water leaking from manifold

[dfg4240]

I had a problem with the starboard engine water gauge not reading and took care of that luckily.
I checked the water sensor with an ohmeter and it read 680 ohms.
A close examination of the wire where it is crimped to the connector showed that it was broken all the way across and was held just by a small strand of wire insulation.
I cut it and stripped it back and reconnected without the little (O) type connector which I will have to get later.
The temp outside was 86 degrees and inside the boat felt like 100 degrees.
I turned on the air conditioner and fired up the engines and waited to see if the gauges moved.After about 20 min. or more they both moved and then I saw something that made me a little sick.
water was dripping from the exhaust manifold drip by drip.Not a real steady drip but every few seconds. I thought at first it might be humidity from the air conditioner.
I put my hand underneath but felt nothing-no water and then I thought maybe from the engine head?
Then I saw a Squirt-like from a squirt gun come from one of those round indentations on the side of the exhaust.Looked like a few drops under pressure shooting out horizontally.I saw some water on the floor next to the engine.
I have not taken this boat out yet or done anything to it except clean the exterior. Barretts wants to go with me the first time to show me some tips and go through the boat with me.I have only been down here a few times and this boat is big and I never drove a big twin before. I just want to get out once and get the feel of her.
What kind of trouble am I in on this leaking- can I run a sealer through her like they do for head gaskets.
I think if there is a big problem I might bite the bullet and go for closed or fresh water cooling.Expensive and my engines are over 30 yrs old.
Would it be worth it.
dfg4240

[prowlersfish]

Are you sure its not leaking from a plug on the manifold ? If not it sounds like you may need a new manifold .

Can you Post a photo of the leaking area ? a shot while its leaking would be great .

[dfg4240]

Are you sure its not leaking from a plug on the manifold ? If not it sounds like you may need a new manifold .

Can you Post a photo of the leaking area ? a shot while its leaking would be great .

I'm going out tp the boat sometime today and will try to get a pic.
dfg4240

[dfg4240]

here are some pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95552031@N07/?saved=1

there was a chrysler label on top of the manifold and I took it off
you can see it is cracked. the other side is leaking underneath also - Lucky me- but I need a mirror to get a pic.
that is not the worst problem.
I have not taken this boat out yet as the owner here at Barretts said he would like to take me out first and show me tips on the boat and what I should do before taking her out since I never drove a big twin before. I have only been down here a few times mostly to clean the exterior.First he said open the hatches and give a visual inspection-leaks-water etc etc.Hoses.
Check tranny fluid on both engines and then check engine oil.
port engine oil was good but the starboard engine looks like water is in it.
He put me on his work list. He also said I could still run it.
How could the seller run it up here some 160 miles like that and not have anything happen?
I never checked the oil when I got on board in seneca falls and it ran beautiful. I know the oil was ok in buffalo when it left.
It ran three 8 hr days without a problem.
Hey PT Barnum said there was a sucker born every minute and I guess I am on that list.
I don't feel that bad as I only paid 13K for the boat-Now I am thinking-Head Gasket or cracked block?
I have to get a compression checker tomorrow and check her out. Whatever it takes I am going to bring her back to ship shape.
dfg4240

[Paul]

It's possible that the cracked manifold is cracked internally on an exhaust port as well which can allow water to get into the engine oil thru an open exhaust valve when the engine is shut down. It gets into the cylinder thru the open valve and seeps between the piston ring end gaps into the crank case. On the good side, if this is the case it will save you from a head gasket or block replacement. On the bad side, residual water in the cylinder can also cause the engine to hydraulically lock when trying to start it. This could result in bent connecting rods so be careful.

Hope this helps.

[dfg4240]

I can take the manifold off and have a look. I will have to get two manifolds -after I get them off I will pull the plugs and do a compression test and see if I have two low readings between two cylinders.
I hope not- and if I do I hope it is on the port side of the starboard engine..
My dilemma now is do I want to stay with raw water cooling or spend the
money now and go a different way,
What do you think.

[prowlersfish]

I would stay with the raw water at this point in time my self I agree with Pauls post .

[dfg4240]

Thanks Paul and Prowlerfish.
No more starting the engine until I get to the bottom of this. Bent rod is the last thing I want and I can see how that can happen.
I know they have kits for this with all the necessary gaskets that I will have to replace. This is a job I should be able to do by myself right?
I will go down later today and spray some liquid wrench on the bolts and let it set for awhile.I guess staying with raw water cooling is the cheapest way to go right now-just the thought of winterizing-UGH!.
Maybe I can find the kits online -78 marine chrysler 440's. I feel bad for my family who thought we could just jump on the boat and take her out but that is the way it is.
I rented a cottage from Stiver on Seneca lake for the last week in june and the first week in july.
http://stiverssenecamarine.com/5206East ... lusNY.html
Nice place but if the boat isn't ready then I will rent one of those Pontoon boats from him.
He owns a marina down here also.
After I get the manifolds off is there anything else I should look for.
thanks for any help at all.
dfg4240

[dfg4240]

I found one manifold used -ebay canada.
beacon marine $600 new but is that for two or one?
Barr marine $296 gaskets and all
The chrysler marine part number is ---3619770 for just the manifold
dfg4240

[Paul]

You never really know what a used manifold has been thru or how much life it has left in it due to corrosion in the water jackets. If you plan on keeping this boat for a while and have the funds available, I would recommend new manifolds. Besides, any local marine dealer should be able to get them for you in just a few days.

Changing them is fairly straight forward as well. Be sure not to use any sealer or glue on the exhaust port gaskets.

Good luck

[dfg4240]

I ordered the manifolds and gaskets through Barretts marina.
I will post how I am doing
dfg4240

[gordd]

Nice boat dfg . I am going thru same thing with my manifolds. Small leak from end caps . I got them off myself to get cpl broken bolts off .. But lot of rust in water jackets so not sure if worth it putting them back on or ordering new ones . Its pain taking them off so don't want do that to many times

[dfg4240]

I sprayed the bolts and nuts with Liquid wrench and the next day I got the bolts loose on the manfold without any problem.
I couldn't remove the manifold because I didn't bring the box wrenches I needed to separate the Elbow adapter from the manifold unless you maybe separated the elbow?
Is that the easiest way to get it off? I can't get to the boat all the time right now as to many things going on right now.
Barretts Marine ordered me two manifolds but they only sent one so I have to wait anyway. Only thing that looks hard to me would be the starboard side manifold-Hardly any room to work. Did you separate the manifold from the riser at the adapter which attaches right to the manifold and connects to the riser elbow?
I will try to get to the boat tomorrow but have to wait in the morning for a direct TV install if I can get a clear signal from my roof.
dfg4240

[gordd]

I took elbows off due to lack of room to get to stripped bolt . After taking elbows off was able to wiggle myself in underneath and cut head of bolt . I just found it easier.

[dfg4240]

I was lucky today and got the nuts off and found that I had the riser supported to tight and let it sag a little putting it's weight to bear on the adapter.
I gave it a few good whacks on the riser elbow with the heavy rubber covered ball peen hammer and the rised came free from the manifold and guess what.
When I pulled the manifold off the gaskets came right off the manifold like they were new. None sticking to the engine. Now tomorrow I will go for the starboard side of the starboard engine.
This time I am bringing a saw zaw with metal blades and cutting the nuts off.
Barretts told me they don't make manifolds like mine anymore and the newer ones bolt directly to the Elbow-I don't need the adapter-Hooray! I soaked the nuts on the other manifold and hope they come loose as easily as the ones on the port side of the engine. I can't wait to get the son of a guns off. I will take pics of what I have done so far tomorrow. Also the last time they were replaced they rounded off some of the nuts so that is why I am not wasting my time and going right to the saw saw.
dfg4240
thanks for the pics
separating those elbows means you have to have new O rings right?