Remote oil filters

[jordan]

I was thinking of putting remote oil filters on my 318's. Mr Gasket sells one that looks good but states not for marine use. Any thoughts why they would not be ok in a boat? I would love to have oil filters in an easy place to change and not risk oil dripping in the bilge.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and comments, Jim

[Big D]

Contact the manufacturer and find out why it's not suitable for marine use. Could be the hardware in the kit. My opinion is that you do some research first about different makes. I looked into this years ago and found that not all kits especially the housings are created equally. My first experience with one was the amount of material left around the port areas after threading was thin enough that it would split when the fitting was tightened enough to prevent leaking. The unit was sent back and the second one did exactly the same thing....garbage. I would personally stay away from the cast aluminum product and go with a billet aluminum one, it's a different manufacturing process that gives you a stronger assembly/product. I would also want to ensure that it is a full flow design, not all of them are. Also ensure that your setup either by installation or filter design doesn't drain back so that the filter and lines don't empty out or you'll starve for oil at startup.

[Paul]

I have a Moroso re-locator kit on mine that I installed in 2001 and have never had a problem nor a leak. I did however upgrade the hoses to braided stainless hydraulic lines from rubber when I installed it. With this type of system, it is important to use a bypass type filter.

It sure is nice not having to be a contortionist to reach the oil filter.

[gitchisum]

Paul -

do you have MC 233 MIE or Chrysler? I want to do this, however it is not easy to find correct kit for 77 MC 233.

Maybe you can save me some research time!

[jordan]

Big D, thanks for the info. What is a full flow design? I was thinking of making a bracket that would bolt on to the bell housing holding the remote filter in that position. The filter would be screwed on with the gasket up. Do you think it would siphon the oil back when the motor is shut off?

Paul, thanks also. What is a by pass filter?

The motors are being sent out to be rebuilt in a week or so, I don't want to risk anything that could damage them when they are back in the boat.

Thanks, Jim

[Paul]

Paul -

do you have MC 233 MIE or Chrysler? I want to do this, however it is not easy to find correct kit for 77 MC 233.

Maybe you can save me some research time!

My engine is a GM block 350 which would be the MIE 260.

[gitchisum]

Thanks Paul!

[Paul]

Big D, thanks for the info. What is a full flow design? I was thinking of making a bracket that would bolt on to the bell housing holding the remote filter in that position. The filter would be screwed on with the gasket up. Do you think it would siphon the oil back when the motor is shut off?

Paul, thanks also. What is a by pass filter?

The motors are being sent out to be rebuilt in a week or so, I don't want to risk anything that could damage them when they are back in the boat.

Thanks, Jim

Jim,
On GM blocks, the oil filter spins onto a bypass assembly which is bolted to the engine block. What this bypass assembly does is it allows a percentage of the oil that is being pumped from the pan to go directly into the system without first being filtered. The reason for this is that at higher RPMs the engine requires a greater volume of oil, so the bypass prevents the filter from restricting this oil flow.

When installing an oil filter relocating kit, the factory bypass must be removed and an adapter is bolted in its place. This is why its important for the filter to have its own internal bypass. These filters also commonly have anti drain back features.

I'm not sure how the factory bypass system works on your Chrysler block but at least now your aware of its importance.

Hope this helps,

Paul

[larryeddington]

I just went through this exercise for my new 318s. Both filters are now remotely mounted on the bottom two bolts at the rear of my inside exhaust manifolds. I made a 1/4 inch aluminum plate that accepts the filter base bolt pattern then bolts to the two bottom two bolts of the exhaust manifold rear cover, Note I have V drives. I used stainless reinforced hose and racing reusable fittings. Cost is spendy about $400 not counting the filter adapters from fram in this case. (I know no one likes fram) but they are very stout aluminum adapters. Coming out of the old filter placement is a snorkel type pipe fitting, I moved it to coming out of the adapter and used the provided pipe nipple in place where the lower adapter will screw in. I am going to boat today and will try and take pics.

[Big D]

Jim,
On GM blocks, the oil filter spins onto a bypass assembly which is bolted to the engine block. What this bypass assembly does is it allows a percentage of the oil that is being pumped from the pan to go directly into the system without first being filtered. The reason for this is that at higher RPMs the engine requires a greater volume of oil, so the bypass prevents the filter from restricting this oil flow.

When installing an oil filter relocating kit, the factory bypass must be removed and an adapter is bolted in its place. This is why its important for the filter to have its own internal bypass. These filters also commonly have anti drain back features.

I'm not sure how the factory bypass system works on your Chrysler block but at least now your aware of its importance.

Hope this helps,

Paul

+1
you want to ensure that the hose ports on the housings, both the one fitted to the engine and the remote, will accomodate large enough fittings to maintain at minimum the same inside diameter for oil flow as that found on the fitting that threads into the filter otherwise you aren't allowing as much flow as possible. When I went through this excersize years ago, there were several on the market where the inside diameters didn't match. This may have changed since but something to keep in mind just in case they are still out there.

Make sure the rebuilders don't have a problem with a remote filter being installed. You may want to consult with them so it doesn't give them a way out or void a warranty should something go wrong.

[jordan]

Thanks everyone, good information!

[larryeddington]

Here the pictures of how mine worked







First and third pics are the Port engine the one that was really hard to change and 2nd pic is the starboard engine. I decided to re route both engines to the inside location that can be reached. On the Port engine I made a padded support to insure the stainless never comes in contact with the starter power lug which was real close as you can see. No comments about fram filters as I have a different set to go on at first oil change.

[Paul]

Looks good Larry

[mikeandanne]

Nice install Larry---that 12 an stuff on there?---cant imagine any sort of issue with that----ran it on the race cars for years---those fittings have good flow--Mike

[larryeddington]

Those fittings are supposed to be the best there is and can be reused. I will tell you they are tough to get on over the braid. I got all of them on except the 180 degree ones, took those two back to my hydraulic hose maker and they got them on for $10.00 per fitting, and they had a tough time of it. I got the others on by clamping hose in vice after insuring all stainless was started in fitting then I used a lead mallet and tapped them on to proper depth, I could not do the same for the 180s whew.

Does add color in the engine bay and I like the bay to look good. Some of our member boats I think you could serve food on them they look so good.