New 1977 owner needs winterizing help!

dietwrite · Post by **dietwrite** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:03 pm

We just purchased a 1977 25' express cruiser with Chrysler 318. We're wanting to know where all the plugs are to drain the engine, manifolds, etc. We're also planning on refilling the engine with antifreeze...what's the proper procedure for this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Our boat is on a lake in Arkansas....lakes rarely freeze here. Would the heat from the lake itsself be sufficient to keep the engine compartment from freezing?

I know this is probably a very bad idea, but the people we got the boat from had a engine compartment heater and never even winterized the boatt! My fear is that if we lose power at the dock, there would be a high likelihood of the engine block freezing. Any comments?

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:01 am

There are 2 ways to do it . drain all the water and pour antfreeze in it . or your can drain the engine close the seacock pull off the hose and use the raw water pump to pull the antfreeze thru . I would use nontoxic antfreeze ( pink stuff )made for the fresh water system . that way come spring time you can open the seacock start it up and your ready.

as far as using a heater is it CG aproved for the engine room ? a house hold heater won't cut it around gas fumes .

fpawn1 · Post by **fpawn1** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 2:12 pm

I had fittings installed on my intake hoses so I attach a garden hose , close the intake vale, and flush the engine with fresh water.Once done I fill the engine with the pink anti until it starts coming out of exhaust--use defogging oil in the carb and you should be in decent shape

chucka · Post by **chucka** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:41 pm

A few more bits of advice.

1) Change the oil before putting her up for the winter.
2) I add fuel stablizer to the tank and run the engine long enough to get it up to the engine. (I actually add a strong dose of fuel stabilizer into the water separator to make sure it gets into the carb.) In the days before ethanol blended fuel, we used to top off the fuel tank for the winter layup. Due to moisture absorbtion, that is no longer advised. I've been siphoning my tanks as dry as possible after winterizing for the last couple of years with good results (no water at all in the tank or fuel separator).
3) To add the pink antifreeze, open the top of the intake water strainer and pour it right in while the engine is running. It helps to have someone watching the exhaust to know when the full strength anti-freeze is all the way through the engine. (plan on 2 to 3 gallons per engine).

Chuck

Rich Schwochow · Post by **Rich Schwochow** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:54 pm

Buy or build any type of box that will fit over the intakes on the bottom of the hull. Run a piece of 1 1/2" hose from a fitting on the the box, to a fitting installed on the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. Set the bucket on the swim platform.and fill 3/4 full of red pop. Start the engine. When the pink comes out of the exhust. lower the bucket under the exaust to start a recycling effect. Run the engine till the thermostat opens and your up to temperture. Kind of a set it and forget type deal. It's the best way to winterize the COMPLETE system.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:23 pm

Good idea but I think in this case its staying in the water

MattSC · Post by **MattSC** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:25 pm

I would always remove the thermostat before winterizing, that way you have a good flow through everything without waiting for the thermostat to open. Don't forget to use the fogging oil for the carb, though I used to use marvel mystery oil instead.
My marina won't let anyone store a boat with an empty tank, all tanks must be full according to the haul out agreement. I'd check with your marina just in case they have a similar clause in the haul out agreement. So far Ive been lucky, I always keep my tank full with a stabilizer (stabil store and start) and haven't had any water issues. good luck