough, you'll likely need to raise it to keep it out of the water when the hull is at a certain attitude like getting on plane, depends on hieght now. Minimizing flexing is paramount or you will damage the transom. You only have so much transom below the platform for support members. This reduces the attachment point distance from the transom out if you are to keep the supports at a preffered 45 deg. for maximum stability. To keep that attachment point on a platform that extends beyond that, you'd need to mount a support from the transom to the edge as there probably is now but it would have to be strong enough so the end doesn't flex even though the support is a foot or more forward. I've done this (not on a Trojan) with 1/4 inch aluminum H channel, can't remember the width. You'll also want to beef up the mounting surfaces on the transom, I used large 1/4 inch aluminum plates on the outside and the inside as backing, all through-bolted. Finally, you need to consider the added weight on the transom. Before doing anything, ensure the transom core is in good shape. Ask the supplier how much the new unit will weigh. A well built glass platform can get pretty heavy.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
Plasteak -
http://www.plasteak.com/pla ... latforms
is the link i found on another thread. its poly, not glass, should be light weight and comes with ladder and mounting hardware. they have done one for a 10 meter, never a f32 the 10 meter they did a 2.5 foot one...i want to go as big ass possible...
I've used the synthetic stuff on decks and tops of swim platforms but can't comment on using it for platform construction. If you use your platform alot; sit, stand on bare footed, etc. you need to know that this type of product gets very hot in the sun.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
Good question, don't know. Never used the white stuff. Makes sense that it wouldn't be as hot but I think the colour alone isn't the only determining factor in how hot a given material gets. It's physical properties also play a roll in heat absorption and dissipation. I know my real teak platform and decks are much cooler then the plastic stuff even though similar in colour. You can probably Google search the subject and see if you can find someone using the product that has an opinion on the white stuff. Let us know if you find any useful info on whether the white stuff has the same issues with heat.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
take a peak at some of these pics...might help you in some way.
I made this set up for my F25.5, same transom dimensions as the later F26.
Made with a full 96" x 48" x 1" sheet of Densitek (Starboard) - very easy to work with.
The side skirts were the off cuts from the curve of the transom...waste knot want knot!
As for getting up on plane...no problem - the platform is mounted at 9" above the waterline....on plane its way up and out of the water and is not affected (not dragging) by fast hard turns.
Paul - SW Ontario wrote:...Made with a full 96" x 48" x 1" sheet....the platform is mounted at 9" above the waterline....on plane its way up and out of the water and is not affected (not dragging) by fast hard turns....
Good info Paul. What did that cost you, about $500 for the sheet?
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
Paul - SW Ontario wrote:...Made with a full 96" x 48" x 1" sheet....the platform is mounted at 9" above the waterline....on plane its way up and out of the water and is not affected (not dragging) by fast hard turns....
Good info Paul. What did that cost you, about $500 for the sheet?
The sheet cost me $345 taxes included.
The 1" SS tubing were once my original deck railing...again...nothing wasted.
Also sold my original teak platform with the aluminum angle supports for $300, so I did pretty good overall with the pocketbook.