Seacock/Strainer advice do's/don'ts...

[rossjo]

What are you all using for strainers? My F32 was re-powered and has some antique Perkos which I hate.

The port bronze motor intake through-hull is cracked and we're lucky we didn't sink last night (slept on board keeping eye on bilge pumps until morning), so its time to replace it all and upgrade, so I'm looking for some suggestions and do's/don'ts ...

[yorklyn]

Replaced these:

With These:


Cleaned these up, replaced the polycarbonate bowls, orings and hardware and are reusing them (cant find a "pretty" picture of them but they look like new now!)

[AndyF32]

Todd,
Did your old ones fail? I have the same ones on my F32.

[Big D]

I like these:

http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/u ... oduct/103/

If you need elbows, use ones with a larger radius such as these:

http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/u ... oduct/226/

[yorklyn]

No, nothing failed. The strainers were fine. I actually didn't even replace the screen/inserts since they were in great condition. Ill take a picture of them the next time I'm at my shop, they look almost new. Couldnt justify spending a ton on new ones so I ordered rebuild kits and redid them.
As far as the sea cocks, I hated to get rid of the old barrel ones. I actully cleaned and rebulit them but decided to update them so a survey didn't make an issue about them. The old ones were perfectly functional after 27 years.can't imagine getting that life out of the new ones.

[rossjo]

Turns out that the sea-cock (just like the one in Yorklyn's top-most photo) had cracked along the top edge. I don't care for these sea cocks anyway, as they very difficult/impossible to turn with such short arms.

Q: is this 40-year old Sea-Cock part of the thru hull, or does it thread into it?

My thru hull is only a 2 -thru-hull-bolt setup ... not 3 as I expected. Seem to have been fine for 40 years, but again seems like 3 or 4 would be better.

[yorklyn]

The thru hull threads into the sea cock and can be reused with a new sea cock if there in good shape. The old style is only two bolts. If you purchase a new sea cock you will need to fill the old holes and drill new ones. I know you said you don't like the old style but if you you would like a replacement you are more than welcome to one of my old ones as I still have them.

[rossjo]

Todd, I REALLY appreciate the offer (is this a great forum or what?), but think I'll go new style. I cant even turn this sea-cock any more and am afraid to put a wrench on it. I just don't care for that style.

I have a couple of the new style like your 2nd photo on my 26 Chaparral and they seem to work better (do need to turn them periodically to keep them working).

Do any F32 owners know what size pipe thread is the standard F-32 2-bolt (4-1/2" between bolts) thru-hull fitting?

[Dreamweaver]

Did the strainers come stock or are they required ? Mine just has the valves like in the first picture,locked up with broken handles.

[yorklyn]

Heres a link on how to rebuild a strainer
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebu ... a_strainer

You really should have sea strainers . Without them a small piece of debris can ruin your impeller or clog your cooling system. In my opinion it is necessary safety feature.
Although I'm sure everybody knows this I figured I'd mention it anyway. If you have the barrel type seacocks like the one in my picture, you must first loosen the "T" handle before you try to open or close the valve. The bolt that the t handle connects to applies pressure to a bronze disk which in turn compresses the black rubber center causing it to expand and form a seal. When you loosen the t handle the rubber relaxes, water starts leaking and you can turn the main handle . If your valve is sticking, with the boat out of the water, remove the two bolts on either side of the handle and remove the handle and black rubber (its one piece). Mine had a lot of build up on the rubber and inner bronze body. I used a scotchbrite pad and very fine sandpaper to clean the bronze and rags and silicon spray to clean the rubber. I applied a small amount of silicon gell and put it back together.

[rossjo]

Are the old barrel type Coast Guard approved? I know they showed up in my survey (10 years ago), but I never got around to replacing them. I would guess that a large % of these old barrel type sea-cocks are stuck in the open position, providing no protection if a leak developed (broken hose for example).

Gate valves (like the outdoor water spigot on your house) below the waterline are not approved, and the current "standard" is ball valves.

I never close mine, but will close when I leave the boat alone for more than a day once I get new ball valves with nice long stainless steel handles on them. I'll probably setup crash pumps as long as I'm at it ...

[AndyF32]

Rossjo,
Where did yours crack? was it frozen open prior? had maybe someone used excessive force to try to close it? I have them on my 1990 F32 and they were not mentioned in the survey 2 years ago. Both still operate fine and the ones I had on my 1985 were fine also. I did at one point disassemble one on the 85 and just lube the rubber a bit and was fine for years after.

[yorklyn]

I believe it was "recommended" in my last survey to look at updating them. I think it was due to only having two bolts and their age?? the bolts only keep the sea cock from spinning and unscrewing.
I honestly didnt want to switch. for a 27 year old boat to have its original seacocks that were functioning fine is impressive. I have seen newer seacocks that were only a few years old that were completely frozen . since they are basically maintenance free the only thing you can do is replace them.

[rossjo]

Looks like the the bottom of the Sea Cock is cracked where it threads into the Thru-Hull. Hope this flange is on the Sea Cock and not the Thru-Hull. Plan to change int he water by sealing from the outside with my diver.

Anyone have a close-up of the thru-hull and the sea-cock?

Yes - it was frozen open. I really don't care for these type of sea-cocks personally... there's a reason they get "noted" on surveys.

The best thing to keep them from freezing open is to operate them regularly. Simple barnacles can freeze them open.

[yorklyn]

I would not attempt that repair in the water. To replace the seacock the two bolts must be removed and the seacock must then be unscrewed from the thru hull which could break the thru hull loose. Its a very good way to ruin your 2014 boating season! New seacocks will require 3 bolts and you most likely wont be able to reuse the old ones. Depending on the cure time of the new sealants and material used to fill the old bolt holes, the swap could most likely be done in the sling of the travel lift in an hour or so. Good luck with the repair