Engine removal ideas

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:48 pm

hi all it's me again, I have another question I am going to be removing the engine from my 1975 30' trojan with twin 318, I was wondering if anyone has any advice on the best way to remove them. I was planning on renting a backhoe but I figured I would ask here first.
thanks.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:05 pm

Thats a long reach for a backhoe things get bouncy when got the arm stuck out that far . if you do use a backhoe use a come-a-long to lift the engine to the bucket . if you try to lift it off the mounts with arm its going to bounce the backhoe thru the roof . best bet would be to remove the brige and roof and lift it from the side that way the arm won't be streched out . fill the front bucket with as much weigh as you can .

BE CAREFULL

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:22 pm

In the past I have built a wooden A-frame inside the boat and lift with a chain come-a-long. Once it's up' transfer it to the chain that is hanging from the tree next to the boat. works every time. OR.. rent a cherry picker with an extention for the boom.

LandVF36 · Post by **LandVF36** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 11:31 pm

The easiest idea, and most safe idea Ive seen is to contact your local farm / implment dealer's maintenance shop. Most of the larger dealers have a boom truck for changing tires, engines, and have all sorts of rigging. Usually great people to work with. If you schedule a time slot and have a pickup box handy and ready, they can help you pluck it out and set it in your truck bed and help with the reverse when you are ready. Your local marine service co might have one as well.

I've also helped a couple times to break and engine down while on the boat and carry it away in pieces. Manifolds, and heads don't weight to much by themselves. When you get down to the block, it takes a few strong hands to hoist that out but it can be done. On the way back in though, you'll need a boom if its all together.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:33 am

I've used both the backhoe and the boom truck method and have found that although the costs are similar, the boom truck is better suited for the job. With the boom you can go straight in over the engine, drop a cable to it, reel it up then back straight out. With a backhoe, you have to articulate the arm and bucket inside the boat which is more difficult to do and you also have greater chance of damaging something.

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 10:21 am

thanks so much for the info i was also thinking of building an A frame but then i would be stuck in removing it from the boat i dont have a tree i trust to hoist it. maybe the best way will be to rent a boom truck. unless i can or someone else can come up with plans on what to build to remove the i will post pictures maybe that will help.

chucka · Post by **chucka** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:05 pm

I'm with Paul. The boom truck is the right way to go. Ask around locally among boat service people and contractors. A few years ago, when I was getting ready to re-power, I asked a local guy who services moorings if he know someone with a crane to remove my engine. He referred me to a local steel fabricator who was willing to send his boom truck over on a Saturday morning to pick up my engine and place it on a cradle that I had on a trailer. He came back when I was ready and put it back for me when I was ready. It took about an hour and cost $100 each time. The advantage was the operator was an absolute pro. He was able to manuver precisely, which was more important putting it back than getting it out, but assures a safe lift going both ways. Space was really tight in my yard where I store the boat, and the boom truck was really the only way for me.

Taking it apart and removing it piece by piece is really not a very good option. It's possibe, but space to dissasemble manifolds etc. inside the boat is vey tight.

Good Luck,
Chuck

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:50 pm

Dito on the boomtruck! It worked great for me. The operator was a real pro. Every movement was calculated and carefully executed. I think a backhoe would be a bit hairy and no cheaper. Good luck.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:43 pm

Another vote for the boom truck.

A good operator can make the whole event go "like buttah"

RWS

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:11 am

well the boom truck seem to be the way to go thanks for all the help if you can recommend anyone in the southshore mass. please let me know

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:30 am

I looked at your pix and wanted to metion that I have heard concrete blocks are designed to carry a spread out fixed load and are dangerous when supporting a load concentrated in one spot and you should block the boat with wooden blocks only for your safety and that of the vessel.

Also if they aren't, those stands need to be chained together to keep them from getting kicked out if the boat rocks while you're working on it and especially under a strong wind.

RWS

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:53 pm

thanks i will replace them and chain the stands together.

chucka · Post by **chucka** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:49 pm

This is how it's done.

I built a cradle on a pallet to hold the engine while I worked on it and set it on the trailer for my Boston Whaler. I used that to move it into the garage, and picked it off, cradle and all with an engine hoist. A pickup truck will work just as well to move it around.

Try Shaumut Metal Swansea, MA http://www.shawmutmetal.com/contact.htm They might come out your way, especially if they have some other work in your area.

I saw the comment from RWS about the blocks & chains. I agree about the blocks. I used to own a 30 foot fin keel sailboat, that I stored on jackstands. Chains on the stands are absolutely mandatory for tall sailboat stands.

Brownell is the biggest east coast manufacturer of boat stands. From their do's and don'ts page: (emphasis added by me)
Use safety chains on all sailboat stands, chaining pairs together from port to starboard.
http://www.brownellboat.com/stands/dos.htm

The shorter power boat stands are less of an issue with tipping. It won't hurt to chain them together, but I wouldn't worry about it as long as they are on solid ground with something (wood blocks or plywood) beneath them to prevent them from sinking into the ground.

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:14 am

Thanks so much chucka, I will call them I am worried about them being able to do it from the front of the boat only, because I will have to remove the floor of the fly bridge ( not sure what its called ). I have some space behind the boat but its not level or large enough for the truck i think. whats involved in taking the floor / roof of? As far as the stand under the boat they are on 3/4" plywood and they are not very tall is this ok for this size boat they company that delivered it said it was. i will replace the cement block this week to be safe and chain the stands any advice on that.
thanks

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chucka · Post by **chucka** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 12:52 pm

For ideas on hardtop removal enter flybridge removal in the search tool on this forum. you will find some ideas. (click the button to Search for all terms) Most of the posts discuss disconnecting the steering and wiring, lucky - you don't have to deal with that.

Regards,
Chuck